So, the other day the project has started for good this time.

My 1994 CHEV Blazer S10 4x4 needs a fresh-up on several things and a brush up on the interior and electrical.

As I have a couple things to fix which threaten smooth operation I'll have some first things to be done first in this project.

I own a second Blazer 1994 same model, same engine for parts as it is pretty well rusted and I got it for 2'500 bucks in running conditions.



PROJECT STEPS:

REAR AXLE AND SUSPENSION
Project goals:
- Replace if necessary axle shafts and wheel bearings.
- Replace brake linings with material having higher temp resistance to fading and adjust braking characteristics.
- Prime all moving suspension parts and paint in RAL 4006
- Replace shock absorbers (eventually with adjustable ones to lower the car when run on the street only)

Project status:
JAN 22nd 2010
The axle is down on the scrap Blazer and back from sandblasting. Finally the famous axle number is visible
Axle shafts are out of the differential. I'm no longer looking for a replacement for the worn c-clips. I'll turn them around and re-mount as the wear is minimal. Axle being primed is now waiting for re-assembly.
Pics attached. The U retainers to fix the axle to the springs were the only nightmare. At some point loosening the nuts they simply broke off.
Still looking for information about the axial clearance. According to various sources quite a lot of clearance is normal. But how much???



4x4 SHIFTER MOTOR ENCODER
Project goals:
- Replace faulty encoder motor/switch
STATUS: done!
07 JAN 2011
- Got new part from rockauto.com 2 weeks ago. As I had to do some more work I had this changed in the same time.
Easy as the old one was a repair of mine and therefore the ribs which get in the way when disconnecting were already cut off.
I cut the ribs of the new one off as well (Doorman).
Loosened the bolt on the electrical connector and disconnected it.
Loosened the 3 bolts on the motor/switch assy.
Pull out of transfer case and wiggle forward until it gets out.
Pulled the yellow transport tab from the new assy and checked position of gear vs. motor/switch.
Using a wrench I turned the transfer case to match the motor/switch.
Wiggle new motor in and push flush into transfer case
3 bolts into place and tighten
1 bolt with electrical plug into place and tighten
I Disconnected the battery in order to get rid of the stored fault codes.
Started everything up and checked all the possible switchings at least 10 times.

Time: 30 minutes as all parts were already prepared and there was no need to disconnect any axle shaft or the rotor shaft.



Project status: repaired (2nd time) encoder motor/switch waiting for change


FRONT AXLE AND SUSPENSION
Project goals:
- Replace all rubber supports
- Replace shock absorbers
- Replace brake linings with material with high temp resistance
- Bleed all the brakes
- Figure a way to have an "ON/OFF" switch for the ABS (offroading)

Project status: pending



ENGINE
Project goals:
- Flush whole cooling system
- Flush oil pan
- Have spider properly ported to cyl. heads
- TBI little overhaul (cleaning / gaskets)
- Target is less fuel consumption
- Reprogram injection EEPROM if possible to have fuel cut off upon release of accelerator down to 100 rpm above idle in all conditions (needs further investigation into original programming)

Project status: pending



INTERIOR AND BODY
Project goals:
- Replace front seats with a set of better adjustable seats in canvas and better contoured for body support
- Replace dashboard with custom 3 piece dash based on original one reaching 2" further into interior to have room for A/C and electrical
- Redesign A/C and heating controls and functions
- Add whatever comes to mind into the project on lighting, controls and electronics (GPS - alarm)

Project status: planning - execution

- Front doors. Removed inner linings to fix the splash protection. Added more soundproofing material. Now I can hear all new sounds...
- New stereo. Put a new radio (LG LAC5900RNU) in on which I can use my MP3 in the car as well. Was a nightmare to put in and had to double up. Removed old radio, new front plate made from thin wood then a doubling in front to add 1" in depth. Opening cut through for a ISO/DIN radio frame. Old connectors disassembled and wires soldered to the pins. Wires fixed to the DIN connectors for the radio. Antenna cable needed extension as well. Everything put back in. Works perfectly with our European frequency steps.

 

I have a `93 that looks exactly like that one .. How has this project gone?

 

Well - I actually have 2 CHEV Blazers from 1994
Exactly same model and make and rpo codes.
Only for the colour as one is plain green metallic with black leather interior (my actual ride) and the one in these pics is green metallic with sand trim and sand interior. I use this one as spare parts and part donor for overhauls.

 

I'm actually researching what I want to do to my 1994 Blazer S10 4x4 VINZ engine.

