Not sure where to put this one BRAKE ROTORS
#1
07-03-2006, 01:23 PM
Not sure where to put this one BRAKE ROTORS
So i've been meaning to do my brakes they're getting really bad, so i was thinking why not change the rotors why i'm there. Here is what i found ebay motors<bR>
I have couple of questions 1 what do you guys think of these? 2 do i need to machine these or anything, ive done brakes 10 times but never had to replace the rotors just wonderin'
I have couple of questions 1 what do you guys think of these? 2 do i need to machine these or anything, ive done brakes 10 times but never had to replace the rotors just wonderin'
#2
07-03-2006, 01:57 PM
RE: Not sure where to put this one BRAKE ROTORS
Personally, I wouldn't put a cross-drilled rotor on any vehicle I own. Most cross-drilled rotors are just that, drilled. They are drilled after the casting process and even though they are chamfered on the outer edges, the inner edges are sharp and lead to stress cracking of the rotor in these areas. Now if they were cast in holes, that is an entirely different story, but I doubt you'll find a rotor for our application with cast in holes. Those rotors have cast in slots and dimples which is good, but do not get the drilled ones if you buy from the link above!
If you want to shed excess out-gassing, get rotors with slots only as they perform the same purpose and don't compromise the integrity of the rotor. Now if you want them for the 'look', by all means, but that's all you are purchasing and you'll have to deal with the rotor later on down the road.
I have heard nothing but good things about PowerSlot rotors, but can not remember where they are sold or if they are available for our application.
Here are some quotes on the subject that I found in my searches...
Take it for what it's worth.
For me, I'm going to stick with a good quality (Raybestos or Bendix) vented rotor and put on a set of Bendix TitaniuMetallic II pads. The TitaniuMetallic II pads were AWESOME on my old '97 RAM. Low dust, quiet, and great, fade-free braking. Not to mention that when I sold the truck, the pads had been on for ~20,000 miles and still looked to have over 50% life left on them. That's sayin' a lot for what I put them through on my 50 mile (1-way) commute into Rochester, NY and back everyday. But it'll be awhile before my Bravada is ready for brakes.
*EDIT* - Moved it to the suspension section - I'm workin' on makin' this the suspension and drivetrain section to include everything from the driveshafts out to the lug nuts.
If you want to shed excess out-gassing, get rotors with slots only as they perform the same purpose and don't compromise the integrity of the rotor. Now if you want them for the 'look', by all means, but that's all you are purchasing and you'll have to deal with the rotor later on down the road.
I have heard nothing but good things about PowerSlot rotors, but can not remember where they are sold or if they are available for our application.
Here are some quotes on the subject that I found in my searches...
Search for the directional ventillated rotors with high density vent fins and high nickel content. The higher density vent fins will cost you more, but you'll never run a cooler rotor. The higher nickel castings resist stress cracks, warpage, and work hardening under braking load. You likely won't find that in any cast Chinesium rotor - you'll have to buy domestic.
Look at what road racers (not the weenie little 2,000 pound cars - real cars) are running and stopping on. Most don't use slotted nor drilled rotors. Any machining reduces the swept area and thus effective braking. NASCAR typically uses a solid faced rotor on their 3,500 pound cars, too, and lots of vent fins. But for some brake intensive courses, they use slotted rotors up front.
Look at what road racers (not the weenie little 2,000 pound cars - real cars) are running and stopping on. Most don't use slotted nor drilled rotors. Any machining reduces the swept area and thus effective braking. NASCAR typically uses a solid faced rotor on their 3,500 pound cars, too, and lots of vent fins. But for some brake intensive courses, they use slotted rotors up front.
Those slots and drilled holes aren't there just for cooling and looks. In fact, they barely help cooling at all. The real reason is braking generates a certain type of gas that can get trapped under the pad and form a barrier between the pad and rotor. This obviously reduces braking power and increases stopping distances. Those holes and slots are there to help evacuate the gas, and as a side effect also offer minimal extra cooling.
For me, I'm going to stick with a good quality (Raybestos or Bendix) vented rotor and put on a set of Bendix TitaniuMetallic II pads. The TitaniuMetallic II pads were AWESOME on my old '97 RAM. Low dust, quiet, and great, fade-free braking. Not to mention that when I sold the truck, the pads had been on for ~20,000 miles and still looked to have over 50% life left on them. That's sayin' a lot for what I put them through on my 50 mile (1-way) commute into Rochester, NY and back everyday. But it'll be awhile before my Bravada is ready for brakes.
*EDIT* - Moved it to the suspension section - I'm workin' on makin' this the suspension and drivetrain section to include everything from the driveshafts out to the lug nuts.
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