93 s10 blazer 4.3 4x4 with 271000km on it
i have a brake problum my right caliper is sticking. I took it off and pushed the brake peddle. the caliper came out so I tryed to push it back in. it took alot of work to get it back far enough to put the pads on.And it is still sticking I NEED HELP

 

Time to re-build or replace. The caliper is not very expensive.

Did you open the bleeder valve when trying to compress the caliper?

 

No I did not. does that make much difference?

 

Yeah, replace the caliper. and bleed the entire system. You'll know all the old fluid is out when it becomes clear.

 

Hay 4lowlife, your 400th post!!!! And i just got one more


Yea, Its important to have the bleeder open when pushing the piston back into the caliper. Otherwise you force that pressure back through the system to the master cylinder.

Search the site for specific details on break pad replacement. I am sure there is a post stating all the details of a good break job.

 

One crucial part of any brake change is to clean and lube the slider pins. If the caliper is not allowed to float, then you can still have a sticking caliper feel even after replacing the pads.

I will also add to the point made above. You should not push fluid back into the master cylinder. On ABS systems, this is a MAJOR no-no as the calipers are the lowest point in the system. As a result, all of the crap floating around in the brake systems ends up there. When you force the fluid back into the system, you risk pushing junk back through, causing it to lodge in the ABS pump or back up to the master cylinder where it can damage seals in either place. The ABS pump is $$$ to replace and is generally not servicable. The master cylinder isn't too expensive, but it does require bleeding the entire system after replacement.

Also, with ABS systems, just the reverse flow of fluid through the pump can damage it's internal components. I don't think your '93 has ABS, but just putting the info out there for others.

More specific to your problem, you can buy rebuilt calipers for not a lot of money and just up and replace your sticking caliper if it is the caliper piston causing the problem. While you are at it, thoroughly inspect the rubber brake hoses for cracks or other signs of aging/wear. If any signs are present, replace them now. Check both front soft brake lines as well as the soft line to the rear axle. Now would be the time to replace them if necessary.

Before attempting to break loose the bleeders, give them a shot of penetrating oil once or twice a day for a few days before attempting to loosen them. Bleeders have a tendancy to freeze up and then break off. Then you either have to EZ-out them (or other form of physical removal) or replace the caliper/wheel cylinder. I have the bleeders included in my annual maintenance to ensure that if I ever need to get them loose for any reason, that I won't have to fight with them.

 

just a little more info my blazer has AWAL brakes.
going out this morning to get a caliper. I have a 84 s10 pickup I use for parts.





93blazer4x4
96grand am

 

I will disagree, no need to pop open a bleeder screw when compressing the brakes. You won't screw up the system. If your fluid is that comtanintaed you need to flush it out. If your brakes feel spongy or soft, you may have overheated the fluid during a hard fast stop(s) and have air in the lines, this also needs to be bleed out. Plus that hard fast stop more then likely roasted a rotor or two, and now its warped. A warped rotor will give you a pulsing feel in the peddle and the steering wheel will shimmy side to side while brakeing.

When cleaning those pins, make sure to use only a rag. There is a protective coating on those pins, like a clearcoat. If you remove that protective coat your pins will rust up in no time. Then you will have to do another brake job, all to save a couple bucks on some pins. Most autoparts stores sell new pins, buy them. Well worth the money once you factor in the cost of the other parts.