I got one low speed and that is it.
The fuse is good.
Thoughts!!!!!

 

By the way, its 6 degrees out and with the windchill -15.
Heat is a nice thing.

 

Bad relay???

Inspect the HVAC fuse in the underhood fuse block.

Most of these tasks will require a test light...
[ol]Disconnect the blower motor relay.
Connect a test lamp between blower motor relay connector cavity86 (CKT52) and battery ground.
Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
Turn the mode selector switch to the HEAT position.
Turn the blower switch to the HIGH position. [/ol]
Connect a test lamp between heater and A/C controller connectorC4 cavityA and ground.

Connect a fused jumper wire to blower motor relay connector cavity87 (CKT540) and cavity30 (CKT65).
Does the blower motor operate?

These are some areas to check with the symptoms you listed that I checked with the Service Information DVD...

 

I'm pretty sure that means your switch is going/gone... You might be able to pull the heater controls out, and give power to the fan connections, to see if it speeds up... but 99% of the time, the switch is gone...

Did ya try smacking it? lol

Maybe a loose ground or something too...

 

LOL...............ACTUALLY 99% of the time that means your blower motor resistor is bad, Not the switch. It is mounted in the blower case under the hood right next to the heater hoses. There is a flat connector plugged into it and it is held in withthree 5.5mm hex-head screws. If it's never been out before, you will have to cut the rubber cover off of it to access the screws. To be sure, get a test light and check for power on each terminal with the key on and blower switch in each position I'll try to attach a schematic for ya buddy.
FIGURE Blower Controls (RPO C60)(c)

 

Thanks LastCoupe.
Being the mechanic that I am, I'll spend the $7 on a new resistor in the morning and replace it. I have to replace one of the heater hoses, I noticed its leaking at the radiator. I'll replace both the heater hoses while I'am there.For $7 its not worth the hassle in below zero weather to test it, especially with 99% odds. [sm=happybounce.gif]

 

Oops, my bad, I'll make sure to eat my numbers next time, lol

 

Don't worry Drperry, your plan is plan B.
I dread changing the switch. Its a bear to get out, and even worse to get back in. There is the fan switch wiring harness, the vent cable, the vacuum connector, light connector, and finally the temp switch connector all stuffed into a 3" x 6" space. I gotta remove the stereo to get my big *** hands in there and work on it.

 

Sorry hanr, I just assumed you were talking about your 2000 MY.
If so there is no cable on your HVAC control head it's all vacuum
controlled except the temp valve and it's electric. Anyway if you
need a schematic for one of the other MY's let me know and I'll
be glad to copy and paste

 

Opps my fault. Its on the '93. Still think its the resistor?