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  #11  
Old 02-21-2017, 03:35 PM
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Hey man .. be careful with the sway arm bushings .. mine has 2 different size sway bars for 2000. A 28 mm and a 33.. I guess I got the 33's and the sway bar is a 28 . Wasn't told that the first time .

Originally Posted by Stumpalump View Post
These rigs defiantly have had there share of rear shackle and spring problems. Looking at a thread here, post 149, picture without engine, notice the lack of frame bracing between the motor. The motor is the frame brace between the front suspension. Based only on that photo this could be one of those vehicles that drives all over the road when the motor mounts are broken. IDK but I'm going to look mine over today. https://blazerforum.com/forum/builds...-79095/page15/
 
  #12  
Old 02-21-2017, 07:28 PM
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Thanks man. I was not sure when I ordered so I only have rear links coming for the rear. I scored a smokin craigslist deal on tires yesterday. 4 brand new (date code November 2016) General Grabber AT'2 in 255/70-15. A Mexican used tire shop mounted and balanced them for an even trade on my old tires! A tape measure was used to set the toe. An angle finder placed on a piece of flat steel against the rim verified the camber. I removed the front seat and fixed the lumbar suport today. I swapped the cardboard that I wedged under bottom seat springs for some of that 1/2" foam rubber flooring that looks like big puzzle pieces. Nice firm seat keeps me planted and not swaying around in the seat. Easy seat to work on but you need a large Torx bit for the right rear mount. I think the sagged out bouncy seat with 104k miles was part of the problem.
 
  #13  
Old 02-23-2017, 08:13 AM
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Awesome ! I put the right sway arm bushings on mine .. What a difference! I think the rear needs the same thing .. I have a damn noise in my passenger front wheel only between 35-45 mph.. I guess maybe a hub assembly.
i find out this weekend I suppose ! .

Originally Posted by Stumpalump View Post
Thanks man. I was not sure when I ordered so I only have rear links coming for the rear. I scored a smokin craigslist deal on tires yesterday. 4 brand new (date code November 2016) General Grabber AT'2 in 255/70-15. A Mexican used tire shop mounted and balanced them for an even trade on my old tires! A tape measure was used to set the toe. An angle finder placed on a piece of flat steel against the rim verified the camber. I removed the front seat and fixed the lumbar suport today. I swapped the cardboard that I wedged under bottom seat springs for some of that 1/2" foam rubber flooring that looks like big puzzle pieces. Nice firm seat keeps me planted and not swaying around in the seat. Easy seat to work on but you need a large Torx bit for the right rear mount. I think the sagged out bouncy seat with 104k miles was part of the problem.
 
  #14  
Old 02-23-2017, 03:27 PM
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I read in 2wd, the 3 button transfer cases, the front drive shaft does not spin but on the 4 button it does. I run Porsche 930 CV joints on the buggy and I just peel back the boot and squirt grease in the boot. maybe the CV is the noise?
 
  #15  
Old 02-23-2017, 07:03 PM
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Could be be I suppose .. I've never had them out but they still have napa stickers on them and the boots are still clean and shiny so they are not that old . Yes mine is a 4 button and the driveshaft always turns .

Originally Posted by Stumpalump View Post
I read in 2wd, the 3 button transfer cases, the front drive shaft does not spin but on the 4 button it does. I run Porsche 930 CV joints on the buggy and I just peel back the boot and squirt grease in the boot. maybe the CV is the noise?
 
  #16  
Old 02-28-2017, 02:12 PM
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Did you find the noise? So far I installed idler arm, 255 tires, poly front sway bar bushings and end links, new rear Moog end links, 4 Monroe reflex mono tube shocks and aligned it. It's no longer a death trap but I won't be hucking this thing into turns yet. On the list is rear poly axle mounts and wheel spacers. It should drive well enough then to mod for a little more drivability of the engine. Tune up and fluids then maybe send off the ecm. Do you think an ecm tune will wake it up enough to be worth the few hundred bucks it cost? I'm thinking about cutting 1/3 off of the throttle body diffuser. IDK.
 
  #17  
Old 03-01-2017, 08:25 PM
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The rattle noise at 35-45 has to be the hub .. They just arrived today after I came to work .. I've replaced everything else , ball joints too now . Also before any unnecessary front end work .. like I found out the hard way .. If you have a good solid "thump" or sound like a busted or loose shock or ball joint..check your hood hinges!! I changed shocks and ball joints only to find that when I hit a bump the noise was still there .. read up on the hood hinges on these things ..
 
  #18  
Old 03-01-2017, 09:17 PM
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Sounds like I better grease those hinges before mine wear out. Thanks for the heads up. Worked on mine today. Changed fluids in both differentials, T-case, transmission, power steering and breaks.
 
  #19  
Old 03-01-2017, 10:30 PM
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They sell "spring" washers for the hinges .. Mine is at the inspection station .. We will see I guess !
 
  #20  
Old 03-02-2017, 04:39 PM
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FAILED .. Parking brake and a rusty brake line ( not leaking just rusty ) .. Everything else passed with flying colors.
 

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