What sensor is this??
#11
06-23-2012, 08:03 AM
Great, thanks for the info. I have the guage and last couple days and these are some hot Connecticut days, the guage has only been showing a reading steady at say 150 degrees f whe normally it stays at or below 210. Still seems to run the same, infact run good. Antifreeze nice and clean, oil and and clean.....separate as well. Thinking either bad sending unit or thermostat. Here is a pic of passenger side, does this look more accurate? Was not sure if a bad sensor would pop code, but no codes at all stored or flashing.
My truck is doing the exact same thing at first she was running fine...The temp Gage gets to 150 and now i can drive 3 miles and its idling rough jumping everytime i stop and wanting to cut off. So if I replace that temp sensor between those spark plugs will that reset the temp and get it running properly?
All of my fluids are good and oil just changed cleaned the air filter and everything.
#12
06-24-2012, 10:02 AM
So early this morning I swapped the thermostat with a stant superstat. Old one was a bit cruddy, so my hopes were up. However after warming up the truck, the guage read exactly the same, like 140 or 150 degrees f. I put a thermometer into the coolant at radiator cap opening and I was getting a reading of 180-183. I verifyed i did use a 195 stat. Anyhow, so either guage faulty or the coolant sender switch no good. back to the drawing board
#13
06-24-2012, 01:44 PM
okay, replaced the coolant temp switch. sensor on the passender side of head. Man did coolant POUR when I pulled old one out. Crap it poured. Frantically screwed the new one in and ran truck. we'll see. Temp seemed to be bit higher on gauge, maybe 175 ish. Why else would it not read it's normal 200?
#14
06-24-2012, 02:53 PM
To shadow29 I would go with the egr valve before the coolant. Don't see it runnin rough because of temp issue maybe hot but not rough. I would pull it off spray it down with some pb blaster let it sit for a half hour then blow it out make sure you get as much of the blaster out as possible. Chanses are there is some built up carbon holding it open and not letting close when it needs.
To jaystoy I would imagine that it has a air pocket in it being you lost alot of coolant when you pulled the temp switch. I would jack the front end of the truck up as high as possible leave the rad cap off and let it run for awhile(took almost an hr for my t- stat to open) this allows any pockets the chanse to raise to the upper part of the block and make their way out through the open radiator. Or just fill the overflow up and drive it till it gets warm. let it cool down and refill overflow if needed and drive some more untill your overflow level doesn't change. These tbi motors are a pain to burp the system sure wish they would have put a bleeder valve like on the 3.1 motors. Hope this helps the both of you.
To jaystoy I would imagine that it has a air pocket in it being you lost alot of coolant when you pulled the temp switch. I would jack the front end of the truck up as high as possible leave the rad cap off and let it run for awhile(took almost an hr for my t- stat to open) this allows any pockets the chanse to raise to the upper part of the block and make their way out through the open radiator. Or just fill the overflow up and drive it till it gets warm. let it cool down and refill overflow if needed and drive some more untill your overflow level doesn't change. These tbi motors are a pain to burp the system sure wish they would have put a bleeder valve like on the 3.1 motors. Hope this helps the both of you.
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