help with 87 s10 blazer
ok... just bought an 87 4x4 2.8l auto
starts up ok, shakes alot but when you put into gear doesnt shake, but when you give any gas above idle, shakes alot again.
im wondering if its motor mounts?
also
tranny lines from tranny to cooler leaks right near or at fitting to the tranny, guy said he was gonna change before i bought but when he started to he said he would have to take the exhuast off to do it? is this right?
other than that, a tune up and some shocks i think ill have a nice 4x4 2nd vehicle, and for $500 who can complain. (unless its gonna cost $500 more to fix) (but then its only a $1000 blazer with 4x4, not bad)
starts up ok, shakes alot but when you put into gear doesnt shake, but when you give any gas above idle, shakes alot again.
im wondering if its motor mounts?
also
tranny lines from tranny to cooler leaks right near or at fitting to the tranny, guy said he was gonna change before i bought but when he started to he said he would have to take the exhuast off to do it? is this right?
other than that, a tune up and some shocks i think ill have a nice 4x4 2nd vehicle, and for $500 who can complain. (unless its gonna cost $500 more to fix) (but then its only a $1000 blazer with 4x4, not bad)
Shaking could be a motor mount, or tranny mount.
Yep, you have to take off the exhaust to get to the tranny cooler lines, plus it helps to remove the tranny cross brace and tip the tranny down to get wrench clearnace, or install a body lift to get wrench clearance.
As for the cooler line itself. You can buy striaght tubeing from teh autoparts store and bend it into shape yourself. A tubing bender helps bend it. I don't remember if it was 48" or 60" tubing. I think the lower line is 48" and the upper is 60". You can bend it with your hands, however be careful, it is easy to kink, and tough on the thumbs. Even if your using a tubing bending, practice on a sracp piece first. You can kinck it as well. I bend in teh 80* bend at he tranny first, then the drop to below the starter, and shove the whole thing in place, then bend the radiator end. You can bend the intermittent section (between tranny and radiaotr) after the line is in place to clear the starter, oil pan, and serp belt.
By far the easiest way to get the exhaust cross over pipe out is to heat where the bolts go into the exhaust manifold. Get them as hot as possible, then use an impact gun to get them out, or a 1/2" drive rachet. Also helps to soak the bolts with PB Blaster or any good penatrating oil for several days first.
You could get lucky and just need to tighen up teh fitting, unfortunately, you have to go through alot of work to get there.
Yep, you have to take off the exhaust to get to the tranny cooler lines, plus it helps to remove the tranny cross brace and tip the tranny down to get wrench clearnace, or install a body lift to get wrench clearance.
As for the cooler line itself. You can buy striaght tubeing from teh autoparts store and bend it into shape yourself. A tubing bender helps bend it. I don't remember if it was 48" or 60" tubing. I think the lower line is 48" and the upper is 60". You can bend it with your hands, however be careful, it is easy to kink, and tough on the thumbs. Even if your using a tubing bending, practice on a sracp piece first. You can kinck it as well. I bend in teh 80* bend at he tranny first, then the drop to below the starter, and shove the whole thing in place, then bend the radiator end. You can bend the intermittent section (between tranny and radiaotr) after the line is in place to clear the starter, oil pan, and serp belt.
By far the easiest way to get the exhaust cross over pipe out is to heat where the bolts go into the exhaust manifold. Get them as hot as possible, then use an impact gun to get them out, or a 1/2" drive rachet. Also helps to soak the bolts with PB Blaster or any good penatrating oil for several days first.
You could get lucky and just need to tighen up teh fitting, unfortunately, you have to go through alot of work to get there.
Had another thought. Concrats on the truck. I have the same one. 
Since the shaking is happening both during idle (while in park?), and while in gear, its not your torque converter. The best thing you can do , is keep the tranny full of fluid until you get that leak fixed.

Since the shaking is happening both during idle (while in park?), and while in gear, its not your torque converter. The best thing you can do , is keep the tranny full of fluid until you get that leak fixed.
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