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Starter solenoid shorting out

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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 05:26 PM
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Default Starter solenoid shorting out

Hello! I've browsed this forum on occasion but this is my first post. I've read over a few threads with similar issues but I wanted to introduce myself and my current issue. I have an '89 S10 Blazer that's been garage kept most of the last 15 years until I acquired it a year ago from my uncle, who bought it from dad in '92. It has been a great truck for the short time I've owned it until recently.

I believe I'm having an issue with the starter shorting out. Last week after a tow home I discovered my positive lead from the battery terminal was completely corroded(negative seemed fine) so I replaced it with the recommended cable from AAP. After doing so the vehicle started just fine and I was able to take a few trips around town yesterday. Came out this morning to a dead battery, volt meter read 7 volts from the battery but once I connected the leads it dropped to almost nothing. Had the battery tested and was told it showed 0 amps so I came home with a new one. Once installed I had the same issue as others, as soon as the negative terminal makes contact the starter engages without the key in the ignition. Checking out the starter again I noticed the positive lead had rotated a bit on the bolt and was making connection with the solenoid housing(not sure why it's not insulated further...). I was able to rotate the ring terminal away from the housing and tighten the nut again. The car started up correctly this time and I thought I'd drive it around the block for good measure but before I left the parking lot the starter began engaging again making that awful noise and putting out some dirty exhaust. I jumped out and had to remove the negative lead to shut it off. This time I rotated the power lead even further from the solenoid housing and tightened it even more. It started ok but I'm afraid to leave the parking lot knowing that's all it takes to short out and the process to make it stop, I can't imagine being on the highway with that issue.

Is this something anyone has experienced while driving? Could there be something else causing the starter to engage? Using a meter I checked for continuity everywhere else I could think and didn't find any issues. I should mention I have an aftermarket remote start but I pulled the fuse today so i should be able to rule it out.

Thanks for reading, I know it's a lot but I'm not ready to give up on this guy.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jnewtonav
Hello! I've browsed this forum on occasion but this is my first post. I've read over a few threads with similar issues but I wanted to introduce myself and my current issue. I have an '89 S10 Blazer that's been garage kept most of the last 15 years until I acquired it a year ago from my uncle, who bought it from dad in '92. It has been a great truck for the short time I've owned it until recently.

I believe I'm having an issue with the starter shorting out. Last week after a tow home I discovered my positive lead from the battery terminal was completely corroded(negative seemed fine) so I replaced it with the recommended cable from AAP. After doing so the vehicle started just fine and I was able to take a few trips around town yesterday. Came out this morning to a dead battery, volt meter read 7 volts from the battery but once I connected the leads it dropped to almost nothing. Had the battery tested and was told it showed 0 amps so I came home with a new one. Once installed I had the same issue as others, as soon as the negative terminal makes contact the starter engages without the key in the ignition. Checking out the starter again I noticed the positive lead had rotated a bit on the bolt and was making connection with the solenoid housing(not sure why it's not insulated further...). I was able to rotate the ring terminal away from the housing and tighten the nut again. The car started up correctly this time and I thought I'd drive it around the block for good measure but before I left the parking lot the starter began engaging again making that awful noise and putting out some dirty exhaust. I jumped out and had to remove the negative lead to shut it off. This time I rotated the power lead even further from the solenoid housing and tightened it even more. It started ok but I'm afraid to leave the parking lot knowing that's all it takes to short out and the process to make it stop, I can't imagine being on the highway with that issue.

Is this something anyone has experienced while driving? Could there be something else causing the starter to engage? Using a meter I checked for continuity everywhere else I could think and didn't find any issues. I should mention I have an aftermarket remote start but I pulled the fuse today so i should be able to rule it out.

Thanks for reading, I know it's a lot but I'm not ready to give up on this guy.
Since your ride is pushing 30 yrs. old..You may have a short under the dash near the steering column.And/or have a defective starter solenoid,defective ignition switch.Years ago I had a 81 malibu that had the same problem as yours.Come to find out, the ignition switch was defective.If your ignition switch is still the original one from the factory..Then possibilty the switch has failed.They don`t last forever.You may want to have the starter tested(first) to make sure the solenoid is working properly.From the looks of the starter from your picture, it looks like it has alot of miles on it.How many miles does the starter have on it, that you know of?
 

