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Brand new battery dead + dome light stays on

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Old 08-30-2011, 12:08 AM
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Default Brand new battery dead + dome light stays on

Sorry if this is in the wrong section, wasn't sure exactly where to post since I have several issues.

I recently bought a 1995-96 blazer from a relative of mine. We put a brand new battery in it about a month ago and I recently got possession of the vehicle. When I first got it, it started up just fine the first few times I started it, later on I tried to start it again and the battery was dead. What would cause my brand new battery to die out so quickly? Also, later on after that happend I went out and noticed my dome light was still on after I turned everything off. Only way to turn it off besides taking the bulb out, was to turn my headlights on the back off. Could it also be a wireing problem? Cause a newly radio was installed too, and I was told the antenna was not hooked up, so I checked and it seemed like it was hooked but I pushed it in to make sure. I got some radio channels to work but later on after that was when I discovered my battery dead.
Any replies will be appriciated... Any questions just ask. Thanks.
 
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Old 08-30-2011, 12:13 AM
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You have a current draw that is draining the battery. A malfunction in the interior lighting circuit resulting in the dome light staying illuminated could definitely cause the symptoms you are experiencing.

To help further, we really need to know what year the truck is... There were minor changes between the 95 & 96 model year affecting some of the wiring inside.
 
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:56 AM
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What brand is the battery? If it is a Bosch Premium Plus (or any Exide battery (As in NOT Autozone, Advance or Walmart (They are Johnson Controls batteries and are pretty good)), that is your problem. I had one fail after only 3 months. For a couple days, it would crank an extra revolution or two on startup and then it went dead and totally disabled the truck from starting at a gas station right when I was about to make a long trip through the Catskill Mountains (no cell service = no AAA = SOL). I strained myself while pushing the truck away from the gas pumps with a fire extinguisher in one hand in case it was a short circuit that could cause a fire. I managed to get voltage back with the jump starter, but it took a while before it had enough to start. I barely got it started, but then as soon as I hit the brake pedal, it died from the surge since the battery didn't hold a charge. Advance brought another battery to me (from a mile away) and put it in. Solved the problem completely and I was able to continue the trip and I only lost an hour. I eventually traded that battery in for a Gold battery so I have the extra amps for the winter.

To add insult to the whole thing, the Bosch battery tested fine on a battery tester even when it had no volts on the dash and the truck not only didn't start, but the alarm kept going off from low voltage and I couldn't even turn the key off or unlock the car with the remote or even open the windows. The truck was totally dead.

Also a couple weeks ago as I was going into Pep Boys, someone else was walking in to exchange a Bosch battery and had the same problem, but it was like 2 years old (warranty is 3years). Lesson learned: Never buy anything from Pep Boys. It is like the Walmart of auto parts. I don't even buy anything from Walmart for my car unless it is a name brand that is exactly the same as something in a parts store, but cheaper.
 

Last edited by ComputerNerdBD; 08-30-2011 at 02:58 AM.
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
You have a current draw that is draining the battery. A malfunction in the interior lighting circuit resulting in the dome light staying illuminated could definitely cause the symptoms you are experiencing.

To help further, we really need to know what year the truck is... There were minor changes between the 95 & 96 model year affecting some of the wiring inside.
I believe it's a 95 according to the title. Seems like it could be something simple though, also for the battery draining so quickly, I was told by a guy at work that it's probably the alternator went bad, but as for the dome light staying on I have no clue. I checked and the little buttons on the side where the door closes are still there. Another thing is it happend after I pushed the antenna connectors together to make sure they were connected as I was told it was not. Or it could be the wireing from when they wired in the new radio... I don't know...

