2002 4dr 4wd Vibration at ~65-85mph randomly
#1
2002 4dr 4wd Vibration at ~65-85mph randomly
It's a 2002 4dr Blazer 3 button 4x4 149k miles its' got new:
inner and outer tie rods
pitman arm
idler arm
upper and lower ball joints
UCA's modified with the ball joint flipped so the t-bars aren't maxed out with the slight t-bar lift
LCA bushings
shocks
hubs
driver and passenger cv half shafts
the tires are in good shape
it just was aligned (but it isn't 100% right)
it has a 2" rear shackle lift - with air shocks
it was just aligned but there is a bit too much camber and it pulls to the left slightly. this will be fixed shortly i just haven't had time to drive it down there to get it fixed. I am leaning slightly towards this being the cause.
randomly while driving what feels to be the front driver side starts to vibrate but it comes at goes for the most part it seems to occur when the road is curved and on an angle and i'm going above 60mph. that or if the road has a decent drop off angle towards the safety and is going straight, it seems to be worse when the drop off angle goes towards the passenger side. If the ground is near level there is no vibration of any type it drives perfect. The thing is it just goes away as fast as it comes up and i have not been able to reproduce it on a consistent basis. I am of the mindset that if it were a cv shaft out of balance it wouldn't just come and go. I am driving in 2wd the whole time so that rules out the front DS being the cause. I am just looking for opinions while i chase my tail. As I am typing this i am beginning to wonder if it may be the main DS u-joints. vibrations are always hard for me to ID while driving but i do feel like it is for sure the driver side front tire where the vibration originates from.
thanks everyone.
inner and outer tie rods
pitman arm
idler arm
upper and lower ball joints
UCA's modified with the ball joint flipped so the t-bars aren't maxed out with the slight t-bar lift
LCA bushings
shocks
hubs
driver and passenger cv half shafts
the tires are in good shape
it just was aligned (but it isn't 100% right)
it has a 2" rear shackle lift - with air shocks
it was just aligned but there is a bit too much camber and it pulls to the left slightly. this will be fixed shortly i just haven't had time to drive it down there to get it fixed. I am leaning slightly towards this being the cause.
randomly while driving what feels to be the front driver side starts to vibrate but it comes at goes for the most part it seems to occur when the road is curved and on an angle and i'm going above 60mph. that or if the road has a decent drop off angle towards the safety and is going straight, it seems to be worse when the drop off angle goes towards the passenger side. If the ground is near level there is no vibration of any type it drives perfect. The thing is it just goes away as fast as it comes up and i have not been able to reproduce it on a consistent basis. I am of the mindset that if it were a cv shaft out of balance it wouldn't just come and go. I am driving in 2wd the whole time so that rules out the front DS being the cause. I am just looking for opinions while i chase my tail. As I am typing this i am beginning to wonder if it may be the main DS u-joints. vibrations are always hard for me to ID while driving but i do feel like it is for sure the driver side front tire where the vibration originates from.
thanks everyone.
Last edited by cccfabioccc; 01-10-2017 at 11:06 PM.
#3
this is my hope, waiting for my guy to get an alignment. Thing drives so perfect otherwise. My dad said u joints or rear wheel bearings as well. The u joints I would assume all the time vibration especially while coasting and this isn't the case. The Wheel bearings are possible as well but I feel like I would hear them if this is the case and there is no audible grinding.
#4
Couple of thoughts:
The front DS turns when in 2wd if you have the 4 button model, unknown if 3 button model. I recently had to replace the CV joint on the front DS and I very, very seldom use 4wd.
Worn front wheel bearings can be determined in a parking lot where you can drive 5 - 10 mph and make long sweeping left and right curves. The weight transfers to the inside wheel and you might be able to hear the bearing. This also somewhat isolates left and right suspension components and may help you determine if left or right side.
Having a '02 myself, your posting has caught my interest.
The front DS turns when in 2wd if you have the 4 button model, unknown if 3 button model. I recently had to replace the CV joint on the front DS and I very, very seldom use 4wd.
Worn front wheel bearings can be determined in a parking lot where you can drive 5 - 10 mph and make long sweeping left and right curves. The weight transfers to the inside wheel and you might be able to hear the bearing. This also somewhat isolates left and right suspension components and may help you determine if left or right side.
Having a '02 myself, your posting has caught my interest.
#5
Couple of thoughts:
The front DS turns when in 2wd if you have the 4 button model, unknown if 3 button model. I recently had to replace the CV joint on the front DS and I very, very seldom use 4wd.
Worn front wheel bearings can be determined in a parking lot where you can drive 5 - 10 mph and make long sweeping left and right curves. The weight transfers to the inside wheel and you might be able to hear the bearing. This also somewhat isolates left and right suspension components and may help you determine if left or right side.
Having a '02 myself, your posting has caught my interest.
The front DS turns when in 2wd if you have the 4 button model, unknown if 3 button model. I recently had to replace the CV joint on the front DS and I very, very seldom use 4wd.
Worn front wheel bearings can be determined in a parking lot where you can drive 5 - 10 mph and make long sweeping left and right curves. The weight transfers to the inside wheel and you might be able to hear the bearing. This also somewhat isolates left and right suspension components and may help you determine if left or right side.
Having a '02 myself, your posting has caught my interest.
this is what I found
"The NV233/NP233 (3-button switch in the dash) transfer case will have the front drive shaft in float while in 2wd; meaning that it may not turn while driving and you should be able to turn it by hand.
The NV236/NP236 (4-button switch in the dash with auto4wd) transfer case has a preloaded clutch pack which will cause the front driveshaft to still move even while in 2wd. It comes down to what the OP has."
Last edited by cccfabioccc; 01-17-2017 at 12:03 AM.
#8
i need a good alignment shop here in Vegas.
#9
The front driveshaft has a U joint and a CV joint; U joint at differential, CV joint at transfer case.
I doubt that the front DS rotates with a 3 button T-case, easy to test with a piece of tape on DS then move vehicle forward a foot, then see if tape is in different location. Have T-case in 2wd.
I doubt that the front DS rotates with a 3 button T-case, easy to test with a piece of tape on DS then move vehicle forward a foot, then see if tape is in different location. Have T-case in 2wd.
#10
alignment was done at Firestone near aliante and 215 by my buddy that has done all of my alignments i drive all the way there from henderson. i buy the lifetime alignments for $150 so i pay once and never again
the cause was the hub in addition to the vibration being fixed now i picked up 1.5-2 mpg the oem hubs i replaced were bad but i replaced those with 1 bad hub now that both are good it rolls forward when i take my foot of the brake which it had never been able to do in the time i owned it u till now. the alignment is good now and the slop is gone.
the cause was the hub in addition to the vibration being fixed now i picked up 1.5-2 mpg the oem hubs i replaced were bad but i replaced those with 1 bad hub now that both are good it rolls forward when i take my foot of the brake which it had never been able to do in the time i owned it u till now. the alignment is good now and the slop is gone.
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