The connector tab on the wiring harness was broken for the Oil Pressure Switch so I purchased a new connector (Pig Tail). To get enough room to crimp the butt splices into the harness I had to remove the distributer. (I marked the location of the rotor for reinstallation) I cut the old connector off and spliced the new connector in and hooked it up to the Oil Pressure Switch. Re-installed the distributer and tried to start the engine. All it did was crank and no start. I verified TDC and the firing order and all was correct. I then remembered that one of the wires to the Oil Pressure Switched sparked when I had stripped the wires back to splice the new connector in. I pulled out the wiring diagrams from my factory service manual and found that the fuel pump is fed from ECM B and it is hot all the time and goes to both the Oil Pressure Switch and the Fuel Pump Relay. Sure enough the fuse was popped. This was a good opportunity to replace plugs, Cap & Rotor. I replaced the fuse. The engine fired right up. Blowing the fuse really through me for a little while and I kept checking the firing order, and the distributer orientation, checking for spark. I had to stop, re-think everthing and once I did I figured I either fried the fuel pump or blew a fuse. I glad it was the fuse.

 

A great example of how taking your time and diagnosing the problem correctly can save you big time and money! Great job! But as I am sure you know now and a tip for beginners, always disconnect the battery when servicing electrical components or wiring!

 

Yep, not removing the battery ground caused me some unwanted frustration.