Stop that! No, you arent dumb.. you got this far.

What I'm pointing out is sometimes you have to step back from the problem and think in a different mode. My previous sig covered that.
Cant hurt to reward lower prices.
Esp for non-essentials.. killed me to buy a Delhi FP for 390 local when RA had it for over $100 less.. but that FP replace was essential for domestic harmony.

So I just made her pay for it.

 

Ha ha. Thanks for the help with this pettyfog. Hopefully I will have the sensor by next weekend and I can tackle the next project after that. Thanks again.

 

So I installed the new sensor today. Like pettyfog suggested, I had to use a washer to keep it from hitting the reluctor wheel in the hub. Everything seemed to go smoothly, except the ABS light is still on! What the heck!! I tested the opposite side sensor to make sure, and it seems to be operating normally. I guess I will have to bite the bullet and get the code read at a shop. One thing though, the info sheet that came with the sensor said that some models need to have the code reset manually. I know I mentioned this earlier, but is this true for blazers/jimmys? This is really side tracking me from the real project, replacing my CV/Lower control arm. Really frustrating.

e: To reiterate, the sensor that I replaced was bad, I tested it again once it was out and it indeed had infinite resistance. The new sensor/other side I didn't have to replace has resistance that falls within spec that is listed in the Haynes manual.

 

How thick was the washer you used? It should be thin as possible without hitting.
Look in the 'DIY' section, I think there's something on testing voltage output on the sensors

As far as I know, there light should reset unless there's another problem, as well.

 

You can try disconecting the battery for a while. But I think the code will go away when everything is ok.

 

The sensor came with a shim that was supposed to make it not hit the wheel. But even with the shim, it still was hitting, so I went to the hardware store and got just a regular washer. Maybe I have to find something thinner, but not sure where, all the ones at the hardware store were the same thickness. I'll stop by Lowes or the Depot and see what they have, this was just a small local shop.

As for testing the voltage output, life issues came up so by the time I had everything back together and took it for a test drive, it was late at night I had to quit for the night. I wasn't in the mood to mess with it anymore. Really frustrating to hit all these roadblocks when I haven't even started the project I intended! The parts have been sitting in my living room for more than a month now. Thanks for the replies, though pettyfog and 50lb cat.

 

I tested the voltage output today on the new sensor I put in a couple weeks ago. The readings were very erratic, and not even close to what they are supposed to be. (350 mV) The reading I was getting seemed to be more "natural" voltage than anything, since there was no change at all when the leads were connected to the sensor connector, with the wheel turning, or connected to nothing at all. The reading jumped around from 35-110, seemingly randomly. Just to be sure I'm not an idiot, I had the voltmeter range on "200 mV". That's correct, right? Yes, I had the selector switch on AC. And when I tried to check the resistance, it was infinite. What the heck is going wrong here? Brand new sensor already bad? I replaced my upper ball joints today, but did not touch the sensor, only removed the bracket that holds the wire to the control arm. I am thinking that I have to call around to ask how much it is to get the code read, or see if I can get a scanner that will read ABS codes if the price is comparable to what the shops want to read the code. I asked Advance if their scanner would read ABS codes, but I already knew the answer would be no.

 

The code that is causing the ABS light is C0221 Right Front WSS Circuit Open or Shorted. So I'm going to do my best to check the wiring up to the EBCM. One question, would the gap between the sensor and the hub reluctor wheel have anything to do with this? I still have the new sensor installed with the washer on it, so the gap may or may not be correct.

edit: Alright, I think I'm confused. I checked for continuity in the wiring between the connector for the sensor and the connector to the EBCM. This was good. So I again tried to check the resistance on the new sensor itself, and it was infinite. I still have the old sensor lying around, and for kicks tried to get its resistance, and it was also infinite. Does the sensor have to be installed in the hub in order to get an accurate reading? In other words, is the reluctor wheel in the hub a part of the circuit that has to be completed in order to get an accurate resistance reading, which in turn would make the truck's computer think the circuit was open? I wonder if when I first removed/replaced the old sensor in the beginning of all this that I just didn't seat it properly or something, which caused the ABS light to go on. Now, with the new sensor installed, I have that washer on it, which is also throwing the gap off.

 

You can test the sensor output with a typical multimeter capable of reading mV-AC output with only disconnecting the sensor at the electrical connection & spinning the wheel. No need to even remove the wheel from the truck, just lift it off the ground. If the mV-AC voltage is not >250mV-AC, then the sensor gap is too high. There is a tech article that explains the procedure & how to correct the gap.

 

Yeah, I've read that tech article a few times.
I was just trying to determine if the sensor gap mattered when testing the sensor resistance. The sensor that is currently installed is brand new (see earlier in thread), so I should be getting some sort of reading when testing resistance, but it's infinite. The reading for AC mV is only something like 15 mV when spinning the wheel, so obviously either the gap is wrong, or the brand new sensor is bad. I wish I had tested it right out of the box. Could the system have fried the new sensor somehow? I think if I end up having to buy another sensor, I'll just get the whole hub assembly so I don't have to deal with gaps and such.

e: Not sure if it makes any difference, but I have these other codes stored in the history: C0226, C0265, C0281