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Glove Box Relays ARE NOT THERE?

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Old 07-28-2011, 10:58 PM
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Default Glove Box Relays ARE NOT THERE?

Hello everyone, I have been having an issue in which when I turn on my headlights, I hear buzzing from what seems to be a relay behind the glovebox. After doing some research on here, I decided to pop the relay acess cover off inside the glove box to see the relays. I was very suprised to find that when I popped off the cover, there was a big hole, and a lot of wires wrapped in electrical tape. I saw a pic of what the relays looked like online, and knew that there is obviously a problem.

The only thing I can think of, is that the previous dishonest mechanic that I had, didn't put them back in place when he replaced my heater core a long time ago. They are probably hanging somewhere beneath, they just aren't visible and where they are supposed to be. I just noticed this now so I can't go back and say anything. My question is, is there an easy way to get them back up without taking out the whole dash? I was thinking about removing the whole Black inside storage part of the glove box? What do you guys think?
 

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Old 07-29-2011, 02:45 PM
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You can remove the storage part, or just drop the bottom kick plate. Its 2 or 3 7mm screws, and hopefully you'll be able to see what's going on from below. Just have someone turn the lights on while you have your head under there and see if you can find the source of the problem. Good luck and let us know if you solve the problem.
 
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Old 07-30-2011, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by El_Beautor
You can remove the storage part, or just drop the bottom kick plate. Its 2 or 3 7mm screws, and hopefully you'll be able to see what's going on from below. Just have someone turn the lights on while you have your head under there and see if you can find the source of the problem. Good luck and let us know if you solve the problem.
Thanks for your help. I took apart the glove box, only to find out that the inside storage part does not come out. The only thing that comes off is the inside trim around the glovebox. I did take off the bottom kick plate like you said, and luckily I saw all 3 relays hanging down there. It appears that they tried to hold them in place where they go inside the glovebox with double sided tape. It seems that way because there is like a broken piece of the inside of the glovebox and one of the relays has the tape. I guess they fell down from the heat from the engine and my heater in the winter. I was able to see and feel the large, rectangular one, but the other two squared ones are hard to reach because there is no slack with the wires. I could feel them though. Do you know which relay controls what? And my final question is, can all of the relays be replaced without disconnecting the battery, or should I disconnect the negative terminal? Thanks again.
 
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:44 PM
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Missed that you posted more questions. Hopefully you've solved your problem by now. I'm not certain which relay controls what, but can you tell which relay is buzzing when you turn on your lights? You can disconnect them without disconnecting the battery. If you can figure out which one is buzzing, try replacing that one and see if it solves the problem. If not, you may have a bad ground or corroded terminal somewhere in the circuit. Check the switch, and each of the lights to make sure that the terminals are in good condition. I think, but am not certain, that the light relay uses a ground in the passenger kick panel. You could check those too. Good luck!
 
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:13 PM
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Sorry for not posting what I found. Actually, after I removed the bottom knee panel, all of the relays were just hanging right there. I first replaced the two smaller relays-the fuel pump relay, and horn relay. I CANNOT BELIEVE WHAT A DIFFERENCE THESE RELAYS HAVE MADE. My voltage stays now at about 13.8-14.0, the truck has a lot more noticeable power, my horn sounds louder and stronger, my windows go up faster, and my inerior dome light shuts off quicker after I shut the door. I then replaced the power door lock relay, and also the starter, a/c, and blower motor relays under the hood. I have noticed a big change just by replacing all of them. I always wondered my truck lacked power, and the voltage was not that great. Now I have solved at least some of the problems with my truck. Thanks for all your help. I hope this can help other people too.
 
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by S10Blazer
Sorry for not posting what I found. Actually, after I removed the bottom knee panel, all of the relays were just hanging right there. I first replaced the two smaller relays-the fuel pump relay, and horn relay. I CANNOT BELIEVE WHAT A DIFFERENCE THESE RELAYS HAVE MADE. My voltage stays now at about 13.8-14.0, the truck has a lot more noticeable power, my horn sounds louder and stronger, my windows go up faster, and my inerior dome light shuts off quicker after I shut the door. I then replaced the power door lock relay, and also the starter, a/c, and blower motor relays under the hood. I have noticed a big change just by replacing all of them. I always wondered my truck lacked power, and the voltage was not that great. Now I have solved at least some of the problems with my truck. Thanks for all your help. I hope this can help other people too.
Well, with all that.. how much time did you drop in the 1/4?


 
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by pettyfog
Well, with all that.. how much time did you drop in the 1/4?


Well, idk about that, but I can tell you that now it runs like when it came out of the dealership, and that's all that matters to me. I don't race the truck, I just like to keep it running perfectly fine and the way it should.
 
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:16 PM
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Awesome. I'm glad you figured out what the problem was. Cheers.
 
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