93 Blazer, No start
#1
Just got towed back home a half mile... I bought the truck a week ago and I Did a major tune up on the truck a couple days ago, was running fine. Sometime it would sputter near idle speed, ran fine at higher RPMs, very occasionaly it would stall on me. We just left home and it quit and wouldnt restart, had it towed back home from the side of the highway.
I can hear the fuel pump buzzing, so I think its working. I just changed the fuel filter so its not plugged. I cant smell any fuel leaks under the hood. Has great spark. Has no engine codes, I used my OBD scanner on it while waiting for the tow truck.
Would bad fuel injectors throw a code?
Where are the injectors, I think I have a CPI motor, vin 8th digit is W.
Any advice on what I can check this weekend is greatly appreciated.
I can hear the fuel pump buzzing, so I think its working. I just changed the fuel filter so its not plugged. I cant smell any fuel leaks under the hood. Has great spark. Has no engine codes, I used my OBD scanner on it while waiting for the tow truck.
Would bad fuel injectors throw a code?
Where are the injectors, I think I have a CPI motor, vin 8th digit is W.
Any advice on what I can check this weekend is greatly appreciated.
#2
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: richland washington
Posts: 1

I am having the exact same problem. Just recently replaced the fuel filter after fuel flow issues, and was running fine. Went to start it and it cranks strong but not getting any fuel. Checked the relay fuse, and changed the fuel pump relay. Still nothing. I fear the fuel pump died. Could it be an injector issue? Any help is appreciated.
94 k1500
94 k1500
#3
Well I just tore mine down this afternoon and changed the FPR and the injector for junk yard parts that were cleaner than the ones I took out...
I used my fuel pressure guage and get 55 when the key is turned on, and it stays about the same while trying to start.
I have spark, and I have fuel...
Im afraid I might have flooded the plugs cause we did get it to run by pushing the bleeder on the guage and squirting the overflow gas into the throttlebody. It stayed running so I did it again and it quit and wouldnt go again....
Im going to wait until tomorrow and try starting her again, the battery was getting low today and daylight is gone now.
You may want to buy a pressure guage for fuel injection, or possibly rent on at the parts store before just changing the pump. If you get someone else to turn the key on while you lay down by your gastank, you should be able to hear it priming for a couple seconds. If you dont hear it, then check for pressure while cranking and if its below 55, or none at all then change the pump.
Can you start your truck by pouring a little gas down the throttle? You can also spray carb cleaner into it while cranking and it should fire on that if the gas isnt handy.
I used my fuel pressure guage and get 55 when the key is turned on, and it stays about the same while trying to start.
I have spark, and I have fuel...
Im afraid I might have flooded the plugs cause we did get it to run by pushing the bleeder on the guage and squirting the overflow gas into the throttlebody. It stayed running so I did it again and it quit and wouldnt go again....
Im going to wait until tomorrow and try starting her again, the battery was getting low today and daylight is gone now.
You may want to buy a pressure guage for fuel injection, or possibly rent on at the parts store before just changing the pump. If you get someone else to turn the key on while you lay down by your gastank, you should be able to hear it priming for a couple seconds. If you dont hear it, then check for pressure while cranking and if its below 55, or none at all then change the pump.
Can you start your truck by pouring a little gas down the throttle? You can also spray carb cleaner into it while cranking and it should fire on that if the gas isnt handy.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 845

ohsofly
For a one man job you could use the "Pump Prime Connector" with a fused jumper wire. It's located on the right side of the firewall coming out of the wire loom for the junction block. It'll be obnious since it's the gray wire with a small connector on the end hooked up to nothing. Make sure you have a fused jumper (15 amp fuse recommended) and hook it straight to the battery. It'll run the pump all day. For my jumper I use an on-line fuse with a male crimp type blade terminal with an alligator clip for the battery side. This works much better than just having the pump run for 2 seconds (controlled by PCM through relay). Have youchecked your oil pressure sender? You have 3 wires going to it, Orange, Tan and Gray. Orange is hot at all times(coming from the ECMB fuse). The gray wire on the downstream (?) of the O/P sender feeds into a splice which branches off to the PCM, pump and prime port. If you don't have an electrical path across the O/P sender the fuel pump won't run and obviously the engine won't run either. The 2 second initial pump run is controlled by the PCM through the relay. The relay is used on start up then after 2 seconds or so de-energizes and the pump runs via the O/P sender route. Hope this helps, not confuses. You have to have pressure on the O/P sender to get the pathway. You could disconnect the connector there and jump across the Orange and Gray wire sockets to see if the pump runs then. That would tell you if you sender is no good.
For a one man job you could use the "Pump Prime Connector" with a fused jumper wire. It's located on the right side of the firewall coming out of the wire loom for the junction block. It'll be obnious since it's the gray wire with a small connector on the end hooked up to nothing. Make sure you have a fused jumper (15 amp fuse recommended) and hook it straight to the battery. It'll run the pump all day. For my jumper I use an on-line fuse with a male crimp type blade terminal with an alligator clip for the battery side. This works much better than just having the pump run for 2 seconds (controlled by PCM through relay). Have youchecked your oil pressure sender? You have 3 wires going to it, Orange, Tan and Gray. Orange is hot at all times(coming from the ECMB fuse). The gray wire on the downstream (?) of the O/P sender feeds into a splice which branches off to the PCM, pump and prime port. If you don't have an electrical path across the O/P sender the fuel pump won't run and obviously the engine won't run either. The 2 second initial pump run is controlled by the PCM through the relay. The relay is used on start up then after 2 seconds or so de-energizes and the pump runs via the O/P sender route. Hope this helps, not confuses. You have to have pressure on the O/P sender to get the pathway. You could disconnect the connector there and jump across the Orange and Gray wire sockets to see if the pump runs then. That would tell you if you sender is no good.
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