Adding a couple of thoughts just to make clear what Billy1820 is referring to.

Several issues here the worst being the steering column lock! It stays locked whatsoever. Well if your yard is big enough you can run circles.

If the 1994 S10 is an automatic transmission it will not work as it can only start if the lock is energizing some services and transmission.
It is electronic fuel injection. No power to the ECU. You could probably crank it with this method but that's all there is.

That's the why this is not working on some more modern cars.

 

I reallly appreciate all the ideas and opinions! I am actually learning a lot!

so I went to rock auto and found the correct ignition lock cylinder that is comparable Nd went to amazon and ordered it for 10.99$

It comes with instructions that say I have to remove the steering wheel etc etc to push an ice pick in a little hole on the lock cylinder I have no key for to remove it . Then just put the new one in.

any hints or ideas to make the process easier or ???

 

Also , it’s a non programmable key . It only has a letter ingraved below the top (square part). And I do have the door key

 

Ah, good, that's a first gen without the remote control. Makes things a bit easier.

The 1994 is about the same if you have to remove and change the ignition switch and the locking post.
The "lock cylinder", that's the part where the key is inserted into, which contains the tumblers is what needs to be replaced. Small pins pushed to different depths into the lock to release the mechanism and allow turning. The main issue is that these locks are built to be tamper proof. No use to have a lock that can be beaten easily.

You can replace the locking cylinder without damage - but only if you have the key. Then it can be replaced with relative ease.
I have to check on mine and the service manual if replacing the lock cylinder needs removing the steering wheel. Not sure.

In your situation that means I'd try to source a couple of worn keys from a salvage yard which fit the lock and try until it turns. Then it can be removed without damage to the lock mechanism and switch. There are special techniques called a "bump key" that could be used as well.

I'll go in the afternoon and check on my Blazer.

P.S. I'd try to figure if the wallet has been found somewhere. Police, Lost&Found. Always easier to find the key.

For the new keys. The "L" stamped denominates the key's series and is used to make a new one. This would be required with the number of the key which is normally found on the small knock-out portion of the key. The letter and the number allows for cutting a new key without having the key.

 

Any reason why you didn’t just go to a dealership and order a new key? Is the vehicle not yours?

 

Price difference probable... dealership keys are a few hundred to what I heard...

 

Not for these basic keys, 50 bucks max. Way less time/effort/expense of taking the wheel/column apart.
.....Unless of course it wasn’t your vehicle