Driver side and driver side rear window
#1
Driver side and driver side rear window
So I have a 95 chevy blazer and about a month ago the driver rear window stop working and now the driver side window doesn't work. I can't get it to go up. When I press the button to go down the lights dim but I won't go up. Any suggestions please
#2
Very common for the master switch, (driver door) to fail. If the window is down when it's raining, water drips into the switch causing it to corrode and eventually fail. They're not cheap, so it's best to check it out first. Dorman - OE Solutions Power Window Switch - Front Left, 5 Button 901-021: Advance Auto Parts#
#3
Amazon lists the same switch for $41.63 ( I had to buy one recently) I would still rule out your switch as the cause though first
#4
Thank you for the suggestions and advice. I'm going to order the switch from amazon and try that first. But would that also cause the rear window on the driver side to fail too
#5
All of the circuits for all 4 windows go through the master switch. A failure in the switch can cause any one or more windows to fail, in the UP, DOWN, or both directions.
#6
The switch design is poor at best. I was able to take the master switch apart and clean the contact points and all is good once again. The new switch is of the same design and will have the same problem as time goes by.
The most difficult part was getting the connectors off of the switch body....requires lots of prying around with a flat blade screwdriver in order to get the blasted connectors off!
These connectors have to come off even if you are just replacing the switch body.
The switch contacts are made by twisting the terminals of each switch to a stainless steel "circuit board." All it takes is a pair of needle nose pliers, a few Q Tips, 90% alcohol. You easily un-twist the switch contacts, clean the areas with the Q Tips and alcohol and then easily twist the switch contacts back IN THE SAME DIRECTION, otherwise they will break. Takes about 30 minues to clean everything. Re-install and check the operation.
The most difficult part was getting the connectors off of the switch body....requires lots of prying around with a flat blade screwdriver in order to get the blasted connectors off!
These connectors have to come off even if you are just replacing the switch body.
The switch contacts are made by twisting the terminals of each switch to a stainless steel "circuit board." All it takes is a pair of needle nose pliers, a few Q Tips, 90% alcohol. You easily un-twist the switch contacts, clean the areas with the Q Tips and alcohol and then easily twist the switch contacts back IN THE SAME DIRECTION, otherwise they will break. Takes about 30 minues to clean everything. Re-install and check the operation.
#7
Driver side and driver side rear window
Hey there. So I have a 95 chevy blazer the driver side window won't go up. So I replaced the master switch and that didn't work. Does anyone have any suggestion on what it might be. Do you think I need to replace the motor. Any help please. I've been with a non working window for the last two weeks and I don't know what to do
#8
I assume the fuse is good since the other 3 windows work fine; then time to check to make sure there is voltage to the driver's window switch and then to the window motor. Yes it could be time for a new motor...which is a real PITA to replace.... or the connector may just be dirty or loose.
Going to have to remove the door panel and get in there. Plenty of youtube videos available. Also I think 1AAuto has a video on replacing the window motor/regulator unit. Easier to replace the entire unit, but costs more. Depends upon your mechanical ability and how much effort you want to put into this.
Let us know what we can do to help.
Going to have to remove the door panel and get in there. Plenty of youtube videos available. Also I think 1AAuto has a video on replacing the window motor/regulator unit. Easier to replace the entire unit, but costs more. Depends upon your mechanical ability and how much effort you want to put into this.
Let us know what we can do to help.
Last edited by LannyL81; 05-16-2015 at 09:04 AM.
#9
Quick update: yes there is a video on 1AAuto.com on replacing the window motor/regulator assembly. Couple of comments on the video:
1. To me it is much easier to drill out the riviets than using a cold chisel. Just need to be somewhat careful to not hit the door glass with the drill bit. I think it would require some effort to hit the glass, but Murphy's Laws apply to everything.
2. I think to just replace the motor, the regulator has to come out anyways. When I did my '95 driver's door I replaced the entire assembly, but it is twice the price. To replace just the motor one has to deal with the coiled lift spring which require CARE so as to not loose a finger or two!!! Springs are very dangerous things!!!
3. I did not watch all of the 1AAuto video, but I think he uses bolts inplace of the large rivets as the large rivets require a large rivet gun. Harbor Freight has the large rivet gun complete with rivets for about $20. So not a large investment. I wanted to use rivets as bolts can come loose. I think 1AAuto uses nylon lock nuts...so be sure to use these if not rivets.
But check that voltage is at the motor before doing anything further.
Again good luck.
1. To me it is much easier to drill out the riviets than using a cold chisel. Just need to be somewhat careful to not hit the door glass with the drill bit. I think it would require some effort to hit the glass, but Murphy's Laws apply to everything.
2. I think to just replace the motor, the regulator has to come out anyways. When I did my '95 driver's door I replaced the entire assembly, but it is twice the price. To replace just the motor one has to deal with the coiled lift spring which require CARE so as to not loose a finger or two!!! Springs are very dangerous things!!!
3. I did not watch all of the 1AAuto video, but I think he uses bolts inplace of the large rivets as the large rivets require a large rivet gun. Harbor Freight has the large rivet gun complete with rivets for about $20. So not a large investment. I wanted to use rivets as bolts can come loose. I think 1AAuto uses nylon lock nuts...so be sure to use these if not rivets.
But check that voltage is at the motor before doing anything further.
Again good luck.
#10
Another input: when my '95 Blazer driver's door window failed, it was not the motor, it was one of the plastic rollers or wheels that runs in the track. The wheel had sheared off of it's axle or pin. That is why I had to replace the entire window regulator. In fact I just looked and I still have the original door motor out of my ole '95 sitting on a shelf....guess I never throw anything away that still works!
If you need just a motor, be glad to send it to you.
If you need just a motor, be glad to send it to you.