"What to fix now?" 87 w 2.8
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Beginning Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 37
From: Miami, Fl
"What to fix now?" 87 w 2.8
With ya'lls advice brake problem solved.
Now to fix what to fix first according to report from mechanic (and what I thought should be checked out)
Major Tune-up (I have no problem doing this but wanted to know if I need anything special like setting the timing etc. when I put on the distributor cap and rotor)
Also are spark plugs difficult to get to in this engine? I have read spark plug thread
They ran a code check and it needs;
EGR Selenoid
MAP sensor and what is causing it to run rich is this same as high idle when in park?
(can I replace these myself?)
Mechanic said not to replace the above with out doing tune-up first
"Check noise from A/C" needs;
Compressor
Dryer
Orife Tube?
Same question and is it worth paying mechanic price quoted is about two hundred bucks parts included
For sure need new muffler as tail pipe has hole in it was shown an example of a flow master installed on a nice 72 C10 chevy truck to a "Y" with chrome ends nice but not necessary
Overhead light was disconnected by previous owner as it would not turn off but he also installed or had installed wiring harness for a trailer hitch not sure how to address this I think he told me it would not turn off and drained battery
Driver side window only goes down about four inches and stops- motor works so maybe just actuator? on passenger side motor works and window comes down but comes off track and needs to be held in place to go back up and not on track when it goes down
No clue what to buy to fix both window (I did read Giovanni's window thread but still clue less)
Rear glass window will not stay up so I know struts need replacing
and should I and can I replace rear window gate/window latch as it is very loose and or can I just tighten?
Need to order front tires to match new rear tires---front are 225s and rears 235s put on by previous owner is it ok to run 235s? Eventually would like to put on some black cragar soft eights or other wheels
thanks for any and all replies. All of these are regular maintenance issues on a vehicle that was WELL taken care of just not driven very much over the last twenty five years.
Oh yes I previously read that these 2.8s leak at the valve cover and I noticed caked up oil and on rear df seal any ideas?
ok one last "detail" question...previous owner told me he sprayed silver paint over what was painted black on body trim and now chipping off and looks bad Can I use a solvent to try to remove this and leave it black? I scrapes off but that seem like a lot of work other thought was use fine grit steel wool but thought might take off black paint too
peace
david in miami
Now to fix what to fix first according to report from mechanic (and what I thought should be checked out)
Major Tune-up (I have no problem doing this but wanted to know if I need anything special like setting the timing etc. when I put on the distributor cap and rotor)
Also are spark plugs difficult to get to in this engine? I have read spark plug thread
They ran a code check and it needs;
EGR Selenoid
MAP sensor and what is causing it to run rich is this same as high idle when in park?
(can I replace these myself?)
Mechanic said not to replace the above with out doing tune-up first
"Check noise from A/C" needs;
Compressor
Dryer
Orife Tube?
Same question and is it worth paying mechanic price quoted is about two hundred bucks parts included
For sure need new muffler as tail pipe has hole in it was shown an example of a flow master installed on a nice 72 C10 chevy truck to a "Y" with chrome ends nice but not necessary
Overhead light was disconnected by previous owner as it would not turn off but he also installed or had installed wiring harness for a trailer hitch not sure how to address this I think he told me it would not turn off and drained battery
Driver side window only goes down about four inches and stops- motor works so maybe just actuator? on passenger side motor works and window comes down but comes off track and needs to be held in place to go back up and not on track when it goes down
No clue what to buy to fix both window (I did read Giovanni's window thread but still clue less)
Rear glass window will not stay up so I know struts need replacing
and should I and can I replace rear window gate/window latch as it is very loose and or can I just tighten?
Need to order front tires to match new rear tires---front are 225s and rears 235s put on by previous owner is it ok to run 235s? Eventually would like to put on some black cragar soft eights or other wheels
thanks for any and all replies. All of these are regular maintenance issues on a vehicle that was WELL taken care of just not driven very much over the last twenty five years.
