Im not a mechanic but dont mind getting my mits dirty. im have fun learning the way to TDC my S10 which i have successfully completed. i however removed the old distributor prior to TDC my vehicle.
ive read watched and listen to multiple sources noting to mark old distributor while seated and when pulled out half way to make my marks.... and attempt to match up the new distributor with markings etc... as well as finding the small number six and line up rotor tab. i did not see the number six and looked several times, i know its tiny.. however, the big problem is that i removed the old distributor...made markings and removed it before TDC. So these marking mean nothing. Where do I start? any advice would be greatly appreciated.
im praying for answers and hopefully getting this truck to run correctly before im completely broken. Also spoke with Advance Auto guy whom notes to reach out to captain jack threads posts etc he is very informative... only problem is im new to this and made attempts but was unable to retrieve any information from Captain Jack posts.
Thanks Guys!
Last edited by STenHeadache; 11-07-2018 at 02:40 PM.
Reason: add info
Drop a photo of the distributor rotor. You may have the "<" extrusion casted in the body instead of the digit.
I think You have several options:
- put back the old one, aligned with marks, and then rotate the crankshaft with a socket onto the balancer to get to the #1
- remove the plug and use endoscope (or, as a last resort, the plastic zip-tie) to set the TDC #1
- use the mark that is on the balancer wheel, which should match with the casted extrusion on the vertical side of the engine block
- install a new distributor (if there is a visible mark)
If You can't see the mark on neither of them, You may also check at which peg the rotor should be pointing on TDC #1. I can't recall that now But I am sure You can google it.
If You misalign the distributor a bit (like a tooth) , You will get a rough start and the code. Then You may try to move one tooth forward or backward. Best if You have a dongle, that reads the cam retard value, like BAFX.
First we need to determine which engine you have. 1995 was definitely a transition year. You could have either a LB4 (TBI) or a L35 (CPI) engine and also have OBD1 vs OBD2 emissions (or something in-between). Please post the 8th digit of your VIN# and read on emissions label under hood what emissions your vehicle uses (ie OBD1, OBD2).
All 1995 S-series SUVs had the CPI engine. The later OBD1.5 & OBD2-ish models were equipped with the newer EDI system (horizontal spark plug wire towers on the cap) while the earlier models were OBD1 which had a more traditional HEI type ignition system (vertical spark plug wire towers on the cap).
Given the vertical towers, the engine can be timed using a timing light and rotating the distributor itself after loosening the hold down bolt, but given that the timing advance is done electronically, the timing advance wire must be disconnected before attempting to fine tune the timing. This wire is located under the dash to the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. There should be a single wire with a connector that is just below the top edge of the carpeting in that area. If my memory is correct, it is a brown wire with a black stripe.