I have all kinds of weird electrical problems
#32
02-02-2010, 10:41 AM
I agree except someone's done a real hack job on thos one. It also blows the fuse. No loss of ground there.
#33
02-02-2010, 02:26 PM
I don't really have an understanding of the system. The dome light on 2000 was about 315 but it kept changing to other numbers close to that like 305. The rear light was always on 1 no matter the setting which I thought meant there was a problem with one or the other. If I start with the fuse box do you want me to check all the fuses for blown ones? I'm sorry if it seems like I don't understand. I'm trying really hard but electrical systems are not a strong point I guess. The upper switches that are wired for the light bar presumably lead to nowhere but I haven't really figured that one out yet. What I meant was that each switch has like a portable fuse socket wired into it and each one of those has a 15 fuse. I hope that makes more sense but it's hard to explain. I can't get a picture of it yet because I have class and work pretty much all day except for this short break I'm on now. I seriously appreciate you sticking by to help me with this.
Also, I'm not sure if it blows the fuse repeatedly or if when I got the car it just had a bad fuse from being old. I haven't had the car long enough to tell. I mean having a 5 fuse in a 20 socket probably wouldn't help the situation.
Also, I'm not sure if it blows the fuse repeatedly or if when I got the car it just had a bad fuse from being old. I haven't had the car long enough to tell. I mean having a 5 fuse in a 20 socket probably wouldn't help the situation.
Last edited by Eff10; 02-02-2010 at 02:31 PM. Reason: added info
#34
02-02-2010, 06:35 PM
No problem. What you have wired into the switches are in-lone fuses. Maybe the guy iddn't wire them into the interior light circuit. When you get to it, put your neter on (probably) 20 volts DC with no fuse in the fuse block. Ground the black probe on your meter and put the red probe on each side of the fuse holder in the block. You should read battery voltage on one and nothing on the other. If you don't let me know. You have a problem. I think you really need to get the upper lighter disconnected before we go any further and think about getting a new door jamb switch. Gotta run fir now. I'll add some more later.
As to how the system works, there is none more basic. The fuse box has battery voltage supplied to it. Add in the fuse and it flows electricity to each light assembly. There is always "hot" on the light inside of the socket. The switch is on the "downstream" side of current flow so when you turn it on the current flows through the bulb, then the switch and then to ground. The light filament then lights because of the electricity flowing through makes them glow. That's all there is to understanding the system. If you have electricity making ground with no bulb in between, it overloads the fuse and it melts (blows).
I think you should take the approach to see if you have voltage to each light. You can mess with the Ohms scales if we find a problem with one. There are 3 colors of wires in the interior light system. Orange (Orn), White (Wht) and Black (Blk). The power or hot wires are either Orn or Wht with Blk being the ground.
If you can remove all the light bulbs (there are only 4 not counting the glove box which we'll leave alone for now), put a fuse in the fuse holder, turn your meter on "20 volts" (or as close to 12v as you can get just so it's more than 12v), ground your black probe and then ceck the center of the socket on the bulbs or on the power side of the light on the overhead dome clip in type. If you don't know which side is hot, it'll be the side with the Orn wire. If the fuse blows you have other problems than a shorted light assembly, This is predicated on you disconnecting the lighter.
You can also check for a bad bulb with your meter. Turn you meter to like 200 Ohms, then put the black probe on the brass part of the bulb and red probe on the center **** at the base of the bulb. You should see the numbers drop close to zero (infinity) if they are good. They won't move if it's a bad bulb. Be a good idea to do this anyway when you pull them. For clip in type (overhead dome) do the same thing but just put your probes one either end.
I don't want to give you information overload but keep this as a reference. We'll come back to it a little at a time. Don't know how adventurous you feel.
As to how the system works, there is none more basic. The fuse box has battery voltage supplied to it. Add in the fuse and it flows electricity to each light assembly. There is always "hot" on the light inside of the socket. The switch is on the "downstream" side of current flow so when you turn it on the current flows through the bulb, then the switch and then to ground. The light filament then lights because of the electricity flowing through makes them glow. That's all there is to understanding the system. If you have electricity making ground with no bulb in between, it overloads the fuse and it melts (blows).
I think you should take the approach to see if you have voltage to each light. You can mess with the Ohms scales if we find a problem with one. There are 3 colors of wires in the interior light system. Orange (Orn), White (Wht) and Black (Blk). The power or hot wires are either Orn or Wht with Blk being the ground.
If you can remove all the light bulbs (there are only 4 not counting the glove box which we'll leave alone for now), put a fuse in the fuse holder, turn your meter on "20 volts" (or as close to 12v as you can get just so it's more than 12v), ground your black probe and then ceck the center of the socket on the bulbs or on the power side of the light on the overhead dome clip in type. If you don't know which side is hot, it'll be the side with the Orn wire. If the fuse blows you have other problems than a shorted light assembly, This is predicated on you disconnecting the lighter.
You can also check for a bad bulb with your meter. Turn you meter to like 200 Ohms, then put the black probe on the brass part of the bulb and red probe on the center **** at the base of the bulb. You should see the numbers drop close to zero (infinity) if they are good. They won't move if it's a bad bulb. Be a good idea to do this anyway when you pull them. For clip in type (overhead dome) do the same thing but just put your probes one either end.