Oh yes I previously read that these 2.8s leak at the valve cover and I noticed caked up oil and on rear df seal any ideas?
ok one last "detail" question...previous owner told me he sprayed silver paint over what was painted black on body trim and now chipping off and looks bad Can I use a solvent to try to remove this and leave it black? I scrapes off but that seem like a lot of work other thought was use fine grit steel wool but thought might take off black paint too
peace
david in miami
BF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,424
From: munster indiana
i dont think the plugs are a pain on the 2.8. on the 4.3 engine theres one on the driverside that is blocked by the steering shaft, you shouldnt have that probelm yet.
as far as your ac issue. if your compressor is making noise or is bad, you dont HAVE to replace everything else he mentioned but it is recommended, cause if the compressor is spitting metal/debris into the lines if you put a new compressor in theres a possibility that the debris may go into the new compressor and screw it up again
as far as your ac issue. if your compressor is making noise or is bad, you dont HAVE to replace everything else he mentioned but it is recommended, cause if the compressor is spitting metal/debris into the lines if you put a new compressor in theres a possibility that the debris may go into the new compressor and screw it up again
With ya'lls advice brake problem solved.
Now to fix what to fix first according to report from mechanic (and what I thought should be checked out)
Major Tune-up (I have no problem doing this but wanted to know if I need anything special like setting the timing etc. when I put on the distributor cap and rotor)
Also are spark plugs difficult to get to in this engine? I have read spark plug thread
They ran a code check and it needs;
EGR Selenoid (take it off and clean the little piston in it with brake cleaner,push on the piston and clean around it,they usually get dirty and throw the code)
(can I replace these myself?) yes,easy. Just look up a engine diagram and find out where they are,and the way they come off is self explanatory.
Mechanic said not to replace the above with out doing tune-up first. true,egr is probably clogged from the rich condition,and the plugs are probably fouled. Tell him to stick with ac delco parts,not aftermarket. you'll thank me later. (except on the ac compressor)
"Check noise from A/C" needs;
Compressor
Dryer
Orife Tube?
Same question and is it worth paying mechanic price quoted is about two hundred bucks parts included
thats about right.
For sure need new muffler as tail pipe has hole in it was shown an example of a flow master installed on a nice 72 C10 chevy truck to a "Y" with chrome ends nice but not necessary. that c10 is a v8,its going to sound nothing alike lol. If the trucks quiet,dont worry about it.
Driver side window only goes down about four inches and stops- motor works so maybe just actuator? I believe they are built in together,im not sure. on passenger side motor works and window comes down but comes off track and needs to be held in place to go back up and not on track when it goes down You need the little window clips. Look up "HELP! Dorman 45285" thats the parts you will need.
No clue what to buy to fix both window (I did read Giovanni's window thread but still clue less)
Rear glass window will not stay up so I know struts need replacing
and should I and can I replace rear window gate/window latch as it is very loose and or can I just tighten? Its easy to replace,you need to remove the inside panel,metal plate cover (under the panel) and you'll see that the latch is only held in by a spring plate. get a long flathead and a hammer and tap it to the side,then tap it back in after you replace the lock. you'll see what i mean when you do it.
Need to order front tires to match new rear tires---front are 225s and rears 235s put on by previous owner is it ok to run 235s? Eventually would like to put on some black cragar soft eights or other wheels. 235s will fit fine,at least on the 4x4s. If yours is 4x4 keep all the tires the same size.
Oh yes I previously read that these 2.8s leak at the valve cover and I noticed caked up oil and on rear df seal any ideas? rear df? Maybe im slow,iu cant think of what a "df" is right now lol
peace
david in miami
Now to fix what to fix first according to report from mechanic (and what I thought should be checked out)
Major Tune-up (I have no problem doing this but wanted to know if I need anything special like setting the timing etc. when I put on the distributor cap and rotor)
Also are spark plugs difficult to get to in this engine? I have read spark plug thread
They ran a code check and it needs;
EGR Selenoid (take it off and clean the little piston in it with brake cleaner,push on the piston and clean around it,they usually get dirty and throw the code)
(can I replace these myself?) yes,easy. Just look up a engine diagram and find out where they are,and the way they come off is self explanatory.
Mechanic said not to replace the above with out doing tune-up first. true,egr is probably clogged from the rich condition,and the plugs are probably fouled. Tell him to stick with ac delco parts,not aftermarket. you'll thank me later. (except on the ac compressor)
"Check noise from A/C" needs;
Compressor
Dryer
Orife Tube?
Same question and is it worth paying mechanic price quoted is about two hundred bucks parts included
thats about right.
For sure need new muffler as tail pipe has hole in it was shown an example of a flow master installed on a nice 72 C10 chevy truck to a "Y" with chrome ends nice but not necessary. that c10 is a v8,its going to sound nothing alike lol. If the trucks quiet,dont worry about it.
