I'd like to know how you think that the factory made a sin... The numbers are on the CAP!!! Just push the wires on the corresponding terminals. The reason they made it that way was because to make it 1,3,5 would mean traces overlapping. Look at the raised sections of plastic on the top of the cap (or I could take a picture tomorrow afternoon for ya from my old cap that I saved). Those raised sections are due to the traces from the pins inside to the terminals outside. Check out the picture from Advanced Auto's Website. The caps available from pretty much every aftermarket manufacturer are the same as pictured below. Clearly visible are the numbers on the terminals.


Anyway, back on topic... I second the necessity of a manual. $15 will get you a so-so manual, but atleast it's something.

[IMG]local://upfiles/667/B4E77E7C0C18444B9B37EEFF34941883.jpg[/IMG]

 

swartlkk

Yeah I knew that too, but some poor dude with his head stuck under a hood and a flashlight is surely in trouble. BTW I added where the location of number one for the more traditional ought to be FOR YOUR SAKE.

Do you really think it would have been neccesary to stamp the numbers on the cap if they had not made a screwy decision to begin with?


swartlkk
Guess there isn much sense in being helpful around here. I added some serious corrections to that post while you sat back and never noticed them? Emotion is a dangerous thing. I dont suppose I am really needed here. Guess I ought to let those that dont buy books get advice from those that dont read. I truly wonder how many usefull posters you lose due to overly ambitious remarks and emotions expressed by just one.



I did see a very usefull comment. The one about the cat converter. But like I asked, is it gone?

This is an engine that was running EXACTLY as the computer wanted it to. (BTW all computer cars do) The knocking code was CAUSED by something. Replacing the sensor is not the first step in the trouble shooting table. Knocks are CAUSED by things. The sensor is there to indicate a problem; a problem DOES exist.

Couple of questions should have been asked. 1] hear a knock at idle with a stethescope? (How hard is it to hear with the exhaust making all that noise?) No, next step, 2) the computer is causing a mixture of tuning that is causing a knock? A2) That could be bad timing and or mixture, even vacuum problems. 3) what problem exists that is causing the computer to do this??


Just a small example of a correct way of thinking for those that like to hunt and peck.

 

Hello. Thanks for all your help. I decided today to have my blazer towed and have a real mechanic fix the problem. I do appreciate all your help and advise. I have read many posts before and have been able to solve my problems without any major hedaches, not this time. It seems that my problem was a lack of not paying attention in the first place. BTW, i do have the cats on my truck with a catback system. Again, thanks for all help and hope to see that we have no love lost here.

Josh

 

Well, let us know what it turned out to be. Hope it doesn't hit the pocket book too hard.

 

In an earlier answer to the posts here, the following was written.

swartlkk

"That is true for your distributor design, but I'm not sure if that is the way that the CPI motors with a more traditional cap (ie wires out the top). Based off of that Distributor cap routing, the 1-6-5-4-3-2 firing order would not work on the older caps. The reason why it works on the newer engines is because of the internal (to the cap) routing of the terminals. If you look on the top of your cap, you'll see a trace of where the terminals actually go from the pins inside to the plug outside. "
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Written proof that the poster knows the firing order, but has not noticed the numbers on top cause he is asking the poor man in trouble to trace the construction of the cap. Guess he found them later? Perhaps on the advance web site? Otherwise he could simply have said, if you look on top of the cap, you'll see the cylinder numbers. I could have too, but with my luck the owner had found the one single cap maker that didnt mark the darn thing. I have a 95 with regular towers and the fanciest injection and motor. No one can guess the combinations out here in the real world. I even bought the wrong wires without looking one time. I just EXPECTED it to be such, it wasnt.
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In a different earlier post here, this was written.


swartlkk

I'm not sure where the #1 cylinder should be on the cap, but to find out, turn the motor over to compression on #1. To do this, pull the plugs and turn the motor over with the starter. Place your finger over the plug hole for #1 cylinder (front drivers side). When your finger gets blown out of the way, then you're on compression on the #1 cylinder. From there, you can pull the cap and take a look at the rotor location. Since the distributor rotates clockwise, you'll want the wire terminal that is closest to the rotor position in the clockwise direction. Mark this as your #1 terminal.
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Written proof that he doesnt know where cylinder #1 ought to be ???? Wow. ( and here I thought it was written on the cap?) I might add that once you feel the nice strong compression stroke blow your finger OFF the hole, you have just PASSED TDC. Also real bad advice. Mainly cause you were not told that once this happens AND you have seen the timing mark go by, you have to turn the engine over manually till NOT the next time you see the timing mark, but the time after that. Failing to mention a timing mark ( and staring strongly at it while cranking) goes on to prove that this poster doesnt know what he is writing. Though he may well know how to actually DO IT, he cannot write the directions. Though I would think that I would never pull ALL the plugs if I knew what I was doing. Pulling cyl one out would be enough, no?
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There were a couple of other minor mistakes made by other posters, but they didnt seem like they wished to continue on the road they were on.


