In My 1995 Jimmy I replaced the rod bearings with the motor in the vehicle.
The front diff didn't have to come all the way out as I have read in the past.
What I did was start by undoing both outer tie rod ends at the spindles, then I unbolted
The steering box and moved everything as far forward as it would go. The next step was to
to unbolt the right side axle from the diff and push it out as far as it would go. That gives You enough room to drop the right side of the diff down out of the way. As far as getting the bolt for the diff mount out on the left side where it's in the frame rail all I did was open the bottom of the hole up about 1/4 in. which provided plenty of room to get an 18 mm box wrench on the nut, without taking anything else apart. After this is done the pan will drop out no problem. As far as unbolting the diff, that's pretty straight forward. Hope this helps someone.

 

still seems a ton of work, but less than pulling the motor! good info to know.

 

It's WAY less work. It might sound like a lot but it really doesn't take very long at all.
I think it's MUCH easier than pulling the motor. I do have a lift, though.

 

Hey thanks for posting. Its great info, already bookmarked for when I have to do mine.

 

Thanks for posting !

 

Mcquire -
If you could post some more detail as to oil pan
Removal and or some pictures - Greatly appreciate it.

 

To All -

With Remove/Replace Oil Pan with Engine Installed.
When installing the Oil Pan Gasket / Silicone Sealant to the Oil Pan
mating surfaces are their suggested methods of doing this since
you are working from under the Engine vs atop the Engine if it
were assembled using a Engine Stand ? . ? . ?

 

The only place I use sealant(Permatex Ultra Black) is the inside corners of the front and rear seals. Being a molded rubber gasket this is the only place it's necessary.