Ok so a couple months ago I bought a 1994 S-10 Blazer Tahoe. There a a few problems which I would like to fix and get it closer to new condition. I've read the articles and don't know exactly which ones would be the fix to my problems.

1st: The heater works but just barely and it won't change mode. It has been cold around here 15-20F degree range but after a minute warm up and a 20 mile drive the engine just barely gets to 125F (digital cluster) and the heat coming out of a couple vents is maybe 50F. I drove 100 miles in it and the temp finally got to 150 in the engine and 60F in the cabin. What could I do to fix these problems with the heater?

2nd. The drivers side door is sagging and creating wind noise above 40 mph. Also, the handles spring seems to be going out and won't return the handle to it's position. I can wiggle the door up and down and look at the hinges and it looks like the pin is worn away and allowing it to do this. I actually got some weather stripping and added to the door and it helped but I would like to do a proper fix on the door.

3rd. The drivers side seat motor gears seemed to be stripped. Is there any type of replacement for these or possibly a replacement seat?

Last question not really a problem but I assume that the diffs in the truck are open because how easily the free wheels spin when I am in snow and 4x4 around.

Other than that she runs fairly good maybe a bit to rich but I'll fix that with some engine upgrades to help get better mpgs.

 

1.
recently had this issue with the wifes 97 exp ( i have a 92 S10 Tahoe too ).. so on the wifes, low temp on the gauge, week heat. Blows plenty of air, to any setting.

I pulled and dropped the therm in a pot of hot water, opened OK, but not having a temp gauge was kinda useless except to know it opens.

Anyway, changed the therm to a new one from NAPA ( not liking the autu/zone/palace et.. ) - problem solved !!! ( now we roast )

but the temp gauge is in the middle ALL the time !! ( after the engine warms of course )

2.
You need to goto an AP store and goto the HELP Board and grab a set of PINS AND BUSHINGS .. ( check repair manual for proper replacement )

3.
Junk yard trip here.. can either do a new power seat base, there may be motor kits avail.. sorry haven't looked.

4.
You could buy a locker kit, or get a set of auto-lockers I think (G80 RPO Code). On my 97 blazer, front & back locked when I went into 4LO, - in 4HI the rear locked. 2LO - no Lock

Running rich can be dirty injectors, old O2 Sensor, Vac Leak(manifold gaskets, hoses etc.. )

good luck

 

Exactly what kainon said. With the open diff question you can look in you glove box at the sticker with all the RPO codes. If you see G80 then you have a limited slip in the rear. If you have it and only one tire spins in the back it is most likely worn out. Which is very common with those. If you really want a locker I would look at getting an aftermarket limited slip unit. Dont spend the money on getting the G80 fixed/replaced. It will cost just as much if not more than an aftermarket one and they dont work nearly as good.

 

Great thanks for the help! Just wish I got this in summer time so it would be easier to work on but I'll get cracking on these soon.

 

Well crap. Just when I thought everything was getting fixed I already have another problem. The check engine light comes on after about 50 miles of driving but everything seems fine. I pull up into the driveway and park the car and it dies. Try starting it back up and it takes forever and some throttle pumping to start. Once it gets going it surges and then runs rough, surges again and dies. I let it sit for a couple hours and it starts right up and then after a couple minutes of idling it goes through it's surges again and nearly dies. The service engine light is not there anymore though. If I give it a little bit of gas it seems to run just fine and I can go through all gears and RPM with no problem. I am hoping this is just a simple problem here. Hopefully I can get the codes pulled next time I am around an autozone.

 

Definitely get the codes read. If the light was on, there will be a stored code.

Your symptoms could be caused by a leaking EGR valve.

 

Yeah I'll let you know what happens when I go check it out tomorrow and get some more help then.