is it hard to do. and how much time does it take? i have a funeral i have to go to 2maro. any hints on how to do it?

 

Hmm.. It has been a while, but I believe I can help here... The amount of time really depends on your experience and tool availability. It shouldn't require any special tools to do. You'll want a decent socket set, an assortment of screw drivers, a scraper, some emry cloth, a wire brush, and some RTV. Ofcourse you will also need the new water pump, new gaskets, 1.5 gallons of coolant and atleast 1.5 gallons of distilled water. You may want to take this time to replace the thermostat and radiator cap while your in there. Good preventative maintenance practice!!

Remove the upper radiator shroud. Remove the accessory drive belt. Remove the fan clutch from the water pump. I think your truck is before they went to the thread on clutch so you should be able to just unbolt the fan clutch from the water pump, which will allow you to remove the water pump pulley at the same time. I also believe that your engine does not have anything else that bolts onto the water pump, but I am hazy on this. If it doesn't, then you only have to remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump to the block and then remove the water pump. That is after you have drained the radiator and removed the lower radiator hose and heater hose(s) from the water pump.

Now it's clean up time. Clean up the gasket surfaces on the block with the scraper and then the emry cloth to get them nice and clean. Use the wire brush to clean any debris off of the mounting bolts and make sure to get them very clean.

I coat the gaskets in a fine layer of RTV to help them stay put and seal up nice. I do this by first putting a thin coat on the water pump gasket surfaces, laying the gasket on. I then coat the gasket surface on the block. You will also want to put RTV on the bolts as a few (or is it all) of them are exposed on the inside to the water jackets in the motor. Without the RTV, it is possible to have a coolant leak past the threads.

Bolt up the new WP and start putting everything back on in the reverse order. Get all of the hoses put back on and refill with coolant. Allow the truck to come up to operating temperature (and the tstat to open) and check for leaks. Keep monitoring the coolant level over the next few days as the air works its way out of the system.

Should be pretty straight forward, but again, it has been awhile since I have done this on a CPI motor and I can not, for the life of me, remember if the accessories mount off of the WP or if this motor has it's own cast aluminum brackets that keep the WP isolated.