'97 blazer, "w" code according to v.i.n. has the "spider" fuel injection system, i have a code of p0330, a search led me to a knock sensor on the passenger side, cannot seem to find it, i did a compression check of the right bank and got arond 150 on all 3, plugs looked good, getting spark at all 3 on right bank. engine ran fine for the wife when she went to pick up my child from shcool, when she started it to go home it ran rough and the ses light started flashing. where is this bank2 sensor at? the only picture i found shows only one sensor and its near the distributor. anything that would throw a "P0330" code? it sounds like its only running on 3 0r 4 cylinders. engine has around 187,000 miles, had a tune up over a year ago. i did check out the egr valve, looked to be closed, cleaned it the best i could. dont know if a block-off plate would solve anything. back out side to tinker some more....any help/thoughts would be helpfull, thanks. Dave. on edit: havent had any luck yet with this, any damage possible by running it the way it is? i know it will burn more fuel, but i may not have much of a choice. had to happen in the middle of the week, too.

 

well at the moment its back hittin on all 6 like it should, no ses light, nice idle. and the fix.....id have never believed it myself. dad called me up & said to check the inside of the dist cap for carbon tracks & the distributor shaft bearing for play. i thought b.s. on the cap, cap & rotor were new a little over a year ago, pulled the cap anyways, looked normal, sure there was some evidence of arcing at the internal contacts, but ive seen the internal contacts wore almost clean away on a car once and it ran just fine. no play in the dist shaft bearing. but what happend was the t when i pulled off the cap i dropped one of those hold-down screws, they aint held to the cap captive like some of yesterday were. couldnt find it, i figured id just go ahead and get another cap/rotor (if only because of a lost screw) got to the parts store 2 min before they close, 50 bucks for a cap /rotor? ouch! (i do think thats ridiculous) put it all back together, not thinking it might actually work. (when i told the wife i was headed out for a cap/rotor, she asked if that would fix it, i said "probly not") well, lo and behold it did fix it. (at least as far as i know) now what i dont understand is that this problem came on suddenly, after running fine all day, then it sits for 10 min and on a hot start runs like 4 plug wires had been switched. if it had done it first thing in the morning, esp after a lot of rain, i may have jumped right on a cap/rotor. well, i hope to leave this stress headache issue behind me. maybe this will help someone else, you never know...

 

Hey, if it's any consolation, I had a bad cap & rotor completely kill my Blazer on the road. It was running fine and simply stalled out and wouldn't start again. After an $85 tow bill and slapping a used cap on in place of the one that came with my distributor (which showed some wear but no carbon tracks) the truck started right up. Drove it for a month or so until I bought a brand new cap & rotor. Glad I saved a decent used one...

The whole distributor w/cap was a little over a year old. I have also had to replace the coil, which cleared up a persistent PO300 code, and have done the plugs and wires twice during the 100,000 miles I have driven the car.

My previous Blazer (Jimmy, actually) was a '94, and I remember changing that cap & rotor a number of times too. These guys just seem to be rough on distributor caps...

peace