Driver side window only goes down about four inches and stops- motor works so maybe just actuator? I believe they are built in together,im not sure. on passenger side motor works and window comes down but comes off track and needs to be held in place to go back up and not on track when it goes down You need the little window clips. Look up "HELP! Dorman 45285" thats the parts you will need.
No clue what to buy to fix both window (I did read Giovanni's window thread but still clue less)
Rear glass window will not stay up so I know struts need replacing
and should I and can I replace rear window gate/window latch as it is very loose and or can I just tighten? Its easy to replace,you need to remove the inside panel,metal plate cover (under the panel) and you'll see that the latch is only held in by a spring plate. get a long flathead and a hammer and tap it to the side,then tap it back in after you replace the lock. you'll see what i mean when you do it.
Need to order front tires to match new rear tires---front are 225s and rears 235s put on by previous owner is it ok to run 235s? Eventually would like to put on some black cragar soft eights or other wheels. 235s will fit fine,at least on the 4x4s. If yours is 4x4 keep all the tires the same size.
Oh yes I previously read that these 2.8s leak at the valve cover and I noticed caked up oil and on rear df seal any ideas? rear df? Maybe im slow,iu cant think of what a "df" is right now lol
peace
david in miami
I posted on what i could help on.
Last edited by chris015; Sep 16, 2012 at 02:14 PM.
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 37
From: Miami, Fl
WOW lots of knowledge and thank for replies!
Looking at window post motor and actuator separate unlike my honda odyssey van window that I just had repaired.
On tires it is a 2wd but look ok with 235s in back was just worried about wheel rub when turning
Will start with tune up and parts for it so runs better work on window as it is getting cooler now and I also drive early mornings and late evenings to work (will not drive that much) and A/C work last letting the mechanic handle that later.
Again great advice
Looking at window post motor and actuator separate unlike my honda odyssey van window that I just had repaired.
On tires it is a 2wd but look ok with 235s in back was just worried about wheel rub when turning
Will start with tune up and parts for it so runs better work on window as it is getting cooler now and I also drive early mornings and late evenings to work (will not drive that much) and A/C work last letting the mechanic handle that later.
Again great advice
Ah gotcha. Well,since its getting cooler,and if you wanna save/hold off on spending 200 bucks you can buy a bypass pulley for the compressor. Just have the mechanic drain the freon,if theirs any in it,and throw on the pulley. then later in the spring have the actual work done.
Stick with ac delco parts,get a distributor cap with the brass terminals, Only wires ive found so far i like are napa's,and for plugs if you want a little bit of added throttle response id suggest Ngk v-power plugs. i run them and i love em! they run great in these trucks. Just stay ac delco or ngk on plugs,platinums fine.
If you have oil around the seal on the diff,at the drive shaft,its your pinion seal. Takes longer to jack it up,removing the tires,and the drive shaft then it does to replace the seal. Pry it out with a pair of channel locks,knock in the new seal.
If i were you,id spray some degreaser around it,head up to the car wash and pressure wash it clean,and check the fluid level in in the diff by removing the cap on the passenger side of the diff housing. the fluid level is fine if its level with the bottom of the hole. If not,top it off till it uses. then keep a eye on the leak,if its bad,replace it,or if your like me just wait till it blows lol.
edit :
Make sure you replace the fuel filter,and mybe run a bottle of seafoam through the fuel system.
Stick with ac delco parts,get a distributor cap with the brass terminals, Only wires ive found so far i like are napa's,and for plugs if you want a little bit of added throttle response id suggest Ngk v-power plugs. i run them and i love em! they run great in these trucks. Just stay ac delco or ngk on plugs,platinums fine.
If you have oil around the seal on the diff,at the drive shaft,its your pinion seal. Takes longer to jack it up,removing the tires,and the drive shaft then it does to replace the seal. Pry it out with a pair of channel locks,knock in the new seal.
If i were you,id spray some degreaser around it,head up to the car wash and pressure wash it clean,and check the fluid level in in the diff by removing the cap on the passenger side of the diff housing. the fluid level is fine if its level with the bottom of the hole. If not,top it off till it uses. then keep a eye on the leak,if its bad,replace it,or if your like me just wait till it blows lol.
edit :
Make sure you replace the fuel filter,and mybe run a bottle of seafoam through the fuel system.