In the process I'v stumbled over this:

Chevy 4.3L 262ci V-6 - Engine Build - Overview - Tech - Hot Rod Magazine

which IMHO is about as bad a 4.3L V6 as it can get. Now for those living in the U.S. where such mods (including carb instead of injection) are still street legal that might be a nice way to come up with some serious horsepower. Back at my place such modifications are not possible - at least not the visible ones - or those you can measure on emission control. So my build will be a bit different as I have to retain the following:

Block - because of the block number - so a V8 swap is a no-go
Valve-covers - because it is the most visible - and they are o.k.
Heads - because there are no other heads for this engine which are much better
TBI - this really is the PITA - i'll try and see if some Edelbrock injection would work but they are all V8.

Well - we are talking appearance at least - it has to look original and should more or less feel original when at the tech exam every two years.

Might be hard to hide the additional 100 or so HP

 

Turbo Charge it.

 

Alrighty.

4.3 vortec heads(true vortec from 96+)
performance intake manifold for 96+ applications as vortec heads have bolt holes going straight down in the center unlike what you have now. (make sure you contain the egr)
swap gearing to some really low gears if you mainly drive city.


for the most part everything will look stock. Paint the manifold black. as long as you still have your emissions stuff you should be ok.

as for the tbi unit. tbichips.com can build you a custom chip (you have a prom chip,your computer isnt really programmable per say) it'll help with the lean mixture with the new heads. You can get a adjustable regulator for tbi too.

 

Please! What I need is what chris015 posts (thanks man that is useful)

Those who want to keep the 4.3L V6 naturally aspirated and still want to get some decent HP out of it may have a very good reason to do so.

V8 swap - "ILLEGAL" at my place - the expert would experience heart trouble immediately.
Supercharger - "ILLEGAL" at my place - even worse when he opens the hood
Turbo conversion - "ILLEGAL" at my place - latest when an accident happens insurance will deny any payment.

The only way you can put that on our streets legally is you take it to the automotive engineering school and test center in Biel and have it dynoed, put it through dynamical handling tests (yes because of the engine swap or more than 10% plus hp), need to have it tested on high speed which rises the question of what tires you can use or you have to limit it at a certain speed, go to dynamic emission testing, go to sound testing in the lab and on the track. Then you go to the department of motor vehicles and apply for an examination. Have it examined in depth where you have to present all the papers from afore mentioned tests. And eventually get your license plate back. What it would cost? Here in Switzerland? Had someone do that about 15 years back and it cost him 60'000CHF which today would be about 75'000$. Maybe you understand now why some people are stuck with the 4.3L V6.

No way you will ever put such an engine back onto the street with a plate on the car.
We are stuck with the 4.3L V6 and I think it is a reasonable question on what can be done to it and keep it street legal do decent MPG on it but still have some good HP and torque output. Besides I think that this engine is largely understimated simply because everybody is going to the V8's instead of tinkering a bit with what you have. And in a CHEV Blazer S10 4x4 from 1994 some 200+ hp are a nice ride

All those who did a V8 swap - how much work was involved?
What was the outcome?
MPG compared to the V6?
Does it really go in that smooth or have you come upon a million of small issues. Such as: "Gee - where shall the radiator ventilators now go?"

So - invitation to all those who have serious experience in engine tuning: Come up with some good ideas about that V6 and we will listen and enjoy trying a few of these ideas.

If time permits I'll go into rebuilding such an engine with my engine shop next year. If possible I'll have it on the dyno before and after a soft street legal tuning and will set it up on my homepage. In the meantime I'm researching parts and pieces to go with which will work on this engine keeping the balancer shaft and the TBI without compromising emission/street legality and stay within reasonable mpg.

So now it's your turn - I need manufacturers, part numbers, own experience reports, advice on:

CRANKSHAFT
Any good suggestions such as - stroker, stronger, better

BLOCK
Any good advice about machining, where the problems of these blocks lie such as cracking, water passages which can be opened for better cooling, tricks about oil passages, what bearings work good on these cranks

OIL PAN/PUMP
Any modifications which work nice such as: dry sump, external oil tank, better oil pump, rebuilding the pump, suction cup stuff, more oil flow etc.

PISTONS/RODS
What pistons work nice on the original heads, information about what valve lift they can accept, where does compression go with various pistons, chamber ccm's, what rods have proven to work on these engines, any parts from the big brother V8 that work and experience with these parts? Which parts need machining the block for clearance which won't? What piston brands are good (now the experience from the V8's kicks in) which do not work or break? Machining tips for the hone? Tips for the piston rings?

