So my brother rebuilt the engine and I swear if I find who put the stop leak in the system I'm going to kick there ****. However, that is another story

Before we started the rebuild the blazer would just driving along 30 mph and then dies Pull over to the side of the road. Starts right back up. Even better now that it si rebuilt. Engine runs cooler too.

We put in a new nut kit because it needed it. Cleaned all the connectors in the spider fuel injector and checked for leaks. The person I purchased it from said they replaced the spider fuel injector. But I wanted it checked out anyway. They seem to cut corners.

Last year I cleaned the sensor, replaced the coil and change the fuel filter. I also replaced the alternator because one day I was driving down the road. The digital dash flexuated and the vehicle just about died. Since replacement the alternator. Non of that garbage. The alt was bad. Putting alot of ac into the system.

I don't cut corners. For the rebuild. I put in a new pvc, new distrbutor. (old one was rusty and worn out.) New ac delco plugs. New wireless set, cap, rotor. New thermastat. Well you get the picture.

My brother says no stuttering either ecm, fuel injector or coil.

And for the love of heck. No I still don't have a fuel pressure checker but unless I run it into the cab. I drove this thing for 2 weeks now and not a issue. Though it was hot today. But so has been the last couple of days.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

josh

 

i'm thinking along with your brother. However being as it didnt happen before and now with the new stuff it does, it could be the ign control module. Those come with the distributor. If its under warrenty swap it out for the hell of it.

Other than that, see how hot the coil gets.

I wouldnt think the fuel injector itself would just up and stop, but maybe the signal stops becasue the oil sending unit isnt working properly? If the sensor reads 0 it kills the injector signal or something like that.

ECM is kinda last resort unless you have another one to test with. Or know how to test it yourself (as I dont know, lol)

 

Fuel filter?

 

Sorry thought I had that clear. It did do it before.

"Before we started the rebuild the blazer would just driving along 30 mph and then dies Pull over to the side of the road. Starts right back up. Even better now that it si rebuilt. Engine runs cooler too."

Yes we did replace the fuel filter.
No codes or check engine light.

The only other strange thing that happened. Is originally it would have troubl starting back up and you could hear the fuel pump whine. Then one day after is stalled. No more whine. The vehicle would start right back up. Figured there was garbage in the system and that is why we replaced the fuel filter. After that event.

Also the tank is pretty much still on full. It finally ticked down 1 line on the meter. But that never did the difference.

I'm thinking spider injector or something in that area is heating up in the chamber and puking. Why else would it do it on a hot day. But would be nice to have any addiitonal tests before I just go out and order a rebuilt spider.

Thanks,

Josh

 

Any time there's a heat-related issue on these motors (or most any other motor from the 90s onward) I always like to check the ignition control module. Those are very heat-sensitive. If you swap out the one that's on there now be sure you put dielectric grease on it to help with heat transfer.

 

had a check engine light today. Figured o2 sensor. Pulled codes.

got 12
got 13 (o2 sensor. Don't care.)
got 42. (wow wasn't getting that.)

Cleared ecm. Checked to make sure it was just saying 12. It was.

Idled vehicle for 1 minutes (well a few minutes.)

No new 42 code.

So I'll keep a eye on it.

Thanks,

Josh

 

next time it dies see if code 42 re-appears. IF it does then you got your problem

 

I don't know if this is related to my current issue or not. But after my brother redid the engine. Once in a while I get missing. I talked to him about this and he said well yea that happens. I told him it might be the way he has the spark plug wires. When he put the engine back together he only put in the holders that would keep them away from the hot exaust manafold. But when they get up to a certain point. They are all running together. I told him that in my experiance this can create jumping between wires and rough idle. He went to school for this and swears he is correct. I was told other wise. So I have a feeling I'm going out there with some spark plug wire holders. To seperate the wires as best I can. I even handed them to him during the rebuild to make it all nice. But to my disappointment he didn't. He did a bang up job on the rest of the rebuild. Took all my remarks and didn't cut corners. So why this. Well now I'm just ranting. Anything else to check for. As for the missing. It is when I'm stopped at a light. You can count the cylinders. Other times I come to a stop. It is fine. I just seems to does it when it wants to.
Other 50 miles on the rebuild so far.

Thanks,

Josh

 

If the plug wire are arcing together, you can see the sparks in the dark, and you can hear the snapping sound of the arcs.

I would like you to run the engine and reach down behind the alternator in the iddle of the engine and look for the 2 wires that are blue and red that go into the front of the lower intake manifold. Careful of the running fan while you put your hand in there. Not wiggle those 2 wires and push them in and out a little. Does it stall out? If it does the the electrical connector on the injector is worn out.

 

So it died again. But this time I had 1/4 of a tank of gass. I come up to the light and stop. While at the light I hear this horrible noise and when the light turns green. I put my foot on the gas and start the turn. Well at this point the noise just double and Boom the truck died. Put it in park. Started right back up. No noise. This is the first time it died with only 1/4 of gass in the tank. Normally I have a full tank of gass. But since everybody was leaning toward the fuel pump. I decided to run it dry. I pulled the codes and all I got was the o2 code again. I talked about that in the last update. As for the code 42. My brother said they didn't clear the computer after the adjusted the timming during the engine rebuild. So I'm going with it was the fuel pump. From last year you could hear it wine and wine and then after one time it died. No winning. So I think this was the iceing on the cake. Now the other question if yes the fuel pump. yes I need to get a new fuel filter even though I just put one in a few months ago. Do I get the whole thing or just the ac delco pump?

Thanks,

Josh