What I did for the bolts on the tank straps was to reverse them. Maybe your bolts are different, but my bolts were bolt head down and the nut on top. I switched that, I put the bolt in so its hanging down from the frame and then just get the strap hole on it and finger tighten the nut so it holds. Then tighten it with the wrenches. No fussing with trying to get the strap up and slide the bolt threw the frame and get the nut on. I also sprayed my bolts with Liquid Wrench so they didnt get so rusty the next time I have to drop my tank.

 

Ok, I'm pretty good mechanically rebuilt a few engines, replaced rearends, dropped other GM tanks, just first look at the bolts on this, looks like the NUTS are WELDED to the strap... I put some PB Blaster on, I'll put some more on today, then when I try sat, hope I'll have a chance, think I'm gonna replace the bolts though. These are Bolt head on Top, and the tank has been removed at least once.

thanks

 

truck was parked a couple years ago as the son that owned it moved to boston and no longer needed it. they were also haveing a problem where they'd hit a bump and the FP fuse would pop.

Engine turns over nice, changed the oil, I love having the remote behind the driver headlight.

I'll go through this thing back to front.. after I replace the wifes Explorer Transfer Case, thanks "F"

 

Sounds like you have bad wiring back to the pump that results in the pump main +12V power lead to ground out when going over bumps.

 

I'm planning on replacing the main 12v+ wire to the pump from the relay ( i think ) and I will be running a ground direct from the front end, at least to the screw where the FP 12v - terminal attaches.

I replaced the 12V - Battery cable, cleaned up where it attaches to the block, it was pretty nasty. I need to replace the battery as the terminal inside the - battery connection is STRIPPED, thanks PO Mechanic. :-(

 

I just cut the bolts on my tank straps and got new ones that were a little longer to help put it back in. Grinding and making sparks 3 inches from the gastank is kinda scary, just have a firm grip on the tool.

 

i was thinking of doin that, wasnt sure I could get the tool up in there. .. maybe i'll get the tool.. need to get this thing out and running.. just wifes explorer needs a new transfer case, dont know how I'm gonna pay for that either. thanks

 

as suggested I Used a 4.5" Grinder, lots of sparks, only about 5g of fuel even though the gauge read full.. the PO mechanic did a **** poor job.

Fuel Fill Vent - no clamp
Vapor Canister Vent - no Clamp
Top Fuel pump hose connection - not tight
bottom fuel pump connection - not tight
Fuel pump replaced in '07 not used more than 500miles - stopped working

Had to tap side of pump to get working with direct 12v to pump

Going to replace entire unit, had to twist fuel lines off due to rusty connecitons, one o-ring was in bad shape.

Rubber at base of pump VERY VERY GOOSHY and SOFT

Rubber sound insulation deteriorated

 

So, fuel tank is out, Fuel gauge reads full
Gave the engine a few cranks as its been sitting since last crank. Sprayed some Carb Cleaner directly past the throttle plates. Had a friend turn the key AND !!! Nothing. NADA, zilche. - really stinks, now I have to go hunting.

HOPEfully, something easy like a ignition module, or Coil ? I'm hoping.

I think the ECM is still alive, the CE light was On.

When I first met the truck and checked the fuses, I got nothing from the CE light, no 12 code.

I did get a code from the ABS Module about the Brake light switch, need to recheck that code, I forget what it was.

 

the biggest problem with s-10's is lack of maintinance and or mantinance from the neighbor its tedious but start from front and thourughly inspect every thing and i mean everthing make a list of posibilitys fix the free ones then the cheap one and so on adventualy you will overcome and get rid of the ford good luck