Hello,
New member, 1st time poster....

Any one know where I can get a labeled diagram ( PDF or photo) of the fuel tank, fuel pump, and associated harnesses ? I have to replace a fuel pump and harness on a friends 94' S10/Blazer and I want to make sure all I have to do is drain it, remove the bracket and straps, associated harnesses, hoses and replace. ( Its a 4.3L I am not sur eif its 4x4 or not yet havent laid eyes on it.)

Any one know of any special surprises in store for me wit this thing ?

Supposedly Midas told him the harness was bad behind a fender in the rear ? I said " Dude I think they are full' o chit". Said $900 plus for the harness and pump plus labor. Again I said " Dude I think they are full o'chit !"
The only harness I think they could be possibly talking about other then the main on the dog house would be the removable secondary harness that some times corrodes and goes bad that connects the pump to the harness at the frame rail. (Think its about 1 foot and a half or so in length maybe ?)
SO I offered to look in to it and do it for him if it was within my scope.
Most things automotive are well with in my scope and capability but I want to make there are no hidden monsters so I can get to it and get it done fast.

Thank you !

Duane

 

You should be able to view that diagram online at autozone.com -you'll have to register, but it is free.

I just did this a few weeks ago on my '93 Bravada. It ain't fun, but I would think it's within your ability. I did it in my gravel driveway by myself. Took me dang near all day, but I got it done.

Yes, 4 bolts on the lower straps (they can be a PITA, so have a lot of PB Blaster and a long bar - or pneumatic impact wrench - available). Have a jack with a block on it available. You'll lower the tank enough to get your hands in there, detach the hoses (2 flares, 2 hose clamps) and wiring harness - plus the ground on the frame rail, then lower the rest of the way. Oh, plus the filler hose, so another hose clamp. You might be able to get at all those hoses from the driver's side rear wheel well. Jack it up, remove that wheel, and see what you can reach.

It is a lot easier if you have drained the tank first, either with a siphon or by disconnecting the fuel line at the filter and using the pump to pump it into a container.

For the lock ring on the pump, use a brass drift if available or a screwdriver that you've wrapped the tip with electrical tape and be gentle. A few taps here, a few taps there and you'll get it loose. Definitely clean the tank around the lock ring before you loosen and remove it so gunk doesn't get into the tank.

Last recommendation: get a GM/Delphi/Delco pump. Don't get an Airtex unless you want to do this again soon.

 

i just did mine but i did mine at school where we have lifts now im waiting to get some money together to buy a new pump whats wrong with the airtex?

 

Airtex pumps in this application don't make it through the warranty period. It's not worth the cost savings if you have to do it again...and again...

 

ok thank you i was gunna order a delphi off parts geek but didnt want to wait for it to be shipped so i was gunna but a airtex from auto zone im gunna go with the delphi

 

I just replaced my tank,fuel lines and sending unit yestarday, if your bumper is off you will see the pump and sending unit ground on the middle of the cross member under the tail gate and the plug in for it also then just losen the bolts on the cross member and bend the straps down and the tank slides down alittle to disconnect everything else without holding the tank up