Originally Posted by ComputerNerdBD
What brand is the battery? If it is a Bosch Premium Plus (or any Exide battery (As in NOT Autozone, Advance or Walmart (They are Johnson Controls batteries and are pretty good)), that is your problem. I had one fail after only 3 months. For a couple days, it would crank an extra revolution or two on startup and then it went dead and totally disabled the truck from starting at a gas station right when I was about to make a long trip through the Catskill Mountains (no cell service = no AAA = SOL). I strained myself while pushing the truck away from the gas pumps with a fire extinguisher in one hand in case it was a short circuit that could cause a fire. I managed to get voltage back with the jump starter, but it took a while before it had enough to start. I barely got it started, but then as soon as I hit the brake pedal, it died from the surge since the battery didn't hold a charge. Advance brought another battery to me (from a mile away) and put it in. Solved the problem completely and I was able to continue the trip and I only lost an hour. I eventually traded that battery in for a Gold battery so I have the extra amps for the winter.

To add insult to the whole thing, the Bosch battery tested fine on a battery tester even when it had no volts on the dash and the truck not only didn't start, but the alarm kept going off from low voltage and I couldn't even turn the key off or unlock the car with the remote or even open the windows. The truck was totally dead.

Also a couple weeks ago as I was going into Pep Boys, someone else was walking in to exchange a Bosch battery and had the same problem, but it was like 2 years old (warranty is 3years). Lesson learned: Never buy anything from Pep Boys. It is like the Walmart of auto parts. I don't even buy anything from Walmart for my car unless it is a name brand that is exactly the same as something in a parts store, but cheaper.
Brand of battery says Diamond Batteries... Bought it brand new from a local salvage yard.
 

Last edited by swartlkk; 08-30-2011 at 08:37 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the multi-quote feature to respond to quote multiple people in one post.
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jay1992
I believe it's a 95 according to the title. Seems like it could be something simple though, also for the battery draining so quickly, I was told by a guy at work that it's probably the alternator went bad, but as for the dome light staying on I have no clue. I checked and the little buttons on the side where the door closes are still there. Another thing is it happend after I pushed the antenna connectors together to make sure they were connected as I was told it was not. Or it could be the wireing from when they wired in the new radio... I don't know...


Brand of battery says Diamond Batteries... Bought it brand new from a local salvage yard.
Have your alternator tested at an auto parts store. Mine wasn't showing any signs of failure when I replaced it last year, but when it seemed to have lower voltage, I had it tested and they found a ripple and the machine led the salesperson to suggest replacing it. Since the truck had almost 90k on it at the time, I replaced it. I was told that bad alternators can damage batteries and bad batteries can damage alternators.

Door switches don't need to be visibly damaged to malfunction. Test them with a test light. I don't know about 95, but on the 98, there are also switches in the door handles since not only do the dome lights on mine turn on, but if the alarm it on, pulling the front door handles sets off the alarm (I have an aftermarket alarm that works with the factory remotes, so this may not apply to you).

An antenna connector wouldn't cause a power drain, but if your radio has power after your ignition is off, you might have a miswired RADIO IGN (ignition on, turns on radio with key) and/or RADIO BATT (always on, keeps clock and presets) wire that supplies power to the radio.

Who makes Diamond batteries? Exide or Johnson Controls? It would say on the battery who manufactured or distributed it.
 

Last edited by ComputerNerdBD; 08-30-2011 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:11 AM
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As suggested, having your alternator checked would be a good idea.

As far as the dome light staying on, start with the basics. Is the headlight switch rotated all the way to keep the light on? Is the switch on the light above the rear window in the on position?

The Motorola jack on most aftermarket stereos is a different depth than that on the factory radio. Most require that you purchase an adapter cable. You plug it into your antenna lead, then plug the adapter into your aftermarket stereo.

Just an FYI - An alternator will not fully recharge a battery. If the battery was discharged it will need to be charged with a battery charger. The alternator will put a surface charge on the battery - and you may be able to start the vehicle a couple of times - but after sitting for a while the surface charge will disipate and there won't be enough amperage in the battery to turn the starter motor.
 
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 01BlackBeauty
As suggested, having your alternator checked would be a good idea.

As far as the dome light staying on, start with the basics. Is the headlight switch rotated all the way to keep the light on? Is the switch on the light above the rear window in the on position?

The Motorola jack on most aftermarket stereos is a different depth than that on the factory radio. Most require that you purchase an adapter cable. You plug it into your antenna lead, then plug the adapter into your aftermarket stereo.