Last edited by chris015; Sep 16, 2012 at 04:04 PM.
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 37
From: Miami, Fl
Ok back to square one with the brakes. Drove it around with my daughter this after noon and after several stops brake pedal got hard and went to the floor! Will take to shop and tell guy to check it again. My gut instinct was that it was the booster and all advice was great and even he said "boosters last more than ten years" but if original to car this is 25! Any how will report tomorrow.
Chris I appreciate the responses and will go down the list. Somewhere I read about running chevron with techron and on second bottle now.
peace
Chris I appreciate the responses and will go down the list. Somewhere I read about running chevron with techron and on second bottle now.
peace
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 37
From: Miami, Fl
Car is back at shop and trying to get them to fix brake issue. Said they bled it and worked fine but I do not think they drove it even around the block. I still think it is brake booster. I do not need the car immediately so ok for them to store no their nickel
Finally took plunge and ordered parts for tune up from Rock auto.com.
Thanks Giovanni for discount code.
I priced parts vs advance so I could pick up locally and even with shipping and adding a window regulator for driver side window was still less or same price.
Question...I know I can do tune up no problem including installing egg solenoid and map sensor (have to find where it is on engine;;;doh)
but what are ya'lls thoughts on installing the window regulator and motor?
It was actually 20.00 cheaper to get the whole regulator assembly with motor from rock auto than just buying the Ac deco regulator.
Thanks for any reply
Finally took plunge and ordered parts for tune up from Rock auto.com.
Thanks Giovanni for discount code.
I priced parts vs advance so I could pick up locally and even with shipping and adding a window regulator for driver side window was still less or same price.
Question...I know I can do tune up no problem including installing egg solenoid and map sensor (have to find where it is on engine;;;doh)
but what are ya'lls thoughts on installing the window regulator and motor?
It was actually 20.00 cheaper to get the whole regulator assembly with motor from rock auto than just buying the Ac deco regulator.
Thanks for any reply
Thread Starter
|
Beginning Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 37
From: Miami, Fl
Back and running again...ALMOST...brake booster replaced as was another "valve" and rear drums turned and "vacuum line" fixed. Things are in quotes as they did road test it several times and finally called me to pick it up. No problem with service and brakes work fine it is just different feel with drums and rotors and 25 year old ride vs newer honda/acura.
Any how got drivers side window fixed and replaced motor and regulator. He said it was the motor not the regulator so if someone needs a 1st gen driver side regulator hit me up. Cheap enough to fix and guy was mobile even better he came to me. Checked passenger window too and all parts were fine but actual track in window frame GONE. He said they are hard to find and brittle if found from a junk yard ANY IDEAS?
Today is tune-up and replace egr solenoid and map sensor.
BUT>>>>>
New glitch...
After driving about 45 miles and letting it rest I got back in it and it would not start when tried to turn it over. When I tried several hours later it started right up! Sounds and had been sounding like a fuel problem as I had to push the accelerator like priming it. I read somewhere about when fuel pump heats up and is bad maybe that is the problem.
What do you all think? I was thinking the fuel pump is going bad.
Thanks for all help
Any how got drivers side window fixed and replaced motor and regulator. He said it was the motor not the regulator so if someone needs a 1st gen driver side regulator hit me up. Cheap enough to fix and guy was mobile even better he came to me. Checked passenger window too and all parts were fine but actual track in window frame GONE. He said they are hard to find and brittle if found from a junk yard ANY IDEAS?
Today is tune-up and replace egr solenoid and map sensor.
BUT>>>>>
New glitch...
After driving about 45 miles and letting it rest I got back in it and it would not start when tried to turn it over. When I tried several hours later it started right up! Sounds and had been sounding like a fuel problem as I had to push the accelerator like priming it. I read somewhere about when fuel pump heats up and is bad maybe that is the problem.
What do you all think? I was thinking the fuel pump is going bad.
Thanks for all help
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 37
From: Miami, Fl
Apologies for not doing more research before asking fuel pump question...
Just read it is electronic and located in the fuel tank and as I just filled it up maybe a while before I tackle that one
I read could be fuse or relay and pump but any opinion is still welcome.
Peace
Just read it is electronic and located in the fuel tank and as I just filled it up maybe a while before I tackle that one
I read could be fuse or relay and pump but any opinion is still welcome.
Peace