pulled fuel pump relay and now engine throwing codes
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 62

its a 94 s10 blazer theres 2 relays to the right of the brake booster, i pulled the 1 for the fuel pump, but the pump still ran so i pulled both relays started it for about 10 seconds, check engine light came on. popped both relays back in disconnected the battery over night , drove it about 10mins and the check engine light came back on. Did i screw something up by popping out the 2 relays? The reason this was done is because i had to change my fuel pressure regulator. Bought an engine code scanner which i'm still waiting on to see what the codes are
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 289

I dont think you did anything wrong by pulling the relays, the one controls the fuel pump and the other controls your horn. Its a common trick, to swap them to test your relay.
You didnt need to buy a code reader, you could have done the paper clip trick and pulled your codes and posted them up for us.
To do the trick, take a paper clip and insert each end into the dataport thats under the dash by your right knee. You want to insert it in to the 2 top far right ports. Your Check engine light will start to flash, count the flashes, it will start out with the code 12, (a single flash, followed by 2 quick flash's) so that doesnt count. The next flashes will be your codes and it will end with the code 12. The cycle will repeat it's self, so if you missed them dont worry.
Hope that helps.
You didnt need to buy a code reader, you could have done the paper clip trick and pulled your codes and posted them up for us.
To do the trick, take a paper clip and insert each end into the dataport thats under the dash by your right knee. You want to insert it in to the 2 top far right ports. Your Check engine light will start to flash, count the flashes, it will start out with the code 12, (a single flash, followed by 2 quick flash's) so that doesnt count. The next flashes will be your codes and it will end with the code 12. The cycle will repeat it's self, so if you missed them dont worry.
Hope that helps.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 62

Well the engine light came on when i removed both relays at the same time, tried the paper clip trick and that just annoyed me trying to understand it, which is why i bought a code reader Actron CP9145 cost me less than $50 and i just got it today...looks brand new lol but i had to order the obd i cable which should be in next week...The sunpro models that look exactly the same & do the same were going for $300+ on ebay...Besides my engine light going off it has been a lucky week, thought I'd be spending a paycheck on a scanner, but no $36 and it was used once, then i won two $600+ computer graphics cards from a local store lol
Soon as the obd i cable is in I'll post the codes. By jumpering the wrong pins in the obd port, will that damage anything? Because the first time i did it i jumpered the two pins top & bottom on left side, then the top & bottom on right side before getting it right
Soon as the obd i cable is in I'll post the codes. By jumpering the wrong pins in the obd port, will that damage anything? Because the first time i did it i jumpered the two pins top & bottom on left side, then the top & bottom on right side before getting it right
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 62

OK my scanner doesn't have a vehicle type of s series 4x4 so i did s series 4x2 4.3l cpi an got mat sensor signal too low
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 62

Yay figured it out finally, PA mechanics suck btw. the mat sensor goes into the intake hose going into the engine, put it in, no SES, had to buy a new one though mine was lost some where along the line.
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