Time to drop the dime
#22
Normally the rotor is removed from the hub and then the spindle is prepped for removal from the upper and lower control arms (ball joints). With the rotor rusted to the hub this wasn't possible (at least on the vehicle) The alternative was to remove the 3 bolts that secure the hub to the spindle and remove the hub and rotor as one unit.
#23
Once removed from the vehicle the hub and rotor assembly was placed on the ground. I supported it evenly with a couple of pieces of 2x3 box steel tubing (left over from a boat trailer project). Next, I alternately applied heat (from a plumbers torch) along with applications of penetrating oil. Then I placed a couple of 1/4" steel plates on the outboard face of the hub and struck them with a large hammer until the rotor dislodged itself from the hub assembly. (sorry no photos)
#24
Before I get back into the removal of the stock spindle I want to say that the way I'm going about it is certainly NOT the only way to accomplish the task. IF you are NOT contemplating replacing your ball joints, you could gain access to the spring in the following manner:
You can place a jack centered under the control arm closer to the inboard end of the control arm in the area between the control arm to frame mounts. Apply just enough tension to control arm to stabilize it and keep the arm located within the mounts while you remove the lower control arm mounting bolts.
Once you have the shock absorber removed (and a length of safety chain installed around the spring to retain it) you can remove the 2 bolts in the lower arm mounts. Then you can SLOWLY and CAREFULLY lower the jack and thus the control arm until the spring tension is released at which point you can remove the safety chain and finally the spring itself.
You can place a jack centered under the control arm closer to the inboard end of the control arm in the area between the control arm to frame mounts. Apply just enough tension to control arm to stabilize it and keep the arm located within the mounts while you remove the lower control arm mounting bolts.
Once you have the shock absorber removed (and a length of safety chain installed around the spring to retain it) you can remove the 2 bolts in the lower arm mounts. Then you can SLOWLY and CAREFULLY lower the jack and thus the control arm until the spring tension is released at which point you can remove the safety chain and finally the spring itself.
#28
Next comes prepping the front shock absorber for removal. (Note: I leave the shock installed until the tension of the spring is relieved, (for me it's and added safety measure,....if something where to go wrong then the spring would still be contained by the shock).
Loosen the upper shock nuts and lower shock mounting bolts.
Loosen the upper shock nuts and lower shock mounting bolts.
#29
Next comes the outter tie rod removal.
Remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut, and using a "pickle fork" (if you are willing to replace the tie rod end due to a torn boot) or a tie rod end puller and disconnect the tie rod and swing it out of the way.
Remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut, and using a "pickle fork" (if you are willing to replace the tie rod end due to a torn boot) or a tie rod end puller and disconnect the tie rod and swing it out of the way.