89 s10 blazer tips on changing pads?
Get some wheel bearing/brake grease, a 6" mininum c-clamp, a 13mm ( I think) gm wheel caliper hex socket, and some brake fluid. Grease up the caliper bolts and scrape away any dirt/rust from the holes they travel through for smooth, unsticking brake operation. Also suggested by the chiltons manual is to get a turkey baster to remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir before bottoming the caliper piston, have the reservoir cap sitting at an angle on the reservoir while bottoming the piston so the pressure can equalize and dust wont settle in the brake fluid.
If you find you have pulsing brakes after putting new pads on, you're rotors are warped and need to be replaced or resurfaced. While the pads are off, inspect the caliper piston seal for any leaking brake fluid or other obvious damage.
Oh, and make sure you torque the lug nuts in a star pattern, with a torque wrench. Otherwise you may warp the rotors and cause headaches further on. 73 ft/lbs for steel and 90 for aluminum
If you find you have pulsing brakes after putting new pads on, you're rotors are warped and need to be replaced or resurfaced. While the pads are off, inspect the caliper piston seal for any leaking brake fluid or other obvious damage.
Oh, and make sure you torque the lug nuts in a star pattern, with a torque wrench. Otherwise you may warp the rotors and cause headaches further on. 73 ft/lbs for steel and 90 for aluminum
Last edited by wazzledoozle; Jul 16, 2011 at 07:46 PM.
You never mentioned if your truck was a 4x4 or 2wd. Makes a difference in servicing the wheel bearings. On the 4x4 hubs, they are sealed and no service is required or possible. ProjectIce is right about packing the wheel bearings for a 2wd though. It should be done everytime you replace your brake pads.
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WayneMurray1
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Jan 6, 2012 11:36 AM





