I've got a 99 Blazer 4x4 and I have read all the post I could find about this particularissue andthe t-bar crank so if I missed this question sorry. My question pertains to trying to even up my truck right know it going to have to stay stock for awhile. Over the last year or so I have noticed my truck sags in the front. I see a lot of stock blazers on the road and my front end is horrably low I compare it to a car. I don't know how far off it really is because I am unsure how to measure. Earlier I crawled underneath after looking at the picts that RCars2 posted and I see the two bolts (with blue marker lines and a number right beside) that he is refering to are right beside the torsion bars they go straight up. Mine are rusted it looks like so I guess friday I will use some WD40 to get them loose them tighten to the right correct. I am guessing 2-3" difference. I know I will probably not get that as my springs are probably to warn maybe somewhat contributing to the sag but anything imo is better than nothing, just looking to make it more even than normal till I can afford the lift kit. How to I measure to see how much the front end has come up?, (ground to frame, ground to fenderwell, top of tire to top of fenderwell) or do I need to do it some other way.

 

Trim Height Inspection Procedure

Z Height
Trim height is a predetermined measurement relating to vehicle ride height. Incorrect trim heights may cause symptoms similar to alignment problems. Check the trim heights when you diagnose steering or vibration complaints.
The Z dimension measurement determines the proper ride height for the front end. The Z dimension is different for RWD vehicles and 4WD or A4WD vehicles. The 4WD and A4WD vehicles have different points of measurement to determine Z height. Use the torsion bar adjusting arm in order to adjust Z height. RWD vehicles have no adjustment and could require replacement of suspension components.

On 4WD and A4WD vehicles, measure Z height from the center line of the pivot bolt (1) down to the lowest inboard edge of the steering knuckle (2).
[IMG]local://upfiles/4800/5E9272371BF84E9988BE198F5FF0DE2F.gif[/IMG]

Trim all curb Z heights at 114.0-128.0mm (4.6-5.0in). To adjust Z height, turn the bolt that contacts the torsion arm as needed. One revolution of the bolt into the nut increases the Z height by 6.0mm (0.2in) (1).
[IMG]local://upfiles/4800/7A8531F9851048FB973879F188801337.gif[/IMG]

Z Height Measurement
Measure the Z height using the following procedure:
[IMG]local://upfiles/4800/33DCE7846DDB485890CA37B3781743A1.gif[/IMG]
Lift the front bumper of the vehicle up around 38mm (1.5in).
Gently remove your hands. Let the vehicle settle by itself.
Repeat the jounce operation two more times for a total of three times.
Measure the Z dimension.
Push the front bumper of the vehicle down about 38mm (1.5in).
Gently remove your hands. Let the vehicle rise by itself.
Repeat the jounce operation two more times for a total of three times.

Important
True trim height is the average of the high and low measurements.

Measure the Z dimension.
Find the average of the high and low measurements. This is the true Z dimension.

 

[sm=sigh.gif]..... don't think I could've made it sound more complicated myself......lol [sm=signs003.gif]

 

Then I have succeeded in my mission.[sm=roll.gif]

 

Easiest way, park the rig on the flatest piece of ground you can find and get out the trusty tape measure. Measure from the ground to the center of the fender-wells, measure the rears first, then crank your torsions to match. If you take your time and bounce the front end between every couple of cranks, you'll end up just fine! I've done this on all my blazers, works good.Tip, if you have access to a half inch impact the job goes way faster!

 

Thanks that what I was looking for. Since I have so much sag how muck will this level it out? If I crank them almost all the way how far could it liftit up? This thing looks off by quite a bit like I said maybe as much as 2"-3" althought it could have been the way I was measuring. My friend says my truck looks similar to a funny car when it is settin'. When I crank the bolts up do I need to put some lock tite on them to keep the vibration from backing them out?

 

You can get about 2-5 inches of lift depending on how far they are already turned and how worn the bars are. Although, the higher you go, the less suspension droop you get. So it rides crazy over bumps if its all the way cranked. No threadlock needed, the immense pressure from the torsions keeps the adjustment bolts in place.

 

Thanks guys I appreciate the info.

 

Just went out and measured the difference, I found that there is exactly 2" of difference from the floor to the edge of the body under the front of the drivers door and same in the rear under the rear door. there is 2" under the frame difference front and rear, also the same 2" between the front and rear fender well so from what I read on hear its about 4 turns to the right. I guess assuming that 2 turns per inch. Also I was reading that a lot of the guys need alignments. Do I need an alignment as I am not really worried about my tires because I am going to change them in 5 - 6 thousand miles anyway? Plus I am only doing this to level my truck not lift at least yet anyway.
I am thinking of like a 30x9.5 tire which will hold me over till I can afford to put a bigger lift and bigger tires.


JUST Completed: T-Bar Crank
About an hour ago I finished my t-bar crank and I couldn't be happier. I gotta tell you I was kinda sceptical at first but it paid off. The total number of cranks - (turns was 5) I'm guessing about 2.5" total. I follow the steps exactly and first I measure found out that it was a 2" difference no matter where it was measured. So I tried 2 turns gave me an inch, ok not enough so after bouncing the front end went 2 more turns 2's turns out somehow I was a little off after bouncing the front again I ended up doing 5 total. I inspected the front end and measured difference in between the tires and the tire to frame on top. Then I took it for a drive and I have to say it was the most comfortable ride I ever had in it. Out on the highway at 65-70 mph I let go and the steering wheel was actually straight even after alignment at a shop it was never this straight I hit a few bumps going on and off overpasses and it never bottomed out and here where I live the overpasses are really rough. With one finger on the wheel just incase a 45 -70 mph the steering wheel never moved and straight as an arrow down the road. The ride is more like a truck now rather than a car no sissy feeling of riding on a wave after hitting a bump. Steering has for some reason tightened up and I got rid of the play in the steering wheel. I am still however by measurement a 1/2 to a full inch off but you can't even tell. When I returned I again checked the alignment the best I could and the tires are straighter and look better than the last time I had it align. I am not all that worried if it is off just a tadas I don't think it will make thatbig off a difference andI did not trim the bumpstops on the control arms as they didn't bottom out, other than that I think as long as no other fixes are need I believe I am content until I have the money to put new tires and a lifton the beast. Thanks Again Guys couldn't have done it with out ya.
P.S. I highly recommend this for anybody with a 4x4 that has a low front just the difference in look and the dramatic improvement I have gained in ride quality it is worth it.