i noticed the same thing between your "Need help!" thread and this one. i belong to two other forums as well, and i've seen it done before.
don't take it personally brother, he's just making it easier for ALL of us to follow and help you out.

 

Sorry. I understand and i am terribly sorry for getting mad. It will not happen again!!

 

It's unfortunate that sometimes members take Staff actions the wrong way, but reading and following the Forum rules usually prevents it.

 

as long as you promise, i don't think anyone will hold it against you, HAHAHAHAHAHA!

 

when you rplaced the fuel pump did u notoce if the tank was dirty or rusty on the inside, if the screen was good enough to reuse then it was probably o.k. but if you had to change the fuel filtertwice in 2 weeks and it was stopped up, I am just wondering were all the crude is coming from.

For the other problems you said the timing mark on the harmonic balancer was bouncing around alot? It may appear to be bouncing around if you have a miss, if you think its running pretty smooth(not missing) I would check all wirring conections coming from the distributor make sure the distributor cap is on straight and is tight not able to wobble, when I replaced mine it was a little on the tricky side to get it on correctly the screw holes werent lining up.( I bought the cheepy one)
anyway rule out a bad or lose wirring conection. If you check all that and it looks ok, and the timing mark is still jumping it may be timming chain or gears that may have worn or broken teeth allowing the timming to jump around. I believe these engines have timing gears and not timing chains.

I think I saw someone tell you to disconect the the wire that took the place of the vacume advance, especially make sure that has a good conection and see if the timing mark is jumping around wile that is disconected, if its steady whilke that is unpluged and still jumps when you hook it back up and it resets, it could be the timming advance and not the timing gears or chain.

 

if you have the shop manual it should tell you how to set the throtle position sensor on the side of the throttle body, its pretty easy to set should be just loosen a screw and adjust up or down, you may need a volt meter you can get pretty cheap at Walmart or parts store.


I hope some of my bableing helps, I used to be a GM mechanic, still a mechanic but in the Army now so I know what to check but dont remember the specifics for these engines.

 

these trucks have timing chains jayjen. maybe you were thinking about a timing belt? as for the cap being hard to line up, it's not because you bought a cheap one, they're just a pain in the ***.

i was the one who told him to disconnect the wire under the heater box inside. you need to do this, just like you would disconnect the vacuum advance on the old cars, otherwise the computer would end up setting the timing in the ATDC (After Top Dead Center) firing, not BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). it seems to be jumping around because the computer is constantly "adjusting" spark in relation to the air/fuel & knock sensor input. that's the "problem" with ECM's, they work so fast, we think they're acting up.

you're right about checking to make sure the electrical connections are clean and tight. especially under the carpet, on the passenger's side, where the disconnet is for the timing, since we all know that no floor mat is gonna keep out the naty s**t from Mother Nature during the Winter.