LIFTERS/RODS
I want to retain the hydraulic lifters because of less noise, proper adjustment without worries. So - which lifters will work on the V6? Can beefed up ones from the V8 be used and what has to be paid attention to? Which rods will work? Where to buy?

CAMS
What mild cams work? What cams do a great job on V8's by just pushing a bit but keeping it running smoothly in idle? What lift can the stock head take without hitting the pistons? (I know how to figure that but if somebody has done that already it narrows my search for a good cam/rocker combination.) Anybody ever flowed such a head?

HEADS
Do other heads fit on the 1994 VIN(Z) engine? chris015 made a notion about the 1996+ heads. Somebody actually done that? What were the problems? What solutions? What can be done to the original heads? What port jobs work on these heads? Someone ever done a port job and flow benched the heads before and after? What gaskets work and are good quality? Head gaskets that work? How about compression? Up to what compression have these engines been brought? What happened? We run on 95 octane minimum fuel as this is the lowest octane on our side of the Atlantic. I'm not planning on bringing the RPM up by much but rise hp throughout the band. A rise of the hp peak by between 500 - 750 rpm is the aim but 1'000 rpm higher is acceptable if it does increase in the lower band as well.
How about oil passages? Can the cooling be improved? Any weak areas on these heads? Cracking? Good machining tips? Combustion chamber shaping/surfacing?

VALVES/SPRINGS
What is the max diameter for seats and valves without breaking the heads? What do they do? Anybody any experience with similar V8 heads and what works and what won't? Seat angles? Stem diameters? Seat brands that work? Machining tips and tricks? Valve lengths that can be fitted without interfering later on with the rockers/stems? What valve springs to use? The stock ones any good when planning for bigger valves? RPM limits with the stock valve springs? What brands and models work? Machining tips and tricks? Maybe washers needed to reinforce the heads? What valve guides? How long? How much protrusion into the ports? Shaping tips and tricks?

ROCKERS
What lift can be put on the valves? 1.5:1 is stock what more works? Any experience in combination piston/valves/rockers? Which ones are bolt on? Manufacturers? How about roller rockers? Are they better without making a lot of noise? Any mods possible?

This is the kind of questions I like to have answered similar to what chris015 proposes. I'll have my machine shop examine these as well and will start to build the engine in theory now before starting the process. I plan to remove it from the actual car begin of next year and have it dynoed to get figures. Then disassemble and blueprint. Machine it and do some fancy on it as well such as grinding away all ridges and smoothening things out also on the exterior. Then start the rebuild mid next year.
The budget is up to 4'500CHF roughly up to (5'000$) for the engine and some 3'500CHF up to (3'750$) for the transmission.
At my place a crate engine will cost me at least 3'000CHF (3'300$). So I'm going to put some serious money into it because this is the equivalent of buying a new car - and I do not like the new cars, except some which are out of budget such as a nice Mustang GT...

 

Found that my air filter was all ugly and rusted. As it is the first part you see when opening the hood - rework it!

I had a second assy from my parts donor. First step was to strip the color. Then the rust. Worked out the dents and buckles it got over 20 years of use. Had the case powder coated. The interior parts surface treated.

Now waiting for reassembly.

 

I'm putting some money into my Chev s I will need a tow vehicle in the future.
As I own my Blazer since 1994 I'll stick to it. Even by putting a couple 1000$ into it it will still be lots cheaper than a new car.
Plus - It won't drive me crazy with electronic gizmos and automated stuff. Is a t leas double as rugged as more recent SUV's and will make a perfect trailer tower.

Rust has been it's enemy despite having it sprayed with rust protector in the cavities of the fenders and all around. Now the left front fender let go. Had a friend repair it. Then the left front door had to be changed for an incident that crumpled the original one. Got the one out of my parts donor and fixed it into my Chev. The left rear door had a couple dents from other people not paying attention when opening their doors. Repaired that as well.
As for fixing the paint the hood had its color cracked and is looking like an orange. Will have that sanded and repaint it together with the left side. This should fix the paint for the next couple of years.

 

Find the build thread on crankshaftcoalitions wiki page.

I have to find the time to set up my webserver again and publish on my own site. In the meantime the crankshaftcoalition page is the place where I'll tell about the build.

Tear-down of the engine is done. It sits at my place now waiting for hot-tanking.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._balance_shaft