Well, as Tim (hanr3) suggested, you have to verify the 3 eccential things necessary for combustion. Namely fuel, air & spark.

So the OP (original poster) has ruled out fuel supply as the problem, but has spark been verified? I recommend the use of a spark tester, but you can perform a spark test by removing a plug wire and putting another sparkplug into it, ground out the plug in some way as to not have your hands anywhere near the plug, and attempt to start the engine. I have a test wire with aligator clips on either end that I use for grounding things like this. Allows me to be quite a bit away fromplug while I'm testing. Also allows me to position it so I can see it through the windsheild if someone else isn't there to help out. High energy ignition systems don't feel good... LOL

Anyway, as Tim also suggested, if you have spark, you have to find out if it is in time with the rest of the engine. With the electronic advance that our trucks use, sensors control when the spark happens. Things could be messed up in one of the sensors, causing the timing to be less than optimal for starting.

Air... If you crack the throttle with your foot, does the truck start better? or unchanged? If it starts up, then you may have a problem with the IAC valve not allowing the appropriate amount of air for startup. When the throttle is closed, the IAC (idle air control) valve meters the air into the engine to control idle speed.

Just some food for thought.

 

OK guys,
I finally got her running again. hairline crack in distributor. Had to take the cap off and twist it a bit to see the crack. She is stalling after she's warmed up and I come to a stop. All the plug wires are on exactly as I pulled them off. Thoughts?? Thanks in advance.

Vern

 

Hairline crack in the distributor, or the distributor cap?

 

Hey guys,
I guess I sould have clarified in my last post, it was the cap with the crack in it. Sorry about that.