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1996 Chevy Blazer will not start

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  #1  
Old 01-18-2011, 10:12 PM
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Default 1996 Chevy Blazer will not start

Last friday my blazer started it took a couple tries to start it but it did start let it run for a while shut it off. Saturday I went to start it to go and it wouldn't start. Tested all the fuses all are good. Fuel pump was replaced last year along with starter and battery. I can hear the fuel pump cycle as well. So tested the coil... power to the coil but no power coming from the coil to the distributor so like a dummy instead of having the coil checked first I replaced it the new one same problem. I pulled the ignition control module and had napa test it they tested it 7 times by 2 different people tested ok. So what should I test next? I have been told the pick up coil. I know it is in the distributor. How hard is it to pull the distributor? I have some knowledge but by no means would I call myself a mechanic. I also ran a test today of placing a light on the negative side of the coil and the positive side of the battery turned the key on light came on turn the key over the light went off and stayed off. I am currently not employed so would like to save any $$$$ I can. My neighbor also has a code scanner the only code on the thing was p1351. What test should I be running and on what first since I have been told some many different things could be wrong from the pickup coil to cam sensor,crank sensor to ignition switch. Also is this something that a female can do with basic vehicle repair knowledge be honest will not hurt my feelings. Thanks in advance for any help. Also it has 4.3 vortec,automatic,4wd
 
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:16 PM
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It cranks but no start.. then a couple of trys and then it starts??
 
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:21 PM
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No it doesn't start at all
 
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:32 PM
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do you have power at the starter when cranking?? there should be a smaller gauge wire attatched to the solenoid of the starter. probably purple... tap a test light on it while starting and see if you have power there...the engine should still crank with the 1351 set..
 
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:35 PM
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the dis isnt hard to pull out. you have to take the cap off mark on the fire wall or engine where the rotor points to... pick it up from the base of the dist. and the rotor will spin. mark this is point two... do not attempt to turn over the motor.. b/c your oil pump is slotted for the dist.. and you might end up off a gear....
 
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:40 PM
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the p1351 is possibly in the coil control circuit. not the coil or dist. itself..if the signal of the ignition coil module exceeds 4.5v then itll set a fault.. so you could have a short to voltage somewhere in the harness and or connector.. or you could have an internal malfuntion in the coil module
 
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:51 PM
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I have power to the starter...I checked the wires they all look good and when you test at the plugs the test all come out ok. Is it possible I have a short in the ignition control module even though it check out ok???? I was told when I was a napa by a mechanic next door buying parts that he just had one recently that did test ok but his gut told him to replace it and bingo that was the problem. That stupid part isn't cheap so would really hate to buy it to only find out that it still won't start. Another ??? the distributor does it take a special size tool to remove the cap looks odd to me??? Thanks for your input very much appreciated
 
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Old 01-19-2011, 07:57 AM
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Don't over look the crankshaft sensor. That was why mine wouldn't start.
 
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:50 AM
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Only tests you can really do is:
1. Prob the ignition coil connected terminal b with a voltmeter on the a/c scale. -- it should be within 1-4v
Should be the white wire.
- if that is ok- next you would test terminal c (which is the ground wire)(black wire) connect a test lamp to b+ and prob terminal c
If the test lamp illuminates. Then your grounds ok.
And test the a and d wires with a test lamp youshould have power on each. (pink and white/black)
-- if those circuits test ok. Then you need an ignition control module
The only thing left to check is( only really need to test if you don't have 1-4v at terminal b at the ignition control module):
Turn off the ignition disconnect the gray harness conneter from the vcm and test pin 9 and terminal b at the ignition control module. For less then 10 ohms on this wire. If this checks on that wire. If that tests ok. Check fir a connection problem in that connector. If that test ok. You'll need a vcm. (but this shouldn't and hopefully won't be the case)

Check with your local salvage yard for an ignition control module. This might be cheaper.
 
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:00 AM
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But if the ckp sensor was faulty. Shouldnt it set atleast a p0336 or a different ckp code as well. The p1351 primarily is concerned with the ignition coil module.
 


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