How is this done? How much pressure does it need, ect. I am wanting to get a recharge kit from the parts store, and I just want to make sure I do it right, I do not want to over charge it. The Truck is converted to 134a already from the previous owner, the compressor is new, it blows cold, but could blow colder, I know that for sure. Any light on this would be great, I have heard its super easy. so, being that it is 100°, i'm up for that challenge

 

There was a thread about this last week I believe. Someone replied with the amounts etc & it truly sounds like they do HVAC for a living.... just can't remember the post.

Found it, it's for a 2nd gen blazer though & Captain Hook was the uber knowledgeable one.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...eadache-71257/

 

Thanks, I will do some reading!

 

since we are on the subject, I think my fan clutch is going bad. When having the AC on, the temp will go up in the jimmy. I am not sure how to test this, but from reading, I have heard when the car is up to operating temp, and you shut it off, you should not be able to move the fan with your hand, and if you can, it should have some pretty strong resistance. Well, I drove 30 miles in the 100 degree heat, with the AC on, turned the truck off, and went out and spun the fan, and it moved pretty easily, one finger, if I had a better angle, i could have spun it at least a half a time.

 

Yeah sounds like the clutch on the fan is gone. You should only be able to spin it like that when the engine is cold.
The engine temp should go up a bit when the A/C is on because of the extra drag on the belt, gas needed to run it.

 

yeah. it goes one to 2 bars above 200 (half way on the digital gauges) the 2 bars is one bar under the red zone. Looks like i will be replacing the fan clutch. Thanks for all the help!

 

In a nutshell, the fan should spin with relatively little resistance only when the engine is at operating temp. On a cold start up and when engine temp approaches overheat, the clutch should be fully engaged causing a "roar" sound from the fan pulling air through the radiator and condenser.

Here's the full scoop: Learn about how the fan clutch works from howstuffinmycarworks

Edit: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...R%7CGRPCOOLAMS_____

 

Wait, so when the truck is at operating temp, the fan should spin with little resistance? because when I got back from my drive, and it was at about 210-220 (above the 200 operating temp) it was EXTREMELY east to spin. I thought it was the other way around. hmmmm. I will have to check it once it cools down and see how easy it is to spin when the truck is cool.. which will be hard since its so hot out. I was thinking about doing the news paper test too.

 

You have a problem with the clutch. At 210 to 220 the clutch should be partially engaged and take more resistance to turn it. When the engine gets hot, the clutch needs to engage and pull more air through the radiator to cool it down. When the clutch is engaged, it takes more effort to spin it, and it makes that 'roar" sound.

AC is the removal of heat, and the condenser removes heat from the refrigerant. Get yourself a new clutch: radiator, condenser, engine, and AC register outlet temps will all go down.

 

awesome, Thanks! Just what I wanted to hear. Because I know there is no leaks, and it blows cold. Thanks!! Rep points added!