I have had to remove the ability to send things privately to my e-mail address since I have received at least one really ugly private mailing. I do hope that my actual e-mail address is not now known to this poster, I do not know how all this operates on this site, but I guess I'll find out. You can tell I dont know how to use the available options on this site, but I'll bet my cars run right.

 

If you were to look, the original poster has a '94. '94s distributor cap is a vertical terminal cap! Holy freakin' crap! WOW. No wonder he couldn't see the numbers! They are NON-EXISTENT!!!

Oh and welcome to the world of PMs (private messages). I preferred that over blatant calling you out on the forums where you would be made to look like a fool exactly has it has played out here!

[IMG]local://upfiles/667/6794629659D148E2A4110C4E3225EC99.jpg[/IMG]

*EDIT* - whoops, wrote '95 instead of '94. Same still applies

Also, as far as figuring the timing, You will get close enough to know where #1 is supposed to be. I have done this EXACT same thing on v8s too many times to count. Although I did this with a starter switch in my hand to jog the motor. Control over the starter motor is in my hands so I know when to stop. If you have someone else just bump the starter, you'll get it close enough. Have you ever done this or did you just look up some more info on the internet?

I will give you one thing, all of the plugs do not need to be pulled, but it does make for easier turning of the motor when you bump the starter and is how I have always done it in the past.

 

Take it in context!!! The previous post stated:
Scott (with his 2001 - horizontal terminals) stated the distributor wire routing as 2-4-6 (front of vehicle to back) on the passenger side and 3-1-5 (again front to back) on the drivers. Again, for the posters '94 this wiring order would NOT work as the firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2. If the wires were put on in that order around the older style cap, it would not work.

NEXT.

 

Ok, why not have 3 posts in a row! Here's something more on the timing. You'd do this with the cap off, but the rotor on. Looking at the distributor/rotor, when you feel the compression stroke, note the location of the rotor tip. If it goes past, keep on bumping it. It takes a bit of experience to hit it on the first try. You should get within 1 terminal of the proper one and short attempts to start the motor with the improper distributor wiring won't hurt a thing.

Aside from putting in a TDC locator in the plug hole and manually rotating up to TDC on #1, this is the quickest and easiest way to find it, manuals and first hand knowledge of the wire locations aside.

 

My original sentence:
"BTW the factory commited a very drastic sin in the horizontal cap arrangement if that is what you have." I gave direction for BOTH caps and coverred all the bases. Not good enough??????


Just to prove existence????????? Yes he could have one.

Part No.
DR475 Standard Motor Products Distributor Cap
Distributor Cap: W/O Powertrain Control Module
Warranty: 1 Year Limited Warranty

Listed under a 94 Blazer at your favorite parts house, Advance, Available for both the W and Z motor in two wheel drive. Of course the 4 wheel drive ones are exactly the same. Its about 42-43 dollars and most of us wont buy a cap that costs this much.



Part No.
DR162 GP Sorensen Ignition Cap
OE Style; Horizontal Towers; Without Power Train Module
Warranty: 1 Year Replacement Warranty


Listed for my 95 jimmy. Yes, I could have one.


Part No.
DR79W Niehoff Ignition Distributor Cap
Distributor Cap: Electronic Dist.; w/Side Tower Cap


Also listed for my jimmy.






How much is your starter worth? Well, see how many bumps it takes to mess it up? Eat your biscuits and use a tool?

I did give specific instructions on how to do a regular cap, also, very specific, I even pointed out WHERE cylinder #1 ought to be positioned in relation to the rest of the motor. Dire need for that, at the time.


I think what set our fellow poster off was my comment about the factory making a mistake by going to a horizontal cap, one that was not 100% right. Since my fellow poster must therefore think highly of Chevy products, I commend him. Defending the factory when they make errors of judment requires complete and irresponsible loyalty. I wish I were capable of such a thing, but in cases where my loyalty has ever been at stake I have always chosen what is right and correct over blind faith. Only faith as applied to religion can ask this of me. Not a Chevy. Watch out for emotions, they strangle reality.

 

Again with the emotions. You just don't know when to quit do you. Starter croaking cause you bumped it afew times with the plugs out? LOL, you make me laugh. Please tell your mother you need less internet time cause it's going to your head. Nuff said. This is done.