1997 ABS sensor on dust shield
#1
1997 ABS sensor on dust shield
I am getting what sounds like friction noises coming from the passenger side wheel. I have just replaced the wheel bearing hub last week and the rotors and pads were just replaced 3 months ago in October and everythingis still in good working order. I was wondering if it might have something to do with the ABS sensor. My ABS sensor is mounted on the dust shield and apears to get its reading from the gear-tooth spline on outer side of the wheel bearing hub. How does the ABS sensor work? If they don't work what are some of the things that might happen? Also, do they work independantly of each other?
Thanks for any suggestions or comments.. They are greatly appreciated.
Thanks for any suggestions or comments.. They are greatly appreciated.
#2
RE: 1997 ABS sensor on dust shield
You probably have a little bend in the dust shield causing the scraping noise. Find out where it's too close and bend it out of the way.
You have 3 ABS sensors, one on each of the front wheels and one on the output shaft of the transmission. The sensors pick up the speed of the wheels and send a signal back to the computer. If the computer sees a different signal from one wheel speed sensor during braking it modulates the brake fluid pressure to whichever wheel nessessary to prevent lock-up.
That's the short (non technical) explanation.
If the wheel speed sensors don't work, you will have normal braking without the anti-lock function.
You have 3 ABS sensors, one on each of the front wheels and one on the output shaft of the transmission. The sensors pick up the speed of the wheels and send a signal back to the computer. If the computer sees a different signal from one wheel speed sensor during braking it modulates the brake fluid pressure to whichever wheel nessessary to prevent lock-up.
That's the short (non technical) explanation.
If the wheel speed sensors don't work, you will have normal braking without the anti-lock function.
#3
RE: 1997 ABS sensor on dust shield
Well, after a closer look at the ABS sensor and dust shield and seeing there was clearance space all around the rotor I decided to lift the Blazer on jack stands and engage the4 wheel drive and put it in gear. It was then apparent that the rubbing and grinding noise was resulting from the CV axle joint on the drivers side. Also, the passenger side front axle was not turningbecause it wasn't engaging in the gear box...
I broughtit to the dealer for an evaluation. WHAM!!! ..The dealer quotes a me a used transfer case and axles installed with new seals, fluids andshop supplies all said and done...$ 1250.00. Then of course they bring to my attention that the drivers door is hanging low and recommends to replace the hinges and pins.... before it rips out for an another additional $160.00. All this after new hub wheel bearings on the passenger side front and rear for $300.00 and a new rebuilt transmission in December for $1800.00.. I can tell you all now, (that I also have a 2003 Chevy Silverado I bought brand new that has it's own issues with unusual repairs) I am not going to buy any more Chevy products....
I broughtit to the dealer for an evaluation. WHAM!!! ..The dealer quotes a me a used transfer case and axles installed with new seals, fluids andshop supplies all said and done...$ 1250.00. Then of course they bring to my attention that the drivers door is hanging low and recommends to replace the hinges and pins.... before it rips out for an another additional $160.00. All this after new hub wheel bearings on the passenger side front and rear for $300.00 and a new rebuilt transmission in December for $1800.00.. I can tell you all now, (that I also have a 2003 Chevy Silverado I bought brand new that has it's own issues with unusual repairs) I am not going to buy any more Chevy products....
#4
RE: 1997 ABS sensor on dust shield
All I can say to that is that I'd be getting a second opinion.
#5
RE: 1997 ABS sensor on dust shield
WOW
Door hing pin set (2 needed) about $12, not that hard to drop the pins out and replace (just make sure you have a buddy to help).
As for the front axle and shafts check http://www.car-parts.comfor a local bone yard in your area that has one.
And can go either new/rebuilt/used on the shafts. Its your choice. http://www.partsamerica.comor http://www.oreillyauto.com
If you did the bearings yourself, its not much more to do the Axle and Shafts.
When you take it to a shop, it can get spendy.
Door hing pin set (2 needed) about $12, not that hard to drop the pins out and replace (just make sure you have a buddy to help).
As for the front axle and shafts check http://www.car-parts.comfor a local bone yard in your area that has one.
And can go either new/rebuilt/used on the shafts. Its your choice. http://www.partsamerica.comor http://www.oreillyauto.com
If you did the bearings yourself, its not much more to do the Axle and Shafts.
When you take it to a shop, it can get spendy.
#6
RE: 1997 ABS sensor on dust shield
Yes, definitely get a second opinion! Sounds like you have a shady dealership ripping you off.
#7
RE: 1997 ABS sensor on dust shield
Unfortunately, I am at the mercy of the dealers service shop. The cost of the work estimate without the work performed I would have hadbeen charged $84.00. Being short on time to try and locate another local repair shop to do it , getting the Blazer to and from,not knowing what the new shop will charge till they see it... My thoughts are how much less can I expect foranother shop to do it? Time and Material...
Used parts found locallyIasume will be close in price.... However, the dealercharges $78.00 per hour flat rate and the local garage mechanic in my little town is $49.00. So, it will bethe $29.00 more per hour for aCertified chevy mechanic. Even if it takes 8 hours to do the work the labor cost difference (less the estimateof $84.00)will be around $150.00. That $150.00 is hardly worth my time and efforts to do anything different than just have the dealer do it, get it done and be over with it. Hopefully after this I will be free from any more major repairs for a long while...
Used parts found locallyIasume will be close in price.... However, the dealercharges $78.00 per hour flat rate and the local garage mechanic in my little town is $49.00. So, it will bethe $29.00 more per hour for aCertified chevy mechanic. Even if it takes 8 hours to do the work the labor cost difference (less the estimateof $84.00)will be around $150.00. That $150.00 is hardly worth my time and efforts to do anything different than just have the dealer do it, get it done and be over with it. Hopefully after this I will be free from any more major repairs for a long while...
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