So I've seen many threads on rear wiper issues, but none that I was able to find really spoke of a great fix so I just started tinkering.

For some contest, my wiper failed to function one day and jammed up on the window. Since that point bumps, brake lights and turn signals would sometimes trigger a clicking sound in the back of the car.

So here's a refined step by step with pictures when I remembered to take them. Assuming you have the part already with you, you can get this done in 60-90min.

You will need:
-Socket set (metric and imperial)
-Screw driver (Flat and Phillips)
-Multi-meter (optional)
-Lock-tight
-A small dish to contain all the screws (Optional)

1. Remove the back hatch trim. To do this locate the one bolt located under the pull handle. I think I read somewhere that it is a T27 but I found a flat head screwdriver that fit perfectly since I don't have bits up to that size (If you use the flat head method be careful not to strip the head)

After removing the bolt (it has lock-tight on it so it may require a bit of force to pop it) find the edges of the panel and give it a yank to pop the clips holding it to the interior body panel. Work along the edges until all are free and set this aside.

2. Unplug the wiper relay from the main power.
-It is at this point I would recommend using a multi-meter to assure you are getting power to the relay and from the relay to the motor before proceeding

3. Close the hatch and remove the decorative/dust cap that covers the wiper bolt. and carefully disconnect your wash hose
Undo the nut inside using a socket wrench (sizes vary). It may take some effort to pop it as it has lock-tight on it. Set aside the arm and bolt if you plan to reuse them.

4. Next you will need a 1" socket head to undo the plastic threaded fastener that is around the wiper motor head. Be careful not to strip the head as it is plastic.

Remove that and the plastic offset below


5. Open the hatch and find the two 10mm bolts holding the silver metal bracket to the hatch. This will have the wiper motor and wiper relay attached to it. Use a small socket wrench to get under the black riveted bracket


6. Carefully remove the wiper motor assembly from the hatch. Remember your washer hose is plumed near the wiper so its feed hose is up in the same region you're working. You may also need to detach the back glass hatch actuator to have enough room to slide the motor assembly out past the bracket and wires


7. Assuming your relay is good (as in my case) detach the motor from the bracket with the two screws they are T27's so again I used the flat head screwdriver trick.


8. On the new motor, remove the protective rubber and plastic from shipping. Take the rubber seat from the old motor (if they are in good shape) from the end of the motor as well as where the wiper arm attaches. Clean them before putting them on the new motor



Here is new and old



Now to do it all in reverse (Reference above pictures as needed).

1. Attach the new motor into the bracket of the old motor using the same hardware.

2. Carefully reinsert the motor assembly back into its place and loosely attached its bolts. Close the hatch carefully and insure the rubber fitting around the wiper arm head isn't pinched by the body work before you finish tightening the two bolts.

3. Plug in the wires for the wiper motor and the relay and if you had to detach the rear glass release actuator, re-install it now

4. Add the plastic spacer and 1" fastener to the wiper arm head. Be careful not to break the threads by over tightening as the fitting is plastic.

5. Start the car and test all speeds of the wiper motor to ensure you're set. Ensure you turn your wiper off before turning the car off to ensure the wiper motor is in its "resting" position. You may also want to flush wiper fluid through at this point to ensure dust hasn't clogged the opening (if you had to drive a few days with it exposed during the repair process).

6. Place your wiper arm on the wiper arm head and let the wiper arm rest on its rest bracket. Add lock-tight to the wiper arm head and nut before tightening.

7. Re-insert the washer fluid tube and the nut dust cap.

8. (you may want a second set of hands for this) Take the rear trim panel and line up the two guild pins to the holes in the interior. Once lined up you will have to give the panel a few good smacks with a fist or rubber mallet along the edges to pop all the clips back into place.

9. Re-apply the screw located under the pull handle

10. Test your handy work and enjoy the money you've saved


That should do it. This repair cost me about $67 (part purchased from Carparts.com) as opposed to the $288 the dealership wanted for the part or $600 for the part and work