I think it's been mentioned elsewhere that you can damage your engine if you leave the EGR valve blocked off. The engine was designed to run with it. You can find out if something is wrong with the valve following the troubleshooting procedure posted above. There is also a diagnostic check you do that's not there but is in a earlier posting. Also if you pull the valve check the cavity. Carbon builds up there pretty bad over time.

 

Well I only blocked it off to see if thats why I loose power brakes. I still seem to loose them. I just didn't want to spend money on one if that wasnt going to fix it. I have spent thousands on this old POS already. here is what I found today. well i replaced the harness going to the injector, and still no good. It still idles rough when on hills mostly. I am almost posative it isn't a vac leak. I then went on to checking the fuel pressure. It goes to 60 with key on then flies right back to 0 instantly. I took off that valve on the top of the plenum to be sure it wasnt anyhting leaking in there and it isn't soo it has to be the fuel pump. Even though it has been replaced recently. Well I guess I am going to be pulling the bed off tomorrow once again. What a pain in the ***. At idle the pressure is about 52psi wich I think is kind of low. When I nail the throttle it goes up a little and then starts to flutter like crazy. What does this mean and could it cause this rough idle? Also I forgot to mention that whenit has more gas in the tank it runs better. I checked vaccum at idle its at 18-19 inches at idle. I also removed the cat today an that didn't help anyting either.

 

You should remove that blocking plate from the EGR valve, and do the test on it when its out. Just set your multimeter to 20K (? the smallest range) ohms range, and touch the A and E pins on the EGR where the plug goes. If its over 8.6 like gimpy says, then its toast. Mine was 10.something... I had a little crud in the cavity that came out easy with combustion chamber cleaner to break it up. Make sure your EGR plunger doesnt stick down too. Then buy that little screen gasket for 5 bucks and reinstall it all and call us in the morning!

You should also pull the tippets back from the holes on the spider and turn the key on, if they are leaking on you then you wont see the puddles in the plenum cause they fire the gas right into the intake runners. But with them pulled out you will get huge puddles if they are leaking on you. Since you are going to have the upper plenum off anyways to take the EGR off.

 

I dont take the plenum off too take off the egr. I use a ratchet wrench on the left bolt and a quarter inch ratchet with an extension and swivel on the right one. But I will and check them too see if they are leaking.

 

Oh snap, you must not have AC then, I have AC and I have tried and tried and I just cant fit the EGR out of that little space cause the AC bracket is in the way, if it was 1/4 inch smaller I could... I have to pull my plenum to get it out of mine, not pull it, but remove the 10 bolts so I can lift it a little on the front side... But Ive had that plenum off so many times this last while I can do it blindfolded in 3 minutes with a speed ratchet and a deep 10MM.

 

00bluegtp
If your fuel pressure acts like you said it does you probably have a bad fuel pressure regulator. It shoild hold almost as much pressure as you initially put on it. It's leaking through it. Do you know where your pump prime port (actually an electrical wire) is?
I pull my EGR valve off without taking the plenum loose and I have A/C. It is tight though.

 

Hmm. But it has a new cpi on it too with the fpr. I pulled the valve off and there is some puddling on the left side but nothing crazy. I had my old man turn the key on so the pump would prime and I was watching in the plenum through that valve and I dont see it spraying out anywhere but th pressure still drops right off real fast. Shouldn't I see it spraying out if it were the fpr?

 

When you replaced the spider (w/ fpr), did you also replace the internal fuel lines?

I would remove the upper plenum and really take a look around things for leaks.

 

yes it has new internal fuel lines (nut kit). Well what I am going to o first is take the pressure line off the back of the lower intake and hook it directly up to my fuel guage soo I can determine wether its the pump itself or somthing under the plenum.

 

There is a test you can do on the FPR. You need to hook a FUSED jumper from the battery to the pump prime port and note the pressure. Then slowly pinch off the return line hose (underneath the truck) while someone watches the gauge. If it keeps rising past (probably) 65 or so psi the regulator isn't doing ot's job. Do not let the pressure exceed 75 psi or the regulator can be damaged. To make the jumper I used an in-line fuse holder with a 15 amp fuse and made an extension with an aligator ckio on one end and a male blade terminal on the other. The male terminal will go into the pump prime port connector and run your pump continioisly until the battey is flat if you want. If you don't know where the prime port is, it's a (should be) Gray wire coming out of the loom adjacent to the junction block on the right side of the firewall. It hss a single connector that has nothing attached to it.