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starting issues

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  #11  
Old 01-13-2011 | 02:29 AM
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nope... got a new one, tried to start.. sounded like it wanted to but no luck... had to stop cuz it made the house stink like gas fumes..
 
  #12  
Old 01-18-2011 | 12:07 AM
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please help... i tried "the paperclip trick" for the codes but it didnt work... PLEASE HELP
 
  #13  
Old 01-19-2011 | 10:13 PM
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I believe I got the same problem I have a 94' Chevy s10 blazer And I've had the oil change, new muffler, tail pipe, and catalytic converter, starter, and I've change the stater/positive battery wire. I was starting to think bad wiring somewhere but I think I will try your method....very informing video thank you....plz post your solution because its probably my solution too
 

Last edited by rriddle3; 01-19-2011 at 10:23 PM. Reason: changed 'Cadillac' to 'catalytic'
  #14  
Old 01-23-2011 | 08:17 PM
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Check this out, Just got a 94 S-10 Tahoe LT w/ 224,000 miles but body and interior was in good condition. The previous owner said that one day while out, it started to bog down, missfire, and then die. It would start up fine, but when put into gear and accelerate, it would do it all over again.

He managed to limp it home. Thinking it was an ignition problem he replaced the plugs, wires, coil, and a few other ignition components.
No dice, none of that worked. Fustrated he left it parked.

At this point, the vehicle has sat for over 2 years. I got it for a real deal. Threw in a hot battery and tried to crank it. Not really expecting it to crank, I took the opprtunity to try and diagnose the problem I believed to be fuel related.

Oddly, the pump didn't make any noticable noise. Asked the previous owner if the pump was unusually loud. And he said that as a matter of fact, it did. And so I began the painfull process of pump replacement. A few hours later, had the pump out and WHOA! Complete filter rupture and failure. Also the bottom of the pump was severly damaged (probably to overheating). Replaced it with a Bosch replacement kit. (found it hard to swallow a $330 hit for a OEM replacement kit.) but if this one fails then I will.

Tried to start it...Nothin. Damn! No pump runnin. checked the harness at the bumper, and 12v. So I pulled the tank again, come to find out that it was a bad connection in the tank. so I put it back in. Checked the pump and it worked. Tried starting it again and the engine wouldn't start. Checked the in-line filter, a lil dirty but reversed flushed. Checked the check valve for pressure, yes. Checked for spark, yes.

Everything checked out all the way up to the spider. Poped the cover off the lower plenum and a big suprise again! Black crud all over the inside. I took this sign as my spider died. I took a moment to mourn over my loss and proceded to replace my tragic loss. $300 later, poped it in and it fired right on up!

Mad props to everyone for their excellent advice, good stuff!
 
  #15  
Old 01-24-2011 | 01:02 AM
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Hey agamemnon after readin ur story bout ur blazer we had somewhat a similar route but I have now recently had the starter, positive battery wire, tail pipe, Cadillac converter, muffler, oil change.....my problem is the speed and now its got so bad it feels like I move 2 miles per hour....Im thinkin it could be the spider, nut kit, fuel regulator, and probably something else....do u think by fixing those three will fix my speed?
 
  #16  
Old 01-24-2011 | 09:21 AM
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Hmmm, if I had to put money on what I thought was your problem. I would imagine it would probably be your spider. Kinda of expensive I know, but the fuel delivery system on these things aren't that complicated. If your pump is working properly and the filter isn't obstructed. Then the only thing left next would be the spider, provided you have sufficent spark at the plugs.

Open the plenum and see if there is any old fuel that has carmelized due to age in the casing, might be the nut kit or the spider. if there is, I put money that your spider took a crap or the feed lines have a rupture.

Try that and get back to me, hope it helps.
 
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