OK, i just pulled plenum off and gas is sitting in the bottom of the plenum, The hoses are wet near the injector, im assuming and I know what assuming does so please explain what will correct the issue.

assumption: the hoses wear near the where they plug into the injector or the clip does not hold them as secure as it used to.

Q: Is There something inside the injector assembly that needs replaced?

I was pulling plenum when i came back inside and checked forum and seen you asked about the leaking pressure if i remember correctly because i wasnt paying attention to it I turned key over looked at pressure started the engine and looked again. but i dont think it leaked very quickly and it ran fine with a rumbling miss at first, when i started it after warming up a bit and putting in gear it started missing bad and then had to keep gas down to run now

Ok found that it drops to zero soon as fuel pump kicks off, also found gas sitting in the bottom of the plenum ( or top of lower intake whichever its called)

fuel is coming from where pressure line inserts into the injector assembly.

 

If that is the only place it is leaking, then you likely can just replace the 'nut kit' and be good. It probably was leaking before. Those lines don't even like to be moved or they'll leak. I swear sometimes if you just think unkind thoughts about your engine, they'll know it and leak!

Just make sure that nothing is leaking on the passenger side of the spider where the FPR is located because that is another known problem. While you are in there, you may just want to put a new FPR into the spider if you don't know when it was replaced last.

 

It is new, i replaced it on old engine it all comes out as one unit thankfully, and i watched the gas pour from where the pressure line connects to the Injector assembly.

being new to mechanicing all togther what are you calling the nut kit is it the hoses i linked to earlier?

yes The Hoses are the 'Nut Kit' or Hose kit as they are referred to. found it y googling at
http://www.aztpi.com/product.php?pro...4&bestseller=Y

 

Yep, the nylon supply/return lines are what is commonly referred to as the 'nut kit'. Why, your guess is as good as mine.

If you replaced the 'nut kit' when you put the new engine in, then you will want to thoroughly inspect the spider body for cracks and the o-ring on the supply line connection to the spider for damage. Something caused it to leak again and in what sounds like a short period of time, if not right from the git-go.

 

I Replaced The regulator just a few months ago on the original engine, in fact since it was my first time I broke the injector assembly where the screw holds the regulator in place on the bottom, so I had to replace the Injector assembly w/ injector as one unit and also placed the new regulator on it, The Lines have never been changed on the old engine or this new engine ( 150,000 miles on new engine previously). I ordered New Lines from Napa Auto due in Thursday, which I have a busy Day so it may be Friday before I can install Them. However as Long as No gas escapes around regulator or nylon hoses it should be good inside The plenum correct? so if issues persist it will most likely be outside the plenum. Also if this doesnt make it run better Its for sale $1,000. Has fresh oil change, New transmission (94,000 Miles) with new fluid filter gasket, new Plugs and Wires and new 'Nut Kit' metal fuel Lines replaced from plenum to Fuel Filter ( New fuel filter), engine Block and radiator Flushed, only computer code is 45-Rich exhaust code ( Hoping new nut kit fixes it) New Plenum gasket (intake gasket) 4x4 and transfer case works fine, heck I even have 31 x10.5 Tires with plenty mud grips ( rather large tires but i live in the country on a hill with dirt road.)

Thank You for sharing your knowledge with myself and others Like me who are mechanically De-clined. You Hit The nail on the head on the most likely issue.

 

You are correct. If there are no leaks inside the plenum and the fuel pressure still leaks down, barring any external leaks and assuming that the FPR is functioning properly, the only other possibility would be a leaking check valve in the tank.

I have a feeling that the 'nut kit' will take care of things.

 

Check the EGR Valve....I had the same problem when I bought mine and it was the EGR. The EGR does throw a code though....so it may not be your problem.

 

ok with The Nut Kit The old ones do not have a O-ring and The new ones do The new ones wont fit in the injector assembly with The new ones having an o-ring on them? any clues on the issue ( Note: This injector assembly came from The junkyard before on my old engine) is there a built in seal in some diff model cpi injector housings?

 

The o-rings are required for things to seal up. Did your old lines have the o-ring grooves on the connector that goes into the injector body? And when you say, don't fit, do you mean there is no possible way or that it doesn't just slip in. It isn't meant to slip in. The o-rings have to seal back 60+psi of pressure. They need to be squeezed into place. You should be applying a little o-ring lubricant (in a pinch, motor oil will work) before attempting to put them together.

 

I Placed oil on The O-rings and wa-la They slipped in I was afraid to Put much pressure trying to slip Them in The injector assembly, last Thing I wanted to do is break or injure one of those costly lines or their Tips.

Holding 60 Pounds of pressure as needed does not leak off hardly at all and whrn it does start leaking its very very slowly, Now That issue is resolved, when started it is still sometimes requiring the gas to be pressed down a bit to start, and idles with a sound like a miss or a vacuum leak, plains out mostly in higher rpms.

The check engine light isnt throwing any codes

Q: Would a gauge showing Low oil pressure have anything to do with it ?

Bought the Screened Gasket $7.99 for The EGR Valve havent done anything to egr yet But i will just for Maintance pURPOSES. And Hopefully help The vehicle as well.

What I have done test and result wise was;

While Running , I unplugged The Throttle Position sensor The engine revved up and sounded much much better, I plugged it back in and no change, I then Turned truck off started vehicle again it again had the almost missing sound to it or a stumbling idle. unplugging the tps had no effect this time.

The Map sensor made it run badly and retarded sounding in timing when unplugged while running an dit straitened up when plugged back in while running.

The idle air sensor made it almost die and choke out when unplugged and it sounded better plugging it back in while running.

Gonna Check The automatic tuning thing on The plenum and see if it changes anything and any other sensors on or near the plenum

Opinion: would spraying starting fluid around the outside seal on the plenum caus the engine to rev up a bit if there was a gasket leak that could be causing issues? ( Note That There is super suction on the pcv valve and if stopped by placing finger over it the Vehicle dies immediately)

Took vehicle to Town and put 11 gallons of gas in , at This point I gave it a running test, it runs and shifts fine accelerating slowly.
From a dead stop if you stomp The gas it nearly dies then accelerates quickly. When flooring the gas on a strait strect of road it sounds as if its winding out while feeling like it cant shift and needs to ( bout like going 50-60 mph in 3rd gear on a standard)

pulled plug on the TPS it nearly died and then Idled up had more Power seemed but also rpms were high so it didnt stall.
I pulled the pvc valve and it looks like water or condensation on the bottom of the pvc valve. Oil is a bit overfilled and no grey or sludge on dipstick to indicate water into the oil,

Need to Fix This Motor any help with The given info would be greatly appreciated, Im grasping straws or getting closer and dont know it yet