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1996 Jimmy won't start in cold

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  #11  
Old 11-27-2012, 10:39 PM
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Clean you're IAC valve!
 
  #12  
Old 11-27-2012, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by richphotos
have you tried priming the pump, turn the key to the on position until you hear the pump stop running, then try starting it?
and did it start fine before the new starter?
I have tried priming the pump. It helps when the truck is warm but not cold. When it is cold it barely hits and rarely picks up and runs.
All this happened the morning after I replaced the starter. I'm thinking coincidence. But It is possible I messed something up.
 
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshs4x4
Clean you're IAC valve!
I will definitely check into this.
 
  #14  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:16 AM
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I'd check engine temp / coolant temp and intake air circuits.

Since you feel this problem began right after the starter R&R look for any broken or disconnected vacuum lines, esp. to the emissions systems if you're getting a DTC for it.
 
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Ugh_97LS
I'd check engine temp / coolant temp and intake air circuits.

Since you feel this problem began right after the starter R&R look for any broken or disconnected vacuum lines, esp. to the emissions systems if you're getting a DTC for it.
Funny you say this because temperature gauge in truck didn't get over about 120 degrees today. Needle barely rose. Once again I had to roll start the truck also.
 
  #16  
Old 11-28-2012, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by thanny72
Got a tip I could have a leaking injector. I looked into the throttle body and looked black. Except on the right(drivers) side there was a little gold discoloration. Carbon looked slightly thinner in fact. Possibly some washing. This could be my problem? if so what actions would I take?
The fuel pressure and leakdown test will detect leaky injectors. The test covers the entire fuel delivery system, it's simple to do, takes about 15 minutes, and it's free.
 
  #17  
Old 11-29-2012, 11:46 AM
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Truck left me stranded yesterday so I had to put it in the shop. Got a call today and was informed that the truck is getting good fuel pressure and spark. Mechanic says he knows for sure that my MAF is out(short) and is causing my problems. $250 quoted for parts and labor. Diagnostics work is only 50 bucks so I'm picking up the truck and replacing the MAF myself. Would anyone recommend aftermarket? I could easily go to the local junkyard and get one for about 10 bucks.
 
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by thanny72
Truck left me stranded yesterday so I had to put it in the shop. Got a call today and was informed that the truck is getting good fuel pressure and spark. Mechanic says he knows for sure that my MAF is out(short) and is causing my problems. $250 quoted for parts and labor. Diagnostics work is only 50 bucks so I'm picking up the truck and replacing the MAF myself. Would anyone recommend aftermarket? I could easily go to the local junkyard and get one for about 10 bucks.
That's great news, and not so great news. lol

Glad you know the problem.
 
  #19  
Old 11-29-2012, 03:56 PM
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Did they say if they retrieved any MAP DTC's? It's not impossible, but rare for a MAF sensor to cause a no start. The only DTC's that you retrieved before were EVAP problems, and they definitely will not cause a no start.
 
  #20  
Old 11-29-2012, 04:14 PM
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i don't think its a MAF sensor problem(i have been wrong many times before though), and positive its not a EVAP problem. Im thinking ignition switch, its common for them to be cranky(pun intended)
 


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