* By ALL electronic components - I mean ones which typically wear-out, fail over time, etc..

Ones which would be typically replaced and "couldn't hurt" just replacing, due to age - working or not (may as well do while another component is removed, etc, while easier to access, etc)..

 

My 2002 Blazer has spent most of its 18 year life outdoors in Florida and I don’t think that a single component has failed because of that. The interior dash etc is a different story. It’s up to you if you want to replace so many parts but your time may be better served by determining any failed components through proper targeted diagnosis. To that end, look at the fuel pressure test in the forum sticky.

George

 

Hi George -

Thanks for your reply and taking the time to answer questions..

I should have posted/explained the "reason" for replacing "ALL" (not necessarily) the electronics, belts, etc, etc - even if not worn out..

I'd like to approach this project, with my son, as an experience for him and I during all this pandemic stuff - completely going through "Bart The Blazer", taking things apart, installing new components, etc and learning how our truck works..

I'd like for my son and I to appreciate taking care of a "modern" (electronics and computer-dependent) vehicle..

It would also just be neat to "renew" our Blazer - restore it.. =)

A lot of parts aren't that expensive..

I appreciate and subscribe to your approach of diagnosing things and working backwards from there; looking at simplest things, first, which might go wrong, be defective, etc..

That is the BEST way to approach figurin' out any problem.. =)

I have worked on a few "old cars" before (1960's/70's) - nothing like a 2001 Chevy Blazer, though (other than basic maintenance, etc)..

** if anyone could walk us through or point out any interesting YouTube, etc, videos to get us on the right path, we'd appreciate it.. =) **

- What are the complete electronic components of 2001 Blazer 4.3L V6 ignition/starting/fuel systems we could replace?
- What are common electronic sensors, etc, which fail for this year and engine?
- What kind of SPECIALTY tools do you need to do any of this work (I noted "Torx" for distributor cap and rotor)?
- Any suggestions for "tried and true" (safe) UPGRADES, or modifications, to improve fuel efficiency/mileage - computer upgrades, etc?

** Thanks for your time, in advance and hope everyone stays safe/has a great rest of the week. **


Bart.. =)

 

These trucks have two areas that can be improved that routinely need to be addressed in high mileage vehicles:

The lower intake manifold gaskets which eventually fail causing coolant to leak out or into the oil. Use only the top Felpro gasket.

Fails less often but is replaced routinely, the fuel injector spider using the upgraded MPI spider which has less problems than the original design.

There is much written here about both of them.

Check the condition of the brake pads and replace if necessary. I don’t rebuild disk brake calipers anymore, just use rebuilds.

Distr cap, rotor, plugs and wires if in bad shape. Use all AC Delco only.

Fuel pump if you fail the fuel pressure sticky test, using only AC Delco or Delphi.

Idler arm if loose.




George