Allright, shes a top runner now! Took her for a long drive and bagged the snot out of it, no stalling. Hard stops, no stalling. Steep hills, no misfiring and stalling. Idles smooth as diahrea now! Got it into closed loop and no more trouble codes. Beautful.

00BlueGTP my woman wanted me to pass along a big wet cyber-kiss to you for the suggestion. And the rest of you guys that were so helpful too! Thank you so much.

Upon closer inspection of the connector I could see that when you look up into the 2 holes that connect to the injector there is 2 small hairline wires that straddle the injector pins... They are perfectly parallel on the new one, and on my old one the red wire side has one wire thats crooked, that must have been my poor connection.

This thread can hit the graveyard now!

 

Well, she worked fine for me all day, but once my woman took it its just crapping out at speed now randomly and setting off the code 32 only. Its not quitting when stopping or over bumps at least. Just once its good and hot I guess. Biting the bullet and putting a new EGR on tomorrow... And THEN I hope thats the last for this truck for at least a year...

How does this EGR operate? If its only doing it when hot is that when the EGR is open all the way? Is it working the EGR at all when cold? There is 2 parts to it I think, cause there is a little plunger thing on the plemun as well as the main EGR unit, they both seem to feed into the same cavirty. Should I just get them both and to hell with it?

Didnt take long for this 300 dollar truck that wasnt running to turn into a 1000 dollar truck thats almost running. Ah well, Its got a brand new set of BFG A/T skins on it and the brakes and frontend are in great shape.

 

Did you REALLY do the EGR tests I spent over an hour putting down for you? I know you said the EGR seemed OK.
When are you getting the light? Just when it's hot by the sound of it. It appears to only work when it's hot, specifically Engine Coolant Temp above 25*C and Thrott;e Position Sensor position greater than 5%.

 

I did some of them but I dont own a Tech1 scan tool. Im going to ho through the whole list today and do everything that I can twice now that I know you took so much time for me, and thank you for that. I guess when you say to have the valve open to 25% I could use a poker to open the plunger to approx 25% myself that way huh? I just have a $400 OBD 1&2 code reader. It doesnt do very much when hooked up to GM products besides read the codes, and it wont read transmission or ABS codes which sucks. It does allow alot of stuff when hooked to Fords though, KOER and KOEO tests, cylinder balance, and sensor tests.. I have the Innova OBD1&2 tool, my family got it for me last fathers day.

 

Ease up on yourself. Yes it did take me that long but other people seem to have EGR problems too. Can you get a cable for your scanner so it'll do GMs? I probably wouldn.t worry too much about hitting 25% on the money. It goes on to say that if you don't have the 25% then you have a problem (which you already know you do). I think the diagnostic tests are pretty telltale in that you check resistance stationary and also while moving the pintle. The rest of the stuff is pretty straightforward using a meter and test light. Stay in touch. You could almost be there.

 

Oh I can hook mine up to GMs for sure, its got connectors for most vehicles before OBD 2... It just doesnt allow me to do much with a GM except read the codes. My tool is the Innova OBD 1&2 tool withough ABS abilities (Grrr SHE bought it for me though)

Im about to go out and tackle this job right now, Ill check back in later and thanks again you guys for all the help. I have another EGR valve to install if I fail these tests.

If my tests all pass is it possible for there to be a clog under my intake manifold?

 

OK, tested my EGR, terminal A to E gives me a 10.8 ohms...
Test new EGR valve I get 8.5 ohms. Replaced EGR valve.

I did this test with the EGR valves out of the truck and sitting on my front steps. I noticed that my old EGR sticks in when I push the plunger all the way, and the new one wont stick at all it goes from 100% to 0 and back smoothly.

So I suppose the EGR opens all the way when the motor is at operating temperature and in closed loop operation. Then sometime its supposed to close, and my old one stayed open and stalled the truck. Then when I restart it its closed again and the problem doesnt occur again until the EGR wants to be open all the way.

Going out for the test drive in a few minutes once it warms up all the way.

GOD I HOPE THIS IS FINALLY IT!!!

EDIT : Woman took it for a drive for a long time, and its all good now. I also googled EGR valves and understand now why it was stalling. Obviously my woman drives it harder than I do, cause I dont get the cylinder temp up high enough ever to get the EGR to open all the way and stick open, so it wouldnt really stall on me ever, but would on her after 10 minutes of driving. Its funny cause she cant figure out why I can go 600km on a tank and she gets 350-400... LOL... Nailing the gas off lights really does use alot of fuel.

I love this site!

 

Congratulations! Maybe you need to get the EGR valve on a regular cleaning program if it's driven like you say. You change the oil on a regular basis, right? It might need it. Now you can get your other stuff going. Or maybe just take a break for a day or two.

 

Oh yeah, Im an Amsoil guy. Its got fresh oil in it now. Had black sludge when I picked it up, had to change it again after the fuel leak. I will totally check the EGR once a year now. I also got one of those screen gaskets for it I heard you all talking about on here.

No rest for the wicked. Ive gotta get the transmission out of my explorer and see whats making the squealing when we start it or rev it in neutral. I got down under it with my stethoscope and its definatley coming from the bell housing. Starter is working fine but that sound is horrendous. I am 95% sure I have a broken flexplate in there. It vibrates at idle pretty bad too and goes away when its revved a little. Rev it alot and it screams at you again. Ive had it listed as is for 1000 with no bites, so I gotta fix it and see if I can get 2500 for it. Its in great shape, just gotta fix that squeal and install the radius arm bushings I bought a year ago and put off cause they are a bugger to do.

I also just bought her a 99 Cougar for 1200 that needs some work so i can have the blazer to myself to mod the crap out of, I would really like to grab a 5.7 for it from the wreckers. Cougar has 130,000km No working taillights, headlights quit working, check engine light is on (O2 sensor circuit and rich on both banks) and has a vibration from a bent front wheel. Im sure it will be cake except for the wiring headaches. Its loaded, runs awesome and came with a whole box of parts for it. O2 sensors, plugs, wires, filters, oil, etc... If anything I could sell it once fixed for 5Gs I think and get a couple more projects with. They are pretty rare around here.

Ive gotta change the exhaust manifold gaskets and 2 broken studs on my womans sisters 2000 durango 4.7 v8 this week too, thats going to be a hell of a job too. Finally will get to try that stud extractor or easy outs I bought years ago and have never used.

Think Im going to sell my Toyota 4runner for parts ($500) cause I cant find one to take the body parts off of to fix the areas where it got hit a month ago and my body is in terrible shape... Maybe I can find a nice one someday that has a blown motor...? Wishfull thinking. Its too bad, i really wanted that truck to see 1 million kms. I might just keep it and use it for a camping bush beater if I can get a trailer to haul it and camping gear on. Think my blazer should be pulling that much weight into the mountains??? I might also try and make some kind of a 4wd buggy thing with it, I have alot of land out here to park it on so its not going to hurt anyone sitting around out here. Or maybe my daughter can learn to 4x4 with it and we can wreck it in the hills behind my place, shes 10 now and would probably love the chance to drive. She helps me with all the repairs and is getting to know quite a bit. Im gonna make a mechanic out of her and shell have the coolest fastest car in high school.

 

glad my suggestion helped you out. It didn't seem to fix my problem though. I wonder if my problem is with the egr valve to. But see I have a block off plate on the inside of mine so its not doing anything. But I wonder if the ecu is changing the fuel mixture when it is comanding the egr open. Does anyone know if it will change the fuel mixture when doing this and thats what could be screwing with my idle?