1995 Blazer dies after warmed up
#1
1995 Blazer dies after warmed up
ok, I am making a new thread because of new details:
the car can not drive for more than 15 minutes before it dies down and wont hold steady idle after that... until the car is cold again
there is a SES code for camshaft position sensor... which I believe is under the distributor?
I pulled the intake off of the manifold after it died once and there was smoke coming out of the manifold
the car has smoked out the tailpipe grey and black
the check engine light is literally clearing when the car dies and then comes back on
the tachometer will bounce like crazy and go all the way past redline without the engine revving that high..
the car will backfire after the 15 minutes
I just have to say that the car is PERFECTLY fine for that 15 minutes, then it does all this..
and the car will not get back to its non starting state when all this started.. the only thing I did was change the fuel filter for that..
can the camshaft position sensor do all this? if so I am buying a whole new distributor too as I need one...
the car can not drive for more than 15 minutes before it dies down and wont hold steady idle after that... until the car is cold again
there is a SES code for camshaft position sensor... which I believe is under the distributor?
I pulled the intake off of the manifold after it died once and there was smoke coming out of the manifold
the car has smoked out the tailpipe grey and black
the check engine light is literally clearing when the car dies and then comes back on
the tachometer will bounce like crazy and go all the way past redline without the engine revving that high..
the car will backfire after the 15 minutes
I just have to say that the car is PERFECTLY fine for that 15 minutes, then it does all this..
and the car will not get back to its non starting state when all this started.. the only thing I did was change the fuel filter for that..
can the camshaft position sensor do all this? if so I am buying a whole new distributor too as I need one...
#2
Now.. let me get this straight. When you sprayed starter fluid in it it would run temporarily? But not start otherwise.
Why do you 'need a new distributor anyway'?
Why do you 'need a new distributor anyway'?
#3
after I the car died the first time it wouldnt start at all for the rest of the day, unless I sprayed starter fluid in there, and the car would get that way after I tried to start it after it died, but no more
and I need a new distributor because the screw holes on the distributor housing cracked and fell off, the little hoops on it on one side fell off, the cap is being held on by two zip ties.
but I must say that the car does NOT get to the point of needing starter fluid anymore, since I changed the fuel filter..
and I need a new distributor because the screw holes on the distributor housing cracked and fell off, the little hoops on it on one side fell off, the cap is being held on by two zip ties.
but I must say that the car does NOT get to the point of needing starter fluid anymore, since I changed the fuel filter..
#4
Okay.. I understand, now. Pardon us for following the fuel pressure trail.
Obviously the way the tach is acting it definitely point to ign and either the dist pickup or less likely the Ign module.
Watch this even tho it is by Wells.. and pay CLOSE attention to Dist removal and installation if you want the truck to start at all when you're done.
DO NOT turn engine at all with dist removed!
- ESP the rotor position marking both seated and as rotor comes free of cam gear. If you are very careful you should not need to turn the pump shaft at all to get it to seat.. assuming old and new gear/oil drive slot match exactly. but they probably wont.
Chev / GMC Misfire, poppet injector diagnosis, troubleshooting and replacement - YouTube
Obviously the way the tach is acting it definitely point to ign and either the dist pickup or less likely the Ign module.
Watch this even tho it is by Wells.. and pay CLOSE attention to Dist removal and installation if you want the truck to start at all when you're done.
DO NOT turn engine at all with dist removed!
- ESP the rotor position marking both seated and as rotor comes free of cam gear. If you are very careful you should not need to turn the pump shaft at all to get it to seat.. assuming old and new gear/oil drive slot match exactly. but they probably wont.
Chev / GMC Misfire, poppet injector diagnosis, troubleshooting and replacement - YouTube
#5
new distributor and camshaft position sensor, and nothing changed....
#6
Im almost in the same boat, and quite honestly, ready to drive the blazer into the lake. I had the CPS relearned, and it does same thing. Will idle for the first few minutes, although still misfiring, and then it will not idle, and misses like crazy.
#7
No this thing is not misfiring.
can someone PLEASE help?
the car backfired out the intake yesterday when running bad, could the new injector still be bad?
can someone PLEASE help?
the car backfired out the intake yesterday when running bad, could the new injector still be bad?
#8
took the car in to have the fuel pressure tested, and after weeks of this issue the car stopped doing it.... all day this car has done nothing but run right... I cant do anything to get it to constantly act up today, it has had a couple of hitches, and the the tachometer was a bit shakey, but it only died like once and that was in motion and it kicked back up...
pulled the codes again and it still has the P1100, the MAP sensor.... could that be whats causing this? last time I pulled the codes I accidentally had the thing unplugged so I figured thats what caused it...
pulled the codes again and it still has the P1100, the MAP sensor.... could that be whats causing this? last time I pulled the codes I accidentally had the thing unplugged so I figured thats what caused it...
#9
the car is easily acting up again,
here is the thing, when it died today and wouldnt hold idle, I blocked off the air tube to the drivers side valve cover and the car could idle and drive better, but wasnt driving perfectly, just enough to limp it home
is this truck supposed to have 2 PCV valves? because the drivers side is just an empty tube straight into the head
and the passenger side has a PCV valve and its very loose
here is the thing, when it died today and wouldnt hold idle, I blocked off the air tube to the drivers side valve cover and the car could idle and drive better, but wasnt driving perfectly, just enough to limp it home
is this truck supposed to have 2 PCV valves? because the drivers side is just an empty tube straight into the head
and the passenger side has a PCV valve and its very loose
#10
just paid another $100 for the MAP sensor and that didnt do anything...
the curious thing is that when the car was not able to hold an idle I pulled the grey connector on the PCM when the car was running and it died, and when it started back up it ran fantastic for the rest of the day...
there is absolutely no way I can test the PCM right?
the curious thing is that when the car was not able to hold an idle I pulled the grey connector on the PCM when the car was running and it died, and when it started back up it ran fantastic for the rest of the day...
there is absolutely no way I can test the PCM right?
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