I don't want to give you information overload but keep this as a reference. We'll come back to it a little at a time. Don't know how adventurous you feel.
Last edited by Gimpy Blazer; 02-03-2010 at 02:54 AM. Reason: added info
#35
02-06-2010, 08:35 PM
Hey Gimpy,
I went home for the weekend to pick up some more tools. I'm going to work on the lighter as soon as I get back. I also plan on checking the fuse block like you said and checking all the light sockets. As far as the overhead console lights go, I have no clue how to get at them. I think I understand everything you said but it's still pretty confusing. So you're saying not to have the multimeter on ohms unless we find a problem with one of the sockets? In a previous post you said to have it on ohms to check them and now you're saying volts so I'm kinda confused.
I went home for the weekend to pick up some more tools. I'm going to work on the lighter as soon as I get back. I also plan on checking the fuse block like you said and checking all the light sockets. As far as the overhead console lights go, I have no clue how to get at them. I think I understand everything you said but it's still pretty confusing. So you're saying not to have the multimeter on ohms unless we find a problem with one of the sockets? In a previous post you said to have it on ohms to check them and now you're saying volts so I'm kinda confused.
Last edited by Eff10; 02-06-2010 at 08:38 PM.
#36
02-07-2010, 04:57 AM
Sorry I'm late getting back to you. Had a little "pricedure" as they say.
You can use the meter either way. The voltage method is just more straightforward. We're going for simplicity here. Don't worry, you'll get your chance with the Ohms scale.
To get the bulbs out of the upper console, if you take a close look there is a slot for a screwdriver in the middle of the lens. Just unscrew it. The bulb then pulls straight out. If you don't have a screwdriver handy the book says use a dime. Seriously.
What we're going to do is to supply power to the sockets and see if you have voltage and ground. (Hope you've kept the previous posts about how to check a bulb with the meter to see if it's good. If not let me know.) If so, then you are going to install the bulbs one at a time and we'll see what happens.
I still think you need to get a door jamb switch. Its not that hard to change and you know that it's not any good.
You can use the meter either way. The voltage method is just more straightforward. We're going for simplicity here. Don't worry, you'll get your chance with the Ohms scale.
To get the bulbs out of the upper console, if you take a close look there is a slot for a screwdriver in the middle of the lens. Just unscrew it. The bulb then pulls straight out. If you don't have a screwdriver handy the book says use a dime. Seriously.
What we're going to do is to supply power to the sockets and see if you have voltage and ground. (Hope you've kept the previous posts about how to check a bulb with the meter to see if it's good. If not let me know.) If so, then you are going to install the bulbs one at a time and we'll see what happens.
I still think you need to get a door jamb switch. Its not that hard to change and you know that it's not any good.
#38
02-07-2010, 12:16 PM
Well my problems has just ended up being dead light bulbs all over the truck. Still havent solved the upper lighter not working though, thats next. My digital speedo works just fine with a new backlight bulb too, it was only working sometimes for a couple minutes, then it would go out for the rest of the day.
#39
02-07-2010, 10:28 PM
I bought a door jamb switch today and plan on tackling all the stuff I mentioned in the previous post when the temperature isn't so freezing. The only thing is the switch is an aftermarket type and it's made of plastic so I'm not too thrilled with it, but it's all that autozone had. You think it will work just fine?
Ohsofly, let me know if you figure out that cigarette lighter, and if I figure it out first, I'll definitely keep you posted.
Ohsofly, let me know if you figure out that cigarette lighter, and if I figure it out first, I'll definitely keep you posted.
#40
02-07-2010, 10:46 PM
ohsofly
Mine didn't work either. Sometimes the ground wire needs a little bending and "persuasion" to make good contact. You'll see what I mean. If you take the lighter apart, it's a real masterpiece and you've got to get it back together just so or it'll short inside. Trial and error, mostly error. Don't lose the ceranic spacer piece and you've got to screw it down just so much.
Nothing like the one in the parcel tray. Went through at least a couple of fuses. Just a heads up.
eff10
Probably work great. I bought mine and it was way too long. Mounted it in there and one good slam of the door "adjusted" it just fine. Works like a chanp. I'd go slow with a plastic one though. This would be a good time to get a little OJT on the Ohms scale. Connect one lead up to each tab coming out of the switch, put you meter on 200 ohms and press the switch. The numbers should drop like a rock towards zero. This is "continuity" or as some call it "infinity" because there's no resistance (or a very miniscule amount).
Mine didn't work either. Sometimes the ground wire needs a little bending and "persuasion" to make good contact. You'll see what I mean. If you take the lighter apart, it's a real masterpiece and you've got to get it back together just so or it'll short inside. Trial and error, mostly error. Don't lose the ceranic spacer piece and you've got to screw it down just so much.
Nothing like the one in the parcel tray. Went through at least a couple of fuses. Just a heads up.
eff10
Probably work great. I bought mine and it was way too long. Mounted it in there and one good slam of the door "adjusted" it just fine. Works like a chanp. I'd go slow with a plastic one though. This would be a good time to get a little OJT on the Ohms scale. Connect one lead up to each tab coming out of the switch, put you meter on 200 ohms and press the switch. The numbers should drop like a rock towards zero. This is "continuity" or as some call it "infinity" because there's no resistance (or a very miniscule amount).
Last edited by Gimpy Blazer; 02-07-2010 at 10:54 PM.