92 TBI Runs Rich (?) Throws Lean
#11
If (as you said) your exhaust is plugged, that means more than likely the cat is plugged. In order to get true or better reading for & from an 02 sensor & whatever else a plugged exhaust can cause. You have to have the vehicle running as best you can. Like others have said - have it running, in tune or whatever you can do. But a "plugged exhaust" will cause a (word of the day) plethora of issues!
BTW how do you know it's plugged?
Take care of issues you know of & diagnose after that, because fixing one issue may very well cure or lead to better ideas about other issues.
BTW how do you know it's plugged?
Take care of issues you know of & diagnose after that, because fixing one issue may very well cure or lead to better ideas about other issues.
Last edited by Rottidog; 09-24-2012 at 10:41 PM.
#12
@rotti he said he plugged up his exhaist not that his exhaust is plugged. He had a hole before the o2 and he got it plugged. I don't think any parts houses loan a multi meter but you can get one for 10 dollars. You wouldn't need to sand down the timing marks.
#13
Take a flathead screwdriver, scrape out any gunk, wipe it, then take white out and put it on the mark. Some of the balancers have two marks. Make sure piston number one is Top Dead Center when the mark is on, or, if it is out of time, right near zero. That will be your mark. There is a light brown/tan wire underneath the passenger dash that runs side to side. It's a sprague wire that connects distributer to ECU for timing control. UNPLUG that when you time it. It should be ZERO degrees. I would do it when the truck is warmed up too.
#14
My engine is actually surprisingly healthy... if you don't count my lean exhaust issue. For the body being as rough as it is, and 175k on it, you'd expect a lot worse from it. I've never had a breakdown, and i've put 11k on it with minimal maintenance. I did have a blown tire once. But, I should've expected it, I asked walmart to plug a tire.
Fact, I plugged my exhaust, it's not plugged up. And alright. I might ask a couple friends, because I really don't have the spare 10 to buy one. I did replace all plug wires today. I need to check the gapping on the plugs, but I just need the time to do it to pull that off.
Alright, can you explain this in a little more detail for me? Like I said, I'm familiar with Ford. I always thought about advancing the timing on that, (the 5.0 had a timing of about 12 degrees ahead of TDC I think? I wanted to pump it up to 17 degrees, but was recommended little bumps up for my engine. better gas mileage + get and up and go. I never understood how it worked, but time after time I heard about results.)
What I know about it:
There's timing marks on the harmonic balancer. (On Ford, the bottom-most pulley/idler) You want cylinder one to be at whatever degree is stock. (Apparently, in this case, absolute TDC.) On my F150, you turned the distributor after loosening it counter clockwise, I believe? Not much, but a turn none the less. Tightened it back down, and checked the timing.
Procedure much the same? Will I need a timing light, and is the timing light how I know that cylinder one is firing? From what I can logic out, you attach a lead to the cylinder one wire, the light picks up the voltage, the light fires in time with the cylinder. The light from the timing light is used to illuminate the harmonic balancer, which should be showing TDC. There's a little arrowish marker thingy that shows it's actually TDC.
Am I at least on the right track? lol
Take a flathead screwdriver, scrape out any gunk, wipe it, then take white out and put it on the mark. Some of the balancers have two marks. Make sure piston number one is Top Dead Center when the mark is on, or, if it is out of time, right near zero. That will be your mark. There is a light brown/tan wire underneath the passenger dash that runs side to side. It's a sprague wire that connects distributer to ECU for timing control. UNPLUG that when you time it. It should be ZERO degrees. I would do it when the truck is warmed up too.
What I know about it:
There's timing marks on the harmonic balancer. (On Ford, the bottom-most pulley/idler) You want cylinder one to be at whatever degree is stock. (Apparently, in this case, absolute TDC.) On my F150, you turned the distributor after loosening it counter clockwise, I believe? Not much, but a turn none the less. Tightened it back down, and checked the timing.
Procedure much the same? Will I need a timing light, and is the timing light how I know that cylinder one is firing? From what I can logic out, you attach a lead to the cylinder one wire, the light picks up the voltage, the light fires in time with the cylinder. The light from the timing light is used to illuminate the harmonic balancer, which should be showing TDC. There's a little arrowish marker thingy that shows it's actually TDC.
Am I at least on the right track? lol
#15
What I know about it:
There's timing marks on the harmonic balancer. (On Ford, the bottom-most pulley/idler) You want cylinder one to be at whatever degree is stock. (Apparently, in this case, absolute TDC.) On my F150, you turned the distributor after loosening it counter clockwise, I believe? Not much, but a turn none the less. Tightened it back down, and checked the timing.
Procedure much the same? Will I need a timing light, and is the timing light how I know that cylinder one is firing? From what I can logic out, you attach a lead to the cylinder one wire, the light picks up the voltage, the light fires in time with the cylinder. The light from the timing light is used to illuminate the harmonic balancer, which should be showing TDC. There's a little arrowish marker thingy that shows it's actually TDC.
Am I at least on the right track? lol
There's timing marks on the harmonic balancer. (On Ford, the bottom-most pulley/idler) You want cylinder one to be at whatever degree is stock. (Apparently, in this case, absolute TDC.) On my F150, you turned the distributor after loosening it counter clockwise, I believe? Not much, but a turn none the less. Tightened it back down, and checked the timing.
Procedure much the same? Will I need a timing light, and is the timing light how I know that cylinder one is firing? From what I can logic out, you attach a lead to the cylinder one wire, the light picks up the voltage, the light fires in time with the cylinder. The light from the timing light is used to illuminate the harmonic balancer, which should be showing TDC. There's a little arrowish marker thingy that shows it's actually TDC.
Am I at least on the right track? lol
#16
Just pointing this out, if it runs rich and the computer throws a lean code then the o2 is lying. Either the sensor itself of the wiring. If the o2 says extreamly lean then if will max out the rich fuel trim and run rich becasue it thinks it is still lean. Check wires, then change o2. You can try to clean it, make sure the ignition hasnt been turned of for some time before cleaning the o2. If it is heated and you spray something cool on it it's destroyed. I'm pretty sure the o2 has just crapped out.
#18
I've used brake cleaner before and my truck still drives, make sure the o2 heater circuit hasnt been activated any time before you do this. Make sure to clean out the vents that let air in the outer part as well as the part in the exhaust.
#19
Its a zirconia two wire sensor so no heating circuit. I've already suggested the o2. If you don't wana test it just put the old one in. Reset pcm, drive the vehicle for a while to get the monitors to run and see if code is thrown again. If it does; check continuity of the o2 wires back to pcm.
#20
It's a 3 wire, actually. I thought it was a 2, but I was wrong.
Anywho. Update.
I cleaned the o2 sensor, it was actually pretty damn gunked up, but, still throws 44. I'm going to put the old one back in sunday morning, since it's recently cleaned as well, and see if it still does.
I'm still trying to track down a multimeter and timing light, I plan on checking the timing regardless though I'm a bit skeptical, since it's not running like general crap, it's just sucking gas. But, can't hurt. If the old o2 throws the code as well, i'll check continuity as soon as I can get a multimeter.
Anywho. Update.
I cleaned the o2 sensor, it was actually pretty damn gunked up, but, still throws 44. I'm going to put the old one back in sunday morning, since it's recently cleaned as well, and see if it still does.
I'm still trying to track down a multimeter and timing light, I plan on checking the timing regardless though I'm a bit skeptical, since it's not running like general crap, it's just sucking gas. But, can't hurt. If the old o2 throws the code as well, i'll check continuity as soon as I can get a multimeter.