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Measurements for 1997 Chevy Blazer Lift & CalTracs Setup
Hey everyone,
I’m working on my 1997 Chevy Blazer (4x4, 2-door, manual) and planning to do a 2.5” lift with the torsion bars fully cranked (possibly upgrading to heavier-duty torsion bars as well). I’m also looking into running CalTracs traction bars, and since the truck is being lifted they told me the setup would need to be custom-built. They sent over a spec sheet with a bunch of precise measurements that need to be filled out. Before I start scrambling to find dial calipers and measuring everything myself, I figured I’d ask: Has anyone here already done a 2.5” lift + cranked torsion bar setup on a 4x4 2-door and ordered custom CalTracs? If so, do you happen to have the measurements you used, or any tips on what to watch out for? Any insight on fitment, pinion angle changes, axle wrap issues, or things you wish you knew beforehand would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...c557c3e9fa.png https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...fe8cd706d8.png |
2.5" tbar lift? I hope you really like rebuilding your front end fairly often. Might even damage your dif seals/bearing that could lead to having to get a new dif. Much easier to get a body lift, though some don't like those. There is a 2.5" lift that lower the diff that a few on here have used. I'm sure someone will pipe us soon about it as I can't recall the name of it. The rear can be lifted easily with longer shackles. Pretty sure both will cost much less and won't throw the front end all out of geometry.
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AJBert is likely thinking of the Rough Country 2.5" suspension lift. These reposition the front axle to reduce the angle on the CV joints that affect the mechanical joint and boots.
This lift kit also has replacement upper control arms that provide a better angle for the upper ball joint. |
Originally Posted by AJBert
(Post 758737)
2.5" tbar lift? I hope you really like rebuilding your front end fairly often. Might even damage your dif seals/bearing that could lead to having to get a new dif. Much easier to get a body lift, though some don't like those. There is a 2.5" lift that lower the diff that a few on here have used. I'm sure someone will pipe us soon about it as I can't recall the name of it. The rear can be lifted easily with longer shackles. Pretty sure both will cost much less and won't throw the front end all out of geometry.
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That's the plan! I should have worded the original post differently. I prefer the suspension over body lift, my Avalanche was on a 6.5' RC lift and never had any problems and felt great. RIP to that beast though and on to my new project! While you brought up the ball joints and control arms is there one that you prefer to replace the stock ones with other than RC? It does come with the lift, but if there is something that is better quality I will always take a look. I have quote a few plans for the Blazer, so I will definitely listen!
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