hi just got this blazer a couple weeks ago and i like it so far. today all of a sudden it just died at a redlight. started it back up and drove fine till the next stop. started it agian but this time the rmps held at like three grand by themself for like 15 sec than died so wated for the light to change than started it and put it right in gear to get goin. iam thinking it might be a throtle position sensor but iam not sure to maybe someone can give me a good place to start..

thanks

 

It does sound an awful lot like a TPS, a buddy of mine's mustang did that and it was his TPS and his timing was retarded a few degrees.

 

I'm having a similar problem, except mine only does it while warm.

I've also been told to check out the TPS sensor, amongst other things...

 

well what other things do you think i should check because i think we may have the same issue. when i went to pull it into the garage today it ran fine maybe because it was cold. i never did let it warmup to see if the problem came. i ran into another issue that iam goin to start another thread about though.

 

idle air control valve. little guy that lives on the side of the throttle body and allows more or less air in depending on engine speed/heat.
if she's gummed up, it could be choking out your engine either sticking open or closed.

it's i wire harness to unplug (under the upper air cleaner housing) and 2 T20 torx head screws to pull out. then it just wiggles free. it has 1 o-ring and is shaped like a peni...mushroom. shine her up nice. it should move in and out.

search it up! there might be a shake test (or thats for the IAC ) and you can test to see if it's smoked but hooking up your multi meter. it has 4 pins, check the first 2 (far left) and the last two (on the right) it should have a resistance between 40 and 80 ohms. (mine was 51/47) so long as that checks out, it could just be carbon built up gumming her up. carb cleaner and a scrub down. dont forget the hole it goes back into.

then again i could be way off but you wanted to know potential other things

 

k thatks alot i will gove that a try. that was my first thought an iac being gummed but my buddy that has only ownd s10s told me all it had was a tps but i will take ur word for it and take a look at it tomarrow morning when i get off work. already bought the tps but didnt put it on cause i was busy trying to locate a electrical issue that i have a differant thread about.

 

idkif this helps or means anything but there is no check engine light on

 

a check engine light would help (as it would point out where something is bad) but doesn't necessarily mean anything is better/worse.

as for my if the tps doesn't help, you can check the iac. or iac first, then tps. either way, with my limited knowledge, both make sense....

good luck man and keep us posted!

 

I'm not sure if this helps but when we finished replacing the lower intake gasket on my 00 blazer, we forgot to hook up the MAF sensor and air temp sensor and the truck would start, but wouldn't idle. if we gave it gas to around 3k RPM, it'd run for a min, spit and sputter then die. Once we realized what had happened, we plugged em back in and she was fine

Possibly the MAF sensor being bad or connection to it? (just thought I'd throw in a similar experience with a different result as to the culprit)

 

Taking a look at the MAF sensor would be easy enough, even if you didn't clean it. Here's an article on that: https://blazerforum.com/m_145331/tm.htm

This is the article that (I think) has my idle-stall-when-warm issue fixed...
EGR Valve Cleaning: https://blazerforum.com/forum/article-submissions-discussions-47/how-egr-valve-cleaning-discussion-thread-18901/ Its a good thing to do regardless. Even if it turns out it didn't fix my issue, I still have better mileage and a notice increase in power @ all revs.

The other thing thats easy to do, and might be a fix is some Fuel System Cleaner (Techron is supposedly the best, but I sprung for the STP cus I'm cheap like that ). Clogged injectors can stall you when idle, and running a couple courses of cleaner through a couple tanks may fix it and certainly wouldnt hurt.

*edit* I almost forgot the ICM (Ignition Control Module). Either the dealer or autozone n the like will test that for free. Its easy to take off in the 95+ models, because its no longer under the distributor cap. It lives on a bracket attached to the passenger side of the throttle body on my 95.