Just an FYI - An alternator will not fully recharge a battery. If the battery was discharged it will need to be charged with a battery charger. The alternator will put a surface charge on the battery - and you may be able to start the vehicle a couple of times - but after sitting for a while the surface charge will disipate and there won't be enough amperage in the battery to turn the starter motor.

Never heard this before because it isn't true.
Your charging system will fully charge your battery if they both are healthy. (it takes some time to fully charge a battery in the vehicle) Short trips do not fully charge the battery.

On the antenna cable topic, there are different diameter ends (GM uses a smaller diameter socket and cable end than everyone else) depth is not the issue. Aftermarket radios require the adapter to connect to the Factory antenna cable.
 

Last edited by bromanjr; 08-31-2011 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bromanjr
Never heard this before because it isn't true.
Your charging system will fully charge your battery if they both are healthy. (it takes some time to fully charge a battery in the vehicle) Short trips do not fully charge the battery.
I'm not going to argue the point with you, but with all due respect you are mistaken. An alternator is designed to maintain a battery - not charge a dead battery. Any competent automotive electrician or a course in automotive electronics will validate what I stated. Just because you never heard of it doesn't mean it isn't true.

Originally Posted by bromanjr
On the antenna cable topic, there are different diameter ends (GM uses a smaller diameter socket and cable end than everyone else) depth is not the issue. Aftermarket radios require the adapter to connect to the Factory antenna cable.
That's interesting. On every aftermarket stereo installation I have done on a GM vehicle the factory antenna lead would slide into the jack on the stereo, but would not fully seat. Diameter wasn't the issue - it slid right in - the housing was shorter. Either way, we both agree on the point that an adapter cable is required.
 
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 01BlackBeauty
I'm not going to argue the point with you, but with all due respect you are mistaken. An alternator is designed to maintain a battery - not charge a dead battery. Any competent automotive electrician or a course in automotive electronics will validate what I stated. Just because you never heard of it doesn't mean it isn't true.
....
Dont doubt it a bit... for GM. Normal volt at batt terminals is around 13.8. Read that when I first came on here.
I thought that was low but sure enough, my Brava checked at 13.85. Warmed up the Lumina and checked it.. 13.9 or so.

Thought I was crazy.. having had Fords for lo many years. Nope.. Tbird checked in at 14.1 or so.. so did my Aerostar.
You DO have to check voltage with battery topped up and car at operating temp.

Never had a KMART {BEFORE Sears bought em} or Walmart battery go bad in less than 5 years and I really abused a couple of them.
Caveat: I NEVER buy the low price range battery.. rather the mid-range. Why would anyone that isnt selling the car immediately!
Cant say the same for Diehards.. bought one when they first came out it lasted 4 months. Got another with a car I bought.. it was less than 2 years old when I swapped it at Autozone.

BTW: Make a note: If you buy a car from a budget lot expect to buy a battery soon after. Saw lot guy 'reconditioning' ten of them when I picked up my Brava.. chuckled and made a note in my mind.. sure, enough...
Likewise 'used' batteries from salvage yard aint worth the money
______________________________________________

So bottom line... you ALMOST have it right about surface and deep charge.

wiki Lead acid batteries

I dont like that GM's only charge at 13.85 but dont know of any problems my brothers or dad had with that.
 

Last edited by pettyfog; 08-31-2011 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pettyfog
So bottom line... you ALMOST have it right about surface and deep charge.

wiki Lead acid batteries
Well, I didn't want to get too technical or go into the specifics so that my meaning would be easily understood. Most people can relate to the term 'surface charge' so that is what I labeled it as. Bottom line is the alternator will not completely charge a dead battery. With such low battery voltage the regulator would be in charge mode constantly. The alternator would be beating its brains out trying to keep up with demand, and eventually overheat and possibly fail. The largest demand an alternator is designed for is to 'top off' the battery after the amperage draw from the starter motor. The rest of the time it only needs to meet the requirements of the electrical components in the vehicle. It was never designed to be used as a battery charger.
 


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