Last edited by Toocute350; Dec 25, 2015 at 11:42 AM.
Old Dec 25, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Toocute350
Since your ride is pushing 30 yrs. old..You may have a short under the dash near the steering column.And/or have a defective starter solenoid,defective ignition switch.Years ago I had a 81 malibu that had the same problem as yours.Come to find out, the ignition switch was defective.If your ignition switch is still the original one from the factory..Then possibilty the switch has failed.They don`t last forever.You may want to have the starter tested(first) to make sure the solenoid is working properly.
Thank you. I plan to have the starter tested when I get home from the holidays. I can physically see where the power lead to the solenoid is moving on the bolt and touching the housing, so I still believe that is the source. I think the best course of action is to replace the solenoid at least with a newer design that won't short out on the housing.

Now to diagnose the coolant leak that i discovered while troubleshooting all this.
 
Old Dec 25, 2015 | 11:32 PM
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The positive lead rotating inless it's hitting and supplying power to the smaller terminal on the solenoid should not cause the starter to engage. However when tight it should not move at all, leading me to think the bakelite end of the solenoid is weakened due to age. If the Pos. lead breaks off or rotates around to metal and grounds out major melt down will happen. I would change out at least the solenoid. I would almost suspect the remote start before you removed the fuse, could be as simple as you surge the electronics while hooking up the battery, you may already know this but hook up the Pos. cable then Neg, same with jump starting, Keeps from surging things and having funky things from happening.
 
Old Dec 26, 2015 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by odat
The positive lead rotating inless it's hitting and supplying power to the smaller terminal on the solenoid should not cause the starter to engage. However when tight it should not move at all, leading me to think the bakelite end of the solenoid is weakened due to age. If the Pos. lead breaks off or rotates around to metal and grounds out major melt down will happen. I would change out at least the solenoid. I would almost suspect the remote start before you removed the fuse, could be as simple as you surge the electronics while hooking up the battery, you may already know this but hook up the Pos. cable then Neg, same with jump starting, Keeps from surging things and having funky things from happening.
You're right, it could be an internal short? I'll be taking it to the shop Monday.
 
Old Jan 1, 2016 | 12:06 AM
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The starter has been tested by a mechanic and seems to be working properly. They told me my electrical issues were most likely caused by old wiring(arc flash), faulty spark plugs, and a dirty distributor cap. Started noticing engine misfires on the way to the shop. Looking forward to picking it up tomorrow.
 
Old Jan 1, 2016 | 12:48 AM
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Arc flashing - could be but IMO I doubt it, if it was mine I would suspect the aftermarket remote start more, I would leave it unpowered and see if the problem ever shows again or disconnect it totally and hook every thing back up stock.
 
Old Jan 4, 2016 | 06:21 PM
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haven't had any issues yet, seems to be running well again. It starts a little different now than before possibly due to new spark plugs? it sounds like the flywheel spins at least a second or two longer before the engine turns over. could be nothing, just glad to have it back.
 
Old Jan 4, 2016 | 08:48 PM
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Thanks for the update - good luck
 
Old Jan 17, 2016 | 04:40 PM
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Truck is back at the shop. Was starting slower and slower until it wouldn't start at all and left me stranded on 2 occasions. I'm fairly confident the solenoid is the issue. I didn't want to tow it again today so I used a tire iron to give the solenoid a few knocks and one the third try (and a few sparks) it engaged, turned over and i drove it to the mechanic. This is the same guy who did the electrical work for me recently. He's telling me I should get the Viper remote start removed before he does any work but I have a hard time believing that's the issue, not to mention the only Viper dealer in my area is best buy and their next available appointment is 2 weeks from now. I physically disconnected the viper unit and wiring myself but I'm not positive it still wouldn't affect the ignition somehow due to anti-theft reasons?

Should I try to replace the starter or just the solenoid myself and save the quoted $600? I'm not sure how involved that would be and I'm running out of options. Thanks for the help!
 



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