I just take out my 60 Amp "ABS" Fuse from Fuse box in the engine compartment. Then I put a piece of black electrical tape over the "ABS" light on the dash board. ABS brakes SUCK!!! and are dangerous. That way, the brakes work "normally" like they are suppose to, thank you very much!!!
Of course I put fuse back in, and make sure everything working ok before I got to get a new Inspection Sticker, like I did yesterday!!!!

 

Unplugging the battery will not clear all codes.

It will usually clear ECM/PCM codes codes which are Engine/Powertrain Control Module codes. If the fault remains, the light will not re-light, UNTIL CLOSED LOOP - MOTOR WARMS FULLY UP AGAIN.

CCM Central Control Module codes will not clear by dis-connecting.

ABS codes will not clear by unplugging battery. Misrouted spark plug wires can cause ABS codes. The high-energy wires, if near a potential ground, will emit EMI radiation - same as a nuke, and this will cause problems with solid-state sensors, like faulty codes.

DERM Dynamic Energy R??? (can't remember ATM) Module codes will not clear either.

If the problem is REPAIRED, 10 drive cycles with Closed Looop (fully warmed up) will make the code clear / light out. Maybe 20 cycles, or 40... ?

Hub bearing failure has ABOUT '0' to do with ABS fault. DTC diagnostic trouble code SAF (stale air freshener) has more to do with ABS than bearings


Yup. Take Haynes to the 'library' - where the seat has a hole in the middle, and there's a fan in the ceiling. Then:
1) Read a page.
2) Tear page from book.
3) Wipe.
4) Flush.
5) Repeat several times, since it's probably necessary.
... 2a) Crinkle the page between '2', and '3', if you're tender in the hindquarters

 

i believe when bearings go loose, the ringgear and contactor makes difference in distance , so the pulses will be sent wrong.anyway my abs problems solved by replacing loose bearings,sorry for poore explanation and languess. ofcourse there are other options too,there are also shimms at the sender for right clearence