Hi,

Per the title above, our 2001 Blazer LT 4WD, 4.3L V6, 80K miles, won't start.. =)

Starter is okay and dandy..
Battery is newer and okay and dandy..

I think I have a good idea where to begin - here are some observations:

1.) The steering column shift lever does not spring back by itself after moving the arm through gears..

In the past, in order to get truck to start, I'd have to make sure the shift lever was pushed towards the dash, in "Park", in order to get ignition to start since the "spring" in the shift lever arm no longer springs back after selecting gears - is there some kind of safety interlock feature to prevent starting in positions other than "Park"?

2.) Used to run tank down to almost empty (I know - bad for fuel pump): thinking this might need to be replaced, too..

3.) Changing fuel filter is on list..

4.) We will he freshening up all disposable ignition and starting components: cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.. (we live in a very rainy climate and understand distributor cap can get damp and has not been replaced for 20yrs, along with most other components being of that "vintage".. =)

Our poor Blazer has been sitting for a year, too - what other things can we do to minimize any initial starting (engine) damage after sitting so long?

My son and I are going through everything and will be replacing most "disposable" and easily accessible components ourselves - we have limited tools and just a driveway to work in (no lifts, ramps, etc)..

What are some essential tools we need to start our "Pandemic Project"? =)

 

Does it turn over/crank and won’t start or the starter will not energize?

There is a switch on the side of the transmission that will only allow the starter to energize if the transmission is in park or neutral.

If it turns over (since you said starter is good):

Does the fuel smell bad, like varnish? It might need to be replaced.

does it have 1” of strong blue spark at the plug end of the wires while cranking?

Does the truck pass the fuel pressure test in the sticky?

Any codes?



George

 

Looks like George has got you on the starting issue.

1/4" driver (screwdriver handle that small socket fits on a shaft sticking out of it) https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3pkAA...Fi/s-l1600.jpg
1/4" socket set with at least 1/4", 9/32", 5/16", 11/32", 3/8" sockets
3/8" ratchet to 1/4" drive socket adapter.
3/8 drive metric socket set + ratchet + extensions + swivel joint (10mm - 18mm)
3/8 drive metric deep sockets (10mm-18mm)
5/8" swivel spark plug socket (get a good one with thin walls)
Combination wrench set (10mm-18mm)
Screwdrivers
Pliers
Vice grips
Test light
Digital Volt/Ohm meter
OBD2 Scanner capable of reading enhanced GM PIDs.

 

Hi Les,

Thanks for the shopping list..


Bart.. =)

 

Hi George -

Thanks for your reply..

At last try, the engine turns over and cranks..

* We haven't started our project yet and am just gathering info, tools and parts at this point; keeping your suggestions for the near future..

Are there any electronic safety components in the steering column, related to the gear selector arm, that might be causing this?

* I've noted the "switch on the side of the transmission" you suggested..

I used to have to "wiggle" the gear shift lever a bit and make sure the metal arm was pushed all the way forward (since spring return is worn out) to get "Bart To Start"..

The "wiggling" worked for a couple of years, but, was thinking some "safety feature" or "switch" in the steering column, related to the gear selector arm, has finally just gone completely, "kaplooie" - maybe this is the "switch on the side of the transmission"?

In addition to the transmission, are there any other electronic safety switches/components which might prevent starting? (like in the steering column, etc)..


Bart.. =)

 

There is a solenoid in the column that only allows you to move the shifter lever out of park if the brake pedal is depressed. There is a position sensor on the side of the transmission that only allows the starter to engage if the transmission is in neutral or park. The only thing that defeats the ignition on purpose is the security system.


George

 

Hi George -

Thanks for that; appreciate your help..

It's just the info we need to get started..


Bart.. =)

 

If we were to go through our whole truck and renew ALL electronic components related to the ignition, starting system and fuel delivery systems (safety switches, solenoids, etc, etc) what are those components and are there any of the components which, realistically, given limited tools, diagnostic equiipment and working in our driveway, might be hard to replace?

The reason for doing this is - "Bart" has been living outside, ungaraged, for 10 years and exposed to the weather; thinking this has been hard on electronic components, wires, etc..

What kind of project is changing out a fuel pump? (located in tank)

Any specialized tools needed?

Anything potentially above the "pay grade" of a reasonably educated, layman, amateur, mechanic and son/assistant? =)

Cap
Rotor
Wires
Plugs
?
?
?

 

Also, if we were to renew all the disposable belts; what do we need and are any special tools needed?

Thanks again, in advance (vacuum advance?) for all your answers..


Bart.. =)

 

and..

one more thing..

Looking at using OEM parts; GM, AC DELCO, etc..

Things we can order off Amazon, etc, and have delivered..

Any other suggestions for great, QUALITY, parts?