I did as was suggested earlier in the thread and to pull the post cat 02 out. I did but didn't seem to see any difference when trying to start it. Still hard starting and rough idle, about the same as when it was installed.

I guess next is to buy the pressure tester and give that a try.

 

If a clogged cat is suspected, removing the post-cat sensor will not result in a change in the exhaust restriction. One of the pre-cat sensors between the exhaust manifolds and the catalytic converter should be removed.

 

ah OK, I'll give that try tomorrow.
Is there an easy one to get too?

 

Well bought a fuel pressure tester today, hooked it up.
When I turn the key to on (not start), I can hear the pump go and the pressure jumps up to 60. As soon as the pump shuts off, it drops to 0.

That's not right is it?

 

actually I take that back, this stupid harbor freight tester leaks.

 

OK, got the tester to stop leaking.

Here is what I see.
When turned to on, pressure goes up to about 60
Turn the key off, and it starts dropping pressure. after a minute or so, it's down to about 40.

It seems to hold around 30psi after a couple minutes.

When the car is running, it holds steady at 58psi

What should I check next?

 

That doesn't seem right. It shouldn't drop that drastically that fast.

Did you check for leaks? Do the same test but pinch the feed and return line then turn the key off. This will isolate your fuel rail from the rest of the system. If your pressure is good and no drop then check the vacuum line for leaks. If there is no leak then it's likely the check valve in the tank or something else in the tank.

If you see a drop in pressure then it's the FPR or a bad injector. If so visually check these for leaking fuel. If none then you need to check the electronic side of the injectors. These can be performed with noide lights.

Noide lights connect to the injector harness and they'll light if there's a signal to them. That will signal what one failed if there is no light to it.

Be sure to check for leaks anywhere in there. You should only drop a little in pressure and it should hold steady then. Dropping to 30 and then holding doesn't seem right.

And while you're at it. Change your fuel filter. It could be the fuel filter clogged or messed up but very vey unlikely as it shouldn't cause these symptoms but they are supposed to be changed every 30,000 miles so it's a good idea to change it if it hasn't been changed lately.

 

The fuel return line should never be restricted while the pump is running. Checking fuel pressure at the fuel filter outlet accomplishes four things: First and foremost is to avoid exposing the regulator diaphragm to pressures exceeding 75psi, (restricting the return line does exactly that). If/when that happens, the diaphragm will likely rupture. #2 is to check the maximum output pressure of the pump. 1996 through 2005 spec is 73psi to 108psi. Even a borderline pump can destroy the regulator in a heartbeat. #3 is to isolate the pump from the system, not vice versa. The results determine if the leakdown, (if any) is in the tank, or in the plenum. #4 is to make sure the pump check valve can hold sufficient pressure. Fuel pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off.

 

Thanks for the tips, but I'm wondering are there any turtorials/videos that show how to perform these tests? I'm not sure how to do any of these?

 

My method will not cause harm. It is done after the pump has built pressure in the system. The worst that will happen is you find a leak that is not caused by this method. I have done this before and no harm had arrived. All you are doing is holding the pressure in one part of the system.

To make it clear cause I see where the confusion is. You do this after you turn the key to on engine off and the pump is done building pressure.

Again this will not cause harm because all you do is hold pressure in one part of the system and monitoring for